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I think the problem lays within the display if you need to remove the power from the display and reconnect every time in order to power it up. However I don’t think it’s easy to repair as a diy job unless you have enough expertise with electronics. It looks like an expensive display and spare...

This is a recent thread on ES that suggests it’s for brakes, but the thread appears to be non conclusive, so don’t bank on it. You will probably have to open up the controller to be sure and then you can check the throttle wiring at the same time...

A real Stealth Bomber B52 is an Australian e-bike capable of 60mph. They have been around for many years and are very expensive. Stealth also make less powerful and cheaper e-bikes these days and some of them are road legal. Europe has been flooded with much cheaper ebikes called Stealth...

Ooh I just looked at your bike and it’s not a cheap bike and is fully integrated, so bolting on an external controller will not be very elegant. It‘s another prime example of an ebike with built in obsolescence at a premium cost. A lovely looking bike but not very easy to maintain.

I had a similar problem to this once where I could only get it to switch on by either uplugging and reconnecting the display or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. I bought the bike with this known fault and it was a a nasty little Lishui controller and a weird GoodTimes display that...

Yep, the Dutch do like their threaded stems.

Have you tried removing the handlebars and taking the plastic cup off the top to see if there is a nut underneath? That could be a Gazelle bike mechanics special know how. And an adjustable spanner to tighten the nut could be the special tool.

It says if you can’t fix the head set lateral and fore and aft movement yourself you need to take it to a Gazelle dealer and they have the tools and know how to fix it for you. This usually means that it is an awkward sob to repair yourself and you will probably break something if you try.

Have you read section 1.3? If you haven’t, you won’t be happy when you do.

The last paragraph of section 3.1 says when it is adjusted correctly there should be no lateral or fore and aft play.

The photos you posted don’t really show enough. Does your bike have head tube suspension? If so then the manual in the link explains how to adjust it in section 3.1 They couldn’t make it more complicated if they tried. So good luck in trying to adjust this properly...

JST connectors are commonly used on e-bikes and they are very fiddly to crimp...

The OP hasn’t said if he has adjusted any of the advanced settings. He has only mentioned the general settings. It could be limited because the maximum current is set too low or one of the other advanced settings hasn’t been set up properly...

From what I can make out by his phone conversation at the end is that he bought the bike recently that was already converted and was explaining to the fella he bought it from what had happened and asked if he could fix it today. And then when he didn’t get the answer he was looking for, he lost...

Someone has copied my eMaxi, but mine is more reliable.

There are many, so just pick one on eBay that you look the like of. Some of them are even UK compliant.

It’s for Americans. Our roads aren‘t suitable for side cars and our culture doesn’t appreciate them either.

Yeah side cars are cool.

Cooler King is a UK company, but their bikes are themed on motorcycles and made in China. They appeal to me but I don’t think many on here share my enthusiasm for them.

A2B bikes were expensive and German designed. They went out of business when the cheap Chinese bikes flooded the market. The same thing happened to Bionx who made the Smart bike.