nut size

billyboya

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I purchased this bottom bracket tool, but dont seem to have a spanner or socket bit to fit in the end. would anyone here know what size spanner or socket male end to fit in end of it

60251
 

guerney

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Do you have one of these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195640752738

Had a similar problem recently with a suspension seatpost, which needed spring tension adjustment via a hexagonal socket at the botton - measured internal diameter as 12mm, which I don't have... so I shoved in the business end of a pair of flat nosed pliers to turn it, fitted perfectly.
 
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billyboya

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Aug 10, 2016
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Do you have one of these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195640752738

Had a similar problem recently with a suspension seatpost, which needed spring tension adjustment via a hexagonal socket at the botton - measured internal diameter as 12mm, which I don't have... so I shoved in the business end of a pair of flat nosed pliers to turn it, fitted perfectly.
actually Yes I have one of those somewhere dam never thought about using a Digital Vernier Caliper

its because I have so many tools you tend to forget what you do have

thanks for help ;)
 
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billyboya

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Aug 10, 2016
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Do you have one of these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195640752738

Had a similar problem recently with a suspension seatpost, which needed spring tension adjustment via a hexagonal socket at the botton - measured internal diameter as 12mm, which I don't have... so I shoved in the business end of a pair of flat nosed pliers to turn it, fitted perfectly.
Hi again I forgot to ask what’s the name of the tool what fits in the female square end it’s 13mm and the nut size is for a 24mm spanner but think it’s best to have a socket bit
 

guerney

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I used an adjustable spanner for that BB tool.
 

billyboya

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I used an adjustable spanner for that BB tool.
ok as just thought maybe a socket to fit that square female end would be better I will check if I have an adjustable spanner I probably have just dam finding things it’s probably right in front of me but can I never find stuff need to sort out my tools lol it’s always the same when you want something takes forever to find it lol
 

thelarkbox

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The square drive will be 1/2" by the look of it

Use any 1/2 " drive tool from a standard socket set ie a ratchet or Tbar..

amazon link as an example.
 
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guerney

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ok as just thought maybe a socket to fit that square female end would be better I will check if I have an adjustable spanner I probably have just dam finding things it’s probably right in front of me but can I never find stuff need to sort out my tools lol it’s always the same when you want something takes forever to find it lol
If holding the tool straight pressing with my hand while turning the adjustable spanner didn't hold the BB tool straight enough, I planned to press a block of wood against it instead to apply more pressure, but that wasn't needed.
 

billyboya

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Well Ive decided to forget about doing the bottom bracket myself, as no way can i remove the chain side cogs. they seem to be on the spindle so tight. I gave up as didnt want to damage the chain cogs. I did try hitting it with a hammer but it wont budge. so I am taking bike to a repair shop. as they will do a better job
 

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billyboya

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The bike shop is bound to have a suitably sized gear puller.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?kw=large%20gear%20puller&toolid=20004
Yeah they should have, But its very hard to find a bike shop to do stuff, as a lot say they dont touch electric bikes even though, its nothing to do with electrc part a lot of bike shops will lose out, as most jobs are to do with non electric. just seems a bit silly to me. I went to 1 bike shop they said did you buy the bike from them, if not they dont touch them.
 

saneagle

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Yeah they should have, But its very hard to find a bike shop to do stuff, as a lot say they dont touch electric bikes even though, its nothing to do with electrc part a lot of bike shops will lose out, as most jobs are to do with non electric. just seems a bit silly to me. I went to 1 bike shop they said did you buy the bike from them, if not they dont touch them.
The bike shop is only going to do what you can do yourself, but they'll charge you for it. This is what to do:
  • screw the centre piece of the tool right back out of the way;
  • screw in the tool as far as it will go with a spanner until it's tight. don't over-tighten it;
  • screw in the centre piece until it's tight;
  • whatever spanner of T-bar you use to turn the tool, put a piece of pipe over it so that you get some decent leverage;
  • push down hard on the pipe or lever to make the tool turn.
These square tapers are never so tight that you can't get them off with the tool. The mistake most people make is screwing in the tool without backing off the centre piece, so it doesn't go far enough in, then, when they try to pull the crank off, the threads strip.

