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Yes, but they have plastic levers which break very soon after you start using them. The Halfords ones have a metal lever, which doesn't break; however, they have plastic gears inside that eventually wear out. The best are the actual vintage ones, which are all metal and last a lifetime. You can...

It's auto-detect, but there is also some sort of memory effect, so when you first connect, make sure your battery can't be mistaken, like when you connect a nearly flat 48v one, it will probably mistake it for a charged 36v one and some people have had difficulty convincing it otherwise...

The SWX02 is a 250w motor. The torque and output power are determined by the amount of current and voltage you give it. What Bafang or anybody else says about it is meaningless. How much voltage and current you can give it depends to some extent on which speed version you have. A 360v 260 rpm...

The Pendleton has a speed control system, so you get max power at start off regardless of what level your on. Each level has a different speed cut-off and an associated algorithm that reduces power when you get to that speed. That system is OK for very low powered bikes, but terrible if you have...

Sorry, I meant the reverse. The charger shows red while charging until the first cell reaches the top, then it goes green and switches off. I've edited above. Different chargers have different light systems on them, some have one light and some have two. Most of the basic Chinese ones show...

The charger doesn't do any balancing. The battery does it on its own. Imagine 10 buckets each with a small hole drilled in the side an inch from the top. The buckets are all about half full of water, but slightly different levels. A big pipe with a single tap splits into 10 equal smaller sized...

Hub motors are generally more reliable, require less maintenance, are significantly kinder to the drive train, give a more comfortable riding experience (more user-friendly), are cheaper, have lower running costs and are more durable. WIth a crank motor, you have to be in the right gear all the...

Disregard the 9A, It has no meaning. The 18A is how much current the controller will allow. Your battery can supply that, otherwise it would cut off. 18A is what most cheapo batteries can comfortably supply and is more than most. so that's not the reason that the motor feels gutless. IIRC...

For touring, you shouldn't use anything other than a rear hub-motor. All other solutions work. The difference isn't a deal-breaker, but you'll find a rear motor so much nicer. Your bike isn't ideal for conversion. What makes it good won't give you so much advantage when you fit a motor, and can...

The figures I gave are only examples and bear no relation to what you have. You have to look at the labels on the controllers to see what their max current is.

You can charge with the battery switched on, but not with the controller/bike switched on. Bear in mind that some bikes are switched on from the battery, though not so many these days.

If you fit Marathon Plus tyres or equivalent, you won't need a puncture kit. I used to get punctures nearly every ride, but since I fitted them 7 years ago, I haven't had a single puncture despite getting a three inch nail burried two inches into the tyre. There's a phone app called MyRadar...

Some people take everything with them - waterproofs, spare tube, tools, pump, something to drink, etc. Some people like to dress the part - cycling shoes, lycra gear, padded underpants, etc. Some people like to add accessories to their bikes - lights, GPS, lock, sprung seat, pucture-proof...

All you need to do is tie abit of string or bungee elastic to your frame somewhere and tie a hook to the other end, I'm sure you can find a convenien way to leave it tucked out of the way, then, when you want to push, clip the hook on the pedal to stop it from turning. Pedals even go round when...

Two things affect motor power - both in direct proportion. They're volts and amps. By power I mean torque, which is what you feel as power and need to get up hills. So, 48V gives 30% more than 36v and 18A gives 50% more than 12A, and 48v 18A gives 95% more than 36v 12A.

Probably a blown mosfet or two. You'll have to test the controller with a meter to confirm.

I managed to snag a few from a chap called Del on the internet. He said that he didn't have many left, and that was last week, so he might have run out now.

The battery looks like the weak point to me. It'll probably work, but it won't last very long at that sort of current. It's going to cook itself. Heat goes up with the square of the current so at 40A, it'll make 4 times as much heat as at 20A, and they get quite warm at 20A.

Those bikes are no good if you're heavy, have steep hills or are compromised in your ability pedal. They're good for regular cyclist or people that are relatively fit. The battery is very small, so it won't take you far unless you do most of the work. The main problem is the lack of gears...

Brake cut-offs are not a legal requirement. Sellers have some obligations for the bikes they sell regarding how quickly the motor must shut off after stopping pedalling. Many bikes meet that requirement without brake switches.