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That display won’t run a KT controller properly. The bike may have worked, but it would have run very inefficiently because you weren’t able to configure the controller. If you buy a display that is matched to the controller and set it up properly you will see a remarkable increase in...

What is the make and model of the controller? That wiring diagram bears absolutely no resemblance to the wiring on your controller.

Where did you get it from?

A photograph of your display may help. KT does manufacture various LED displays, but none of them match your description of “three colours arranged vertically - green (at the top), orange , and then red at the bottom”. If it indeed is a KT LED display that came with the bike then it must have...

Some motors are easier than others. From the photos you have posted yours looks easy. You will need a freehub or cassette removal tool depending on whether you have a cassette or freehub. They are cheap either online or from Halfords. And then an Allen key to remove the hub screws. It...

Did the motor spin in the dropout?

What has been damaged? The connector or the cable? Either way you can buy a new pair of cables with the same connectors. It’s way cheaper than replacing the motor. And then you can have fun threading the new cable through the axle. Can you share a photo of the damage?

The bit at the end “flicking the brakes” was him doing the bleeding after he pumped up the pads. You can clearly see an air bubble pop out and then he was done. You will also notice that he wound back the pistons so no air could get trapped in the caliper, so only the pipe would have bubbles...

I watched the entire clip. He did a gravity fluid change, which was pretty messy and bled the brakes at the end by pulling the lever a couple of times to let the air out the same way I do. The only thing that was different is that he had a fluid reservoir on top. But he would have achieved to...

I have rummaged about and there has been some work done by Rad owners on this issue, which could solve my problem with battery bar accuracy. They are running 52 volt batteries on KT controllers and have done some tests to conclude that P5 = 25 for best accuracy, so I’m going to try that on my bike.

I think it depends upon your P5 setting. If it’s zero then it measures real time battery voltage, so that may account for the flickering. If you set it to one of the smart mode settings then it may be more stable. I have my P5 = 0 for real time monitoring and I haven’t played around with this...

I think you will find the KT much nicer to use than the Lishui. The CON 63 looks well matched to the SWXK2.

The con 63 is a 7 amp continuous controller with maximum current of 14 amps

Isn’t CON 63 a code that Greenbike kit use for one of the KT controllers they supply? https://www.greenbikekit.com/electric-bike-kit/motor-controller/250w-brushless-e-bike-controller-lcd-display.html

It is unlikely that you pulled the cable from the hub, they are very tight fitting. Check the condition of the motor connector pins to make sure you plugged it in correctly. And if the pins aren’t bent plug it back in and make sure it is seated correctly. There could be arrows on the connector...

I have never needed to use a bleed kit on bicycle hydraulic brakes. There’s not much fluid in there and I’ve always pumped the air out using the lever. I have done this on Tektro, Clarke, Risun and Talaria. None of them needed a bleed kit.

No it isn’t a KT controller. It’s the same controller that Fiido use on some of their bikes, but a Fiido display may not work with your controller because there is no guarantee that the firmware is compatible. https://uk.fiido.com/collections/display

Also make sure the speed limit on the display isn’t interfering while you are testing. You can set it to a maximum of 75km/hr. And you can always set it back to 25km/hr when you have finished testing should you so wish.

You need to match the display to the controller. If you don’t have a KT controller then a KT display won’t work.

Are you doing these tests on pas level 1? You will get more speed on pas level 5 now that you have established the motor isn’t drawing too much power, but keep an eye on the watts when you run up the throttle. 180 watts is ok with the wheel unloaded. You won’t have 86 magnets on your rear...