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This isn’t me, but our riding style is about the same and some of the conditions that I ride in are worse. This is normal after I come back from a ride, so without the bash plate the cooling fins would be completely blocked up with mud.

Yes they are and I was concerned about this when I first fitted mine. But I haven’t had any problems with overheating so far even in really hot weather. I did consider drilling some holes in it for airflow, but I cycle a lot in mud and they would soon get blocked up.

I was fortunate enough to have kept a small length of this after replacing a section of pipe for my soak away. https://www.toolstation.com/underground-pipe-110mm-3m/p15211

Here are a few photos with the bike upside down so you can see it better. My cable also exits at the bottom and the bash guard does a good job of protecting that as well.

There a a few currently for sale on eBay, but they are ridiculously expensive for what they are. Maybe you should think about upgrading your bike with more modern components.

That’s just a section of drain pipe that I cut and bent using a heat gun, then cable tied to the motor with some rubber spacers. The spacers are a pack of pencil erasers from Tesco that also act as shock absorbers. I was concerned that the motor would overheat because it stops airflow, but it’s...

Yes I saw that. It’s nasty, I’m sure you can do better than that.

My mtb had a triple chain set before my BBS conversion so I left the front derailleur in place as a chain guide and removed the cable and adjusted the screws.

Now I have a slimmer battery box I decided to reduce the length of the forks by 150mm. They started out as 83cm forks and they are now 68cm forks. So the bike doesn’t look like a chopper anymore and has a much better turning circle and it sits much better on the side stand. It was a bit toppley...

This one has plenty of lights on it and should suit you. https://dualtron.uk/products/dualtron-x-limited

Best to use it under zip ties rather than over them.

Well in that case many locations in Wales are illegally banning the use of throttles and are 100% wrong. As Wales is in the UK it must abide by UK law, and UK law does not ban the use of throttles on e-bikes.

Possibly an assembly problem and the clutch isn’t disengaging. Error 24 is display dependant, hopefully you have a manual that came with the bike with the error code explanations.

If he contacts the real owner he should be able to supply the key and charger.

There was one of those at the auction where I got the Puch and it sold for £1100 https://www.easyliveauction.com/catalogue/lot/b0f46a5e04e53b770f4817398a7ba667/0af8d24542e81eb9357e7ef448a6646f/classic-vintage-motorcycle-auction-at-haynes-motor-mu-lot-124/

I use hot glue inside my motors. The trouble with high strength glue is it’s too permanent, so if a hall sensor needs changing in the future it’s a real pain and you risk damaging the insulation on the windings trying to get it off.

I made a new slimmer battery box because the first one was too bulky and painted it matt black. And I added a ventilation grill for the controller. I also fitted NTC 10 temperature sensors inside the controller and the motor. The motor came with a KTY 83 but my controller and display can’t...

If it’s brand new, the brakes won’t have been bed in yet. I bed mine in by doing 15 near stops on the front and then 15 on the back. Then let it cool down for 15 minutes and 5 near stops using both front and back brakes, then let it cool down again. That deposits enough pad material on the...

You have to be careful and really need to find out what controller is fitted to your bike. And even then a compatable display may not work properly if the firmware inside the controller has been customised. You can’t really go on the connector wiring either as different displays have the same...

There should be more markings on the outside of the case that show the model code. The printing on the halls pcb suggests it’s a Bafang SWX.