It's the bottom brackets themselves that can be hard to get out, but all you need is enough leverage with a long pipe. Also, you need to use a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB, otherwise it tries to slip out every time you apply enough force.
 
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billyboya

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The bike shop is only going to do what you can do yourself, but they'll charge you for it. This is what to do:
  • screw the centre piece of the tool right back out of the way;
  • screw in the tool as far as it will go with a spanner until it's tight. don't over-tighten it;
  • screw in the centre piece until it's tight;
  • whatever spanner of T-bar you use to turn the tool, put a piece of pipe over it so that you get some decent leverage;
  • push down hard on the pipe or lever to make the tool turn.
These square tapers are never so tight that you can't get them off with the tool. The mistake most people make is screwing in the tool without backing off the centre piece, so it doesn't go far enough in, then, when they try to pull the crank off, the threads strip.

It's the bottom brackets themselves that can be hard to get out, but all you need is enough leverage with a long pipe. Also, you need to use a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB, otherwise it tries to slip out every time you apply enough force.

When you say tool I take it you mean this



Also, you need to use a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB, otherwise it tries to slip out every time you apply enough force.
I am a bit confused with what you said above about a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB where do you fit those then as I am lost now

I may try doing it again
 

saneagle

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When you say tool I take it you mean this





I am a bit confused with what you said above about a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB where do you fit those then as I am lost now

I may try doing it again
In my description, the bit I refer to as the centre piece is the silver bit. If you're unsure, screw it right out before screwing in and tightening the black bit.

When you use the BB tool, it tends to keep falling out, so you can use a bolt to hold it in if your pedal arm is held on with a bolt rather than a nut. Sometimes you can use the pedal arm bolt with a washer, but it depends on the relative lengths of all the parts. The bolt is only to hold the tool in, which leaves you two hands to concentrate on turning it, otherwise you need one hand to hold the tool in while you turn it. All this will make more sense when you try to use the BB tool.
 

billyboya

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In my description, the bit I refer to as the centre piece is the silver bit. If you're unsure, screw it right out before screwing in and tightening the black bit.

When you use the BB tool, it tends to keep falling out, so you can use a bolt to hold it in if your pedal arm is held on with a bolt rather than a nut. Sometimes you can use the pedal arm bolt with a washer, but it depends on the relative lengths of all the parts. The bolt is only to hold the tool in, which leaves you two hands to concentrate on turning it, otherwise you need one hand to hold the tool in while you turn it. All this will make more sense when you try to use the BB tool.

Yeah I understood the 1st bit to make sure that silver part is all way unscrewed. and i think what you man about BB tool is to make sure you use maybe a socket in end to hold it. I think basicly that cog wheel side where chain goes needed a few squirts of WD40 to loosen it more. I wont need to do the BB just yet, as will need to measure the length with a piece of card as you stated above, then will come back here to show you so then get a longer BB
 

thelarkbox

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Fwiw i used an adjustable wrench (stilson pipe style) and a length of steel tube as a lever extension while using a stud nut and washer to retain the tool in place.. Then i remembered its a reverse thread!!
 

saneagle

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Fwiw i used an adjustable wrench (stilson pipe style) and a length of steel tube as a lever extension while using a stud nut and washer to retain the tool in place.. Then i remembered its a reverse thread!!
The way to remember is that the spanner/bar always goes forward, no matter which side you're on, assuming that your bike is sitting on the ground.
 

sjpt

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These square tapers are never so tight that you can't get them off with the tool. The mistake most people make is screwing in the tool without backing off the centre piece, so it doesn't go far enough in, then, when they try to pull the crank off, the threads strip.
Another mistake is forgetting to take out the crank bolt before using the tool.
(I've made both those mistakes in my time.)
 

billyboya

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The way to remember is that the spanner/bar always goes forward, no matter which side you're on, assuming that your bike is sitting on the ground.
No the bike will be upside down when i do it. so what you saying then when unscrewing the BB nuts. both bb nuts are anticlockwise as my front wheel will be to my right when i do non chain side. and the chain side front wheel will be to my left. or have i got that completely wrong.