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You can run without the display to test the controller. Disconnect it and bridge the blue and red wires to it. That should give normal throttle and levl 1 PAS. You might have to bridge the two data wires to each other. That's the two that aren't blue, red or black. Sometimes, you get a special...

Which bike and battery do you have?

the controller controls the crank speed, not the bike speed. The crank should spin to about 75 rpm. What are you getting? The bike speed depends on which gear you're in

Our council provided a plastic bag for batteries, like AA cells, etc. It might be an idea to have a word with the recycling bin men when they come. They'll almost certainly have a special container for batteries. I can't believe that they'd be able to deal with them when mixed with normal...

These are not lipos. They're low power lithium-ion cells. What happens with model aeroplanes is irrelevant. Sure, you should always be careful not to short them, and puncturing them will make a stink, but it's nothing to panic about. I've had loads of batteries like that. I just remove the...

It doesn't do anything other than give a signal for the speed display. Without a speed display, it has no effect on speed or de-restriction. When that wire isn't connected, the controller gets the speed from the timing hall sensors.

Dist between forks + 622mm + 2 x 2.2" (or whatever tyre size you fit). Less if you let down the tyres.

They're OK prices. Buy one of them. It's better to buy o e that will work rather than a block of recycled 18650s covered in blue shrink-wrap.

P5 doesn't do anything. There's a bit of a quirk with KT battery displays, where they don't respond immediately, but settle down as soon as you start riding the bike. Have you tried it yet?

Quicker to charge the low cell with any old 5v or USB type charger. In older batteries like yours, they sometimes powered the BMS from one cell, so if you didn't use the battery for a long time, that cell went down - typically a cell at the end of the pack. You can use any similar silver fish...

Pouch and prismatic cells are not used anymore. Nearly all cell-packs are 18650s now. There are loads to choose from on Aliexpress and Ebay. Beware of ones that are too cheap. £150 to £200 should be about right. You only have to check for size so that it fits in the case.

It's nothing to be scared of. Pouch cells do that when they're knackered. If they leak, you get a rather stinky sweet sort of smell, but it's harmless. It's not going to blow up or anything like that.

That's the point of using a voltmeter. It'll tell you all you need to know.

Some bikes are easier to de-restrict than others. If that's important, make sure you know how to do it for the specific model you want to buy before you hand over any cash. The NCM Moscow has a special controller that costs an extra £150 if you want the derestricted version, though, if you're...

You won't find it with a continuity test because the contact only breaks down under high current.

That's funny, because when I was out walking my dog, the postman, who never misses a chance to gossip, told me that his next door neighbour's son, was ill, so his mum called the doctor, but the doctor was on holiday and couldn't come. His mum therefore decided to go and get some stuff from Boots...

If it was set to 48v, it would show one or none. Measure that battery voltage whole the display is showing 3 lights, then you have your answer.

There should be an adjuster screw for how tight it locks. If you can't find it inside the fold, please show photos of the mechanism inside the fold. Don't make it so loose that it allows movement when locked.

Please explain "doesn't show full".

The only way to be certain is to attach a voltmeter to the wires so that you can observe what happens to the volts when you take power. If it goes right down, then cuts off, it's a knackered battery. If it just goes off suddenly, probably a connection fault, faulty key switch or bad solder...