Yose conversion kit, help needed please.

[Johnx26]

I purchased from Yose a 24" front wheel kit for my Scout tricycle, Generally the kit is ok and components are reasonable. However I seem to be getting no help from Alice at their service centre and after a message :"May I trouble you to send a video to the following address? I need our engineers to confirm. thank you. " realised this is a bot not, yam yam from Walsall The motor works fine on the thumb lever, however I have no odometer function working for speed or distance on the C500 display. I have replaced the Juliet pas sensor which is the 12 magnet integratal type with no result. This means there is no auto operation of the motor so I now suspect the Lishui controller may have a fault. It seems to function on other circuits. Any advice please, would one of the £10 e bike test boxes help?

 

[Cadence]

I have had two previous faults with Yose kits. In both instances I was asked for a video and duly obliged. I had quick replies back and in one instance a replacement throttle was sent within 3 days FOC.
Their service centre is in China so you need to take language and time difference into account. Their staff use English names so I don't think "Alice" is a Bot. I have dealt with "Joey" in the past and he has been very prompt with requested information. Their warehouse in Walsall has no service staff and is just a UK stock location.

 

[saneagle]

I purchased from Yose a 24" front wheel kit for my Scout tricycle, Generally the kit is ok and components are reasonable. However I seem to be getting no help from Alice at their service centre and after a message :"May I trouble you to send a video to the following address? I need our engineers to confirm. thank you. " realised this is a bot not, yam yam from Walsall The motor works fine on the thumb lever, however I have no odometer function working for speed or distance on the C500 display. I have replaced the Juliet pas sensor which is the 12 magnet integratal type with no result. This means there is no auto operation of the motor so I now suspect the Lishui controller may have a fault. It seems to function on other circuits. Any advice please, would one of the £10 e bike test boxes help?

Does your pedal assist work when you pedal backwards?
Do you have a pedal assist level selected that isn't zero?
Can you change the levels up and down?
Is your motor connector in ALL THE WAY TO THE MARKED LINE?

An ebike tester won't work unless you have the block type connectors on your controller rather than the sealed type. Even then, it doesn't test the speed sensor nor the pedal sensor, though it has the 5v supply for the throttle, so you can wire either sensor to that if you're able to adapt it.

 

[Johnx26]

I have had two previous faults with Yose kits. In both instances I was asked for a video and duly obliged. I had quick replies back and in one instance a replacement throttle was sent within 3 days FOC.
Their service centre is in China so you need to take language and time difference into account. Their staff use English names so I don't think "Alice" is a Bot. I have dealt with "Joey" in the past and he has been very prompt with requested information. Their warehouse in Walsall has no service staff and is just a UK stock location.

Thanks, thats a great help. It takes an age to get the heavy trike off the deck, so I had better get a video made showing the display for Alice.

 

[Johnx26]

Does your pedal assist work when you pedal backwards?
Do you have a pedal assist level selected that isn't zero?
Can you change the levels up and down?
Is your motor connector in ALL THE WAY TO THE MARKED LINE?

An ebike tester won't work unless you have the block type connectors on your controller rather than the sealed type. Even then, it doesn't test the speed sensor nor the pedal sensor, though it has the 5v supply for the throttle, so you can wire either sensor to that if you're able to adapt it.

Thanks for that, I didn't think the tester would help Pedal settings go up and down, 1-5, no zero. I will try pedaling backwards, all connections are good.

 

[Nealh]

The kits work out of the bos ( as to speak), as the hub works via thumb lever actuation then your problem is likely a simple one.
Speed indication is via internal hub Hall sensor/magnet combo where fitted , one should have a white Hall wire or ninth wire from the hub motor to the controller connection.
Double check as mentioned that the motor julet connection is 100% fully pushed together (there is a raised marked line on the motor side of the male connector) , this line needs to be hard abutted to the female julet connector.

PAS may be a simple issue , correct orientation of the disc is required as the magnets have a N & S pole , if the PAS actuates with back pedal then one has to remove the disc and rotate the face for correct magnet pole to actuate forward drive.

 

[thelarkbox]

Yose support staff are not native english speakers and rely on translation s/w But do respond promptly with real help/advice ( time-zones taken into consideration) in my limited experience of a single quickly resolved issue.

After checking the above ( plugs fully inserted, pas orientation..) include shots of both in the vid for yose support too..

fwiw a year plus on and im still Very pleased with my yose conversion.. Im sure you will be too once your issue is resolved.

 

[Johnx26]

Thanks guys for all the help. I did a lot of checks but still am not too clear on pas orientation and can only do about half a back pedal. I set up again today with front wheel up and the back drive wheel raised. I am getting closer to full operation. Speed did show up on occasion but not consistent and not when videoing. I will take it out for a longer run next, fingers crossed.

 

[thelarkbox]

If an all in one sensor

And your bikes crank axle is a shade wider in diameter than the expected 17mm the sensor can 'catch' and turn until the cable is pulled taught, this can result in a very inconsistent motor engagement..
(the problem i had..

if a 2 piece with a separate magnet disk, try flipping the disk so the opposite face is on the sensor side.

 

[Johnx26]

If an all in one sensor

And your bikes crank axle is a shade wider in diameter than the expected 17mm the sensor can 'catch' and turn until the cable is pulled taught, this can result in a very inconsistent motor engagement..
(the problem i had..

if a 2 piece with a separate magnet disk, try flipping the disk so the opposite face is on the sensor side.

It is an integral sensor as in your picture, and I can see it is turning correctly.
I have been watching several you tube features which seem to suggest the odometer display comes from magnets in the motor hub itself rather than the pas sensor. Maybