Onebot s6 LED Display Broken

[Brockley]

Hello knowledgeable ones. I left my Onebot out in the rain and the display got wet and now won’t work. Does anyone know if they can be replaced easily, are the generic ones available on Amazon and eBay suitable?

I know that MiRider is practically the same bike upgraded, would they sell me a suitable LED?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[saneagle]

Hello knowledgeable ones. I left my Onebot out in the rain and the display got wet and now won’t work. Does anyone know if they can be replaced easily, are the generic ones available on Amazon and eBay suitable?

I know that MiRider is practically the same bike upgraded, would they sell me a suitable LED?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The MiRider uses a KT controller and KT LCD. You can't use a KT LCD with any other type of controller. You can replace your controller and LCD for KT ones for about £80, which will improve your bike a lot, and you can then have a legal throttle, like the MiRider. To do that, you might need to solder a couple of wires.

 

[Brockley]

Hello knowledgeable ones. I left my Onebot out in the rain and the display got wet and now won’t work. Does anyone know if they can be replaced easily, are the generic ones available on Amazon and eBay suitable?

I know that MiRider is practically the same bike upgraded, would they sell me a suitable LED?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is the broken display and type of connectors. Any help about where to get a replacement would be most appreciated.

 

[Brockley]

The MiRider uses a KT controller and KT LCD. You can't use a KT LCD with any other type of controller. You can replace your controller and LCD for KT ones for about £80, which will improve your bike a lot, and you can then have a legal throttle, like the MiRider. To do that, you might need to solder a couple of wires.

Thanks for the reply, I’m not really well up on changing wiring to improve performance, but I’ve attached a photo of the LCD. If someone could identify it and tell me where to get a replacement I’d be much obliged.

 

[AGS]

This is your display, but they won’t ship to the UK

T6F LCD display and throttle with Shipping fee

ONEBOT spares no effort to research and develop innovative electric bicycles and accessories for various kinds of people. Since its establishment in 2014, ONEBOT has been committed to making cycling easier and solving travel problems through its design and R&D capabilities.

onebot.bike

 

[Brockley]

This is your display, but they won’t ship to the UK

T6F LCD display and throttle with Shipping fee

ONEBOT spares no effort to research and develop innovative electric bicycles and accessories for various kinds of people. Since its establishment in 2014, ONEBOT has been committed to making cycling easier and solving travel problems through its design and R&D capabilities.

onebot.bike

Thanks for sharing. I’ve seen KT displays on eBay and Amazon all with a five pin plug only, but mine has the five pin as well as a two pin plug. Is the two pin plug necessary to get me going again, or do I need a display with both five and two pin plugs.

 

[AGS]

You need to match the display to the controller. If you don’t have a KT controller then a KT display won’t work.

 

[saneagle]

While you sort out your LCD, you should be able to get your b8ke going by leaving off the ?CD and bridging the orange and red wires. The red wire carries the battery voltage, and when you switch on the LCD, it sends it back down the orange wire to power the controller. With the controller powered by the orange wire, the throttle should work and the pedal assist should work on level one only because you can't change it.

When making the Bridge, be very careful not to touch the other three wires. One is ground and the other two carry data.

The other two wires are to power your lights.

You cannot use a KT LCD with your Onebot controller. It's possible that one of the cheap Chinese LCDs might work, but probably without the lights, though you must make sure that the wires are in the correct sequence in the connector before you connect.

If your LCD has screws in the back, take it apart to dry it out.

 

[Brockley]

You need to match the display to the controller. If you don’t have a KT controller then a KT display won’t work.

Is this a KT controller?

 

[Brockley]

While you sort out your LCD, you should be able to get your b8ke going by leaving off the ?CD and bridging the orange and red wires. The red wire carries the battery voltage, and when you switch on the LCD, it sends it back down the orange wire to power the controller. With the controller powered by the orange wire, the throttle should work and the pedal assist should work on level one only because you can't change it.

When making the Bridge, be very careful not to touch the other three wires. One is ground and the other two carry data.

The other two wires are to power your lights.

You cannot use a KT LCD with your Onebot controller. It's possible that one of the cheap Chinese LCDs might work, but probably without the lights, though you must make sure that the wires are in the correct sequence in the connector before you connect.

If your LCD has screws in the back, take it apart to dry it out.

So the small two pin connector is just for the lights? I’ve seen

While you sort out your LCD, you should be able to get your b8ke going by leaving off the ?CD and bridging the orange and red wires. The red wire carries the battery voltage, and when you switch on the LCD, it sends it back down the orange wire to power the controller. With the controller powered by the orange wire, the throttle should work and the pedal assist should work on level one only because you can't change it.

When making the Bridge, be very careful not to touch the other three wires. One is ground and the other two carry data.

The other two wires are to power your lights.

You cannot use a KT LCD with your Onebot controller. It's possible that one of the cheap Chinese LCDs might work, but probably without the lights, though you must make sure that the wires are in the correct sequence in the connector before you connect.

If your LCD has screws in the back, take it apart to dry it out.

I’ll try to bridge those wires and now I know that the two wire connector is just for the lights I think I’ll try to buy a cheap Chinese LCD that has a five pin connector.

 

[AGS]

Is this a KT controller?

No it isn’t a KT controller. It’s the same controller that Fiido use on some of their bikes, but a Fiido display may not work with your controller because there is no guarantee that the firmware is compatible.

Display

If you’re someone who likes to keep track of their exercise, then you’d probably like to know how many kilometers you did on your electric bike. And while there are apps dedicated to it, they tend to be not as accurate as a display attached directly to your bike. Thankfully, most electric bikes...

uk.fiido.com

 

[saneagle]

So the small two pin connector is just for the lights? I’ve seen


I’ll try to bridge those wires and now I know that the two wire connector is just for the lights I think I’ll try to buy a cheap Chinese LCD that has a five pin connector.

Generic Chinese LCDs can have three different colour wires for the switch wire. Most common is blue, next is orange like yours, and least common is pink. The battery wire is nearly always red, but sometimes brown. The ground wire is always black. Those three wires MUST match (functionally) on each side of the connector, otherwise you will wipe out the LCD.

 

[Brockley]

While you sort out your LCD, you should be able to get your b8ke going by leaving off the ?CD and bridging the orange and red wires. The red wire carries the battery voltage, and when you switch on the LCD, it sends it back down the orange wire to power the controller. With the controller powered by the orange wire, the throttle should work and the pedal assist should work on level one only because you can't change it.

When making the Bridge, be very careful not to touch the other three wires. One is ground and the other two carry data.

The other two wires are to power your lights.

You cannot use a KT LCD with your Onebot controller. It's possible that one of the cheap Chinese LCDs might work, but probably without the lights, though you must make sure that the wires are in the correct sequence in the connector before you connect.

If your LCD has screws in the back, take it apart to dry it out.

bridged the orange and red wires using tin foil in the connector and shielding the other pins with pvc tape. It works with throttle and pedal assist just as you said, but very weak. But hey, you saved the rest of my holiday in flat Holland!

After searching YouTube and Amazon I went on AliExpress and ordered an led that looks identical to the one I’ve removed, but on closer inspection the five pin block connector has slightly different coloured wires and the small block connector only seems to have one wire instead of two. What do you think the chances are of it helping me out?

 

[Brockley]

bridged the orange and red wires using tin foil in the connector and shielding the other pins with pvc tape. It works with throttle and pedal assist just as you said, but very weak. But hey, you saved the rest of my holiday in flat Holland!

After searching YouTube and Amazon I went on AliExpress and ordered an led that looks identical to the one I’ve removed, but on closer inspection the five pin block connector has slightly different coloured wires and the small block connector only seems to have one wire instead of two. What do you think the chances are of it helping me out?

Generic Chinese LCDs can have three different colour wires for the switch wire. Most common is blue, next is orange like yours, and least common is pink. The battery wire is nearly always red, but sometimes brown. The ground wire is always black. Those three wires MUST match (functionally) on each side of the connector, otherwise you will wipe out the LCD.

Sorry didn’t see this before replying, sounds like it will be a bit of a gamble as to whether I’ll blow up the led because the wires could be in a different order in the block connector. Is there any way to check which wire does and join them alternatively to the block connector?

 

[saneagle]

bridged the orange and red wires using tin foil in the connector and shielding the other pins with pvc tape. It works with throttle and pedal assist just as you said, but very weak. But hey, you saved the rest of my holiday in flat Holland!

After searching YouTube and Amazon I went on AliExpress and ordered an led that looks identical to the one I’ve removed, but on closer inspection the five pin block connector has slightly different coloured wires and the small block connector only seems to have one wire instead of two. What do you think the chances are of it helping me out?

It's not a gamble with the wires. The colours should tell you what they do. Look at my previous post about the wire colours. The colours don't matter, but the wires must be functionally correct. As long as the wires are in the correct sequence, there's a 50% chance that it'll work. If the wires are in the wrong sequence, you can pull the pins from the connector and swap them over. For that you need a thin spike to depress the retaining barb while you pull them out. The majority of LCDs have the wires in the same sequence, with the battery wire on one end, ground on the other and the switch wire next to the battery one.

We must assume that there are some software differences because yours has the light switch transistor in the LCD, while as the replacement must have it in the controller and it gets the instruction to switch them on through the data wires.

Even if the software doesn't work, the LCD will work as a switch so that you don't have to bridge those pins.

 

[Brockley]

It's not a gamble with the wires. The colours should tell you what they do. Look at my previous post about the wire colours. The colours don't matter, but the wires must be functionally correct. As long as the wires are in the correct sequence, there's a 50% chance that it'll work. If the wires are in the wrong sequence, you can pull the pins from the connector and swap them over. For that you need a thin spike to depress the retaining barb while you pull them out. The majority of LCDs have the wires in the same sequence, with the battery wire on one end, ground on the other and the switch wire next to the battery one.

We must assume that there are some software differences because yours has the light switch transistor in the LCD, while as the replacement must have it in the controller and it gets the instruction to switch them on through the data wires.

Even if the software doesn't work, the LCD will work as a switch so that you don't have to bridge those pins.

Ok, I went to your previous post and cross referencing photos of my defunct led and the one I’ve ordered, it looks like I’ll need to swap one wire. I’ll keep you posted

 

[Brockley]

As promised here’s my update. Firstly many thanks to AGS for the link to Onebot’s site. I emailed them at service@onebot.bike and eventually got a quote for $30 which I was able to pay through PayPal. They provided a tracking system and the new LED screen arrived this morning.

All back together and working well. The new one is marked up differently to the broken one. See photos - new one on the right.