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Yose support staff are not native english speakers and rely on translation s/w But do respond promptly with real help/advice ( time-zones taken into consideration) in my limited experience of a single quickly resolved issue. After checking the above ( plugs fully inserted, pas orientation..)...

Google informs me just how proprietary your sys is after i looked up the s/w sys you referenced.. So a 'simple' controller swap isnt on the table.. And my basic understanding of generic systems may not be fully applicable. Yeah roadside diagnosis isnt ideal. But if i understand correctly. 1)...

?? Hang on a sec... not a qualified engineer here but i dabble (take things apart).. and in my very limited experience with uart/serial usb coms on state machines and soc pcb's systems, when supplied with logic level power they invariably boot up.. Is your usb cable supplying the 500ma 5v...

Is this credible?? passes my ill-informed sniff test, but?

Check the display for any model or id info for a google search including 'manual .pdf' to get help decoding the error state, Due to the 1 battery led only i would guess its a low voltage error without any other info, Check the battery voltage, and the connections in its cradle, some styles...

just a thought, but could you tac or glue a paintball to an oxford lollypop extremity? it may leave a reminder to keep away next time without the damage my initial thought (claw hammer) would inflict.. ;)

Frustrating.. Any similarities between fail conditions?? does the bike cut out after X miles or when ridding up a particular hill? #1 eliminate the possibility of battery coms, check battery terminals for voltage levels. While most systems ive read and heard about will shut off the battery...

If in a wheel plank on the floor to protect the axle end and stand on it. The above pictured tool could be modded a couple of ways, 1) source longer connecting stamped plates, or 2) drill new pivot holes in the arms.. I would go for #1 and try using a few 100mm steel L plates i have...

There are loads of bikes out there and models change from year to year, a few pics of the bike, battery, sensors and handlebar display will clear up a lot. One common problem is battery cases/cradles warp a lil with time and perhaps a less than perfect fit and bumpy rd is dislodging the battery...

Dont know your bike/system, but it sounds more 'bolt on' with a hub motor if the controller is housed in the battery base? Pics will help the ignorant like me.. Assuming the new battery and wheel motor are in fine condition and its oem control system issues giving you the headache.. the grin...

Not the best bit tho!!

Woosh and wisper both contribute in here and sell bikes with quality parts and very good reps. Most off the shelf branded bikes will come with batteries and control systems designed to NOT be compatible with generic replacements. Custom built in battery formats, and 'smart' batteries that need...

tape to close off all but the single useful opening on a multi size tool will save hours, I only twigged on the last fit of my wheel build ;)

welcome and enjoy..

An angle grinder or even a dremil with a black cutting disk can cut both cable and sleeve cleanly with ease. a wrap of tape round cable helps, and a if you need to rescue a frayed cable end a hot burning torch can fry off wayward strands. (mapp/butate?) if using blunt cutting tools a thin awl...

Phew!! sanity check.. wellies are still a tenner (plus change) @ screwfix!!

The 'built in' look of many e-bikes will frequently bite the buyers in the wallet when it comes to battery replacement when only one style will fit and is either no longer available or costs 2,3x or more than a comparative battery using top quality cells.

A link to the seller and item or a photo of the cell ID info usually found printed on its exterior to enable identifying the cells and their specifications would be a big help. the cell id printed on the wraps is partially visible in one of your pics above.. The set of cells produced in china...

how many wires in the brake sensor connections?? if only 2x the 2.5v could be the NOT grounded floating voltage?? if the controller label has (Brake:Low) on it it would indicate the brake cut off is grounded to invoke. I doubt the 24v controller mosfets would be tolerant of 48v if the higher...

Fwiw i conducted a VERY BRIEF pre fit motor test by holding the wheel axle in a bench vice clamping tight on the two flat surfaces to secure the wheel. Without securing the wheel axle the hub will just spin within the wheel twisting all the wires until something is either pulled or more likely...