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I just looked at that website and his channel. I don't want to seem unkind, but what I saw very poor. I wouldn't recommend anybody here waste there time with it.

You can't use the existing wiring if the light is switched by the controller because the light is switched by a low power transistor, which will blow if you fit a more powerful light. Instead use rechargeable battery lights. You can get some really good ones on Ebay for about£25 with the...

IMHO, this project is just a bit of fun and learning. A much more practical solution is to replace the control system for around £80, which then allows you to get whatever power and speed you want with or without a throttle, and at the same time gets rid of all the unreliable parts in the...

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/bosch-battery-powerpack-frame-400-classic-line-210737

That means that the controller isn't using the speed sensor you fitted. Either you wired it up wrong or you did the settings wrong.

It's probably already derestricter. You'll be lucky to get 15 mph out of it.

You only measure the painted part of your BB. The rest would be chucked. It looks like 68mm to me. Those small bottle batteries are fine, butb lots of different insides, and you don't really know what you're going to get. There are some other types too on Aliexpress that look quite neat. I've...

There is no such thing as a dummies guide. they tried on the Endless-Sphere forum, where there is some good stuff, but most of it is not relevant and misinformation regarding what we do in the UK and Europe. If you're interested and hang around here, you'll soon figure it all out. It's all very...

They're called Dorado batteries. Use Google.

It's very simple. It's a 30% difference in power and torque using the same controller (10S vs 13S). The controller sets a different number of amps in each level, which is the same regardless of voltage. Power = volts x amps. If the amps are the same, power is proportional to volts.

Here's what I have that you can have for the cost of postage if it's any good to you. I wouldn't guarantee the BMS because it was taken from a shagged battery (one cell group at zero volts), which could have had a number of causes.

They fixed the cause of the burnt contacts. I don't know what they did but it seems to be OK now, and, as I said, many bikes use those terminals in their connectors, and they don't burn.

The Mirider is basically the same as the Onebot, which costs around £700. It had/has a big marketing campaign, which is probably why it costs so much. A representative came on the forum and argued that they had special stuff in the Mirider, but what he said didn't really stand up to scrutiny...

It's a shame you're so far away because I have one of those batteries, but I don't want to post it. If you come to Telford, let me know. There was a problem on earlier versions of those bikes, where the connector terminals burned, which caused intermittent contact. One solution was to remove...

It's a standard battery that they put in many bikes. You can get them from lots of suppliers.

Where do you live? What voltage is the battery?

It's not the motor that has the problem. It's either the motor cable or the controller. The first thing to check is all the connections in the motor cable. If you have the standard 9 pin connector, it has to be ALL THE WAY IN to the MARKED line, not just in tight. Also, check any bullet...

It's still all the standard stuff, so nothing to raise any concerns. The only negative point I can see is the gearing. A 14 tooth top gear is too low for an electric bike. It'll be annoying after a while, but £20 to £25 gets you a DNP freewheel, with 11T, which will fix it if it bothers you. The...

If you want more power, get a BBSHD. It's a much stronger motor.

What are you hoping to gain by running at 52v?