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THIS? Which version??

Fwiw i used an adjustable wrench (stilson pipe style) and a length of steel tube as a lever extension while using a stud nut and washer to retain the tool in place.. Then i remembered its a reverse thread!!

+1 to what @Nealh says. In addition 2x batteries fitted to a bike will be 2x as attractive to an opportunist thief. the risks of damage to the batteries or worse and the care needed to ensure the batteries are equally charged when connected are all negated at the cost of 30-40 seconds for...

recommended isnt the cheapest.. a like for like replacement for the original; silver box is probably the cheapest option with the highest probability of working ok.. however due to the number of manufacturers that 'customise' controller f/w its a bloody minefield. A KT combo Will Work, even...

your looking at £80-100 for a kt controller display combo but searching ebay/aliexpress would probably turn up a much cheaper matching replacement of the original 24v controller. The problem there is the bikes performance is probably not that stellar with a 24v supply which is why the original...

Common out of factory fit error is to install the motor wheel with the cut/open portion of the axle where the cable exits facing upwards, this will let rain/water into the motor, refit the wheel with the cut portion facing DOWN!!! KT brand controllers are popular, BUT controllers and displays...

The square drive will be 1/2" by the look of it Use any 1/2 " drive tool from a standard socket set ie a ratchet or Tbar.. amazon link as an example.

Google search for a speed hack/crack for your bike and there are lots of vids.. check them out and try backtracking.. I suspect a bored teen may have spotted your bike locked up after seeing such a vid and thought 'lets have a go ' .. as they do.. ( well did?) - I am well out of touch so??

try supplying 4.2v(3.7v) via the sense wires black(-) and cell group 1 wire(+) to power the bms.. Again a bit of a punt.. but a lot easier than messing with full battery voltage

I wouldn't be very confident with success but it might be worth a punt providing the original bms with some power and hooking it upto the controller/display on your bike with its coms connection, Best case scenario your display will show bms errors but the system will rely on the error reporting...

Not seen that specific connector but i agree with the above assessment.

before attempting any controller upgrades check the battery drain capacity, in all likelihood its built to cost with the cheapest battery that can provide just enough power to carry a toddler at its max speed as is. Attempting to drain more power than the battery can supply will in the best...

Once upon a time i cycled from Redbridge to canterbury 'on the pilgrim trail' using the centre pages from a library paperback book and a compass .. OH boy did i get lost a few times..

Yes, but you could just fit a hi power connector too like a waterproof marine grade xt90? an extra power isolation option might be a nice security feature against opportunists.

If I am reading correctly and its a 13-14 yr old bike and battery with only 200 km on the clock that took about an hour to fully charge. Fixing the lock might not be the end of your issues ;( ist things 1st tho.. if a lube fails to get results? Pull the battery and work the lock gently with...

Did you charge the battery on or off the bike? if off the bike the chances are the battery is not quite all the way home and the locking lug is not aligned with its hole correctly. A firm shove with the heel of your palm should sort it.. Its a snug fit by design .. a squirt of lube or wd40...

Cat you can control.

That will depend on your motor, and the controller system it uses, some mid drive manufacturers practice very protectionist policies and install closed systems. Others limit access to spares and parts to authorised dealers only. If as suggested above its similar to the bbs01 then probably...

Hi @Peterrichardsons the link above suggests your bike has a mid drive? if so the controller is frequently embedded within the motor housing and not as exchangeable as those used with hub drives, therefore limiting your display options to only those compatible with your motor/controller. If...

- whatever the root i blamed the pump and replaced it now tyre top ups are a doddle and no loud bangs since.. was real loud tho.. nice.. not sure something like that would get enough use to keep the batteries healthy here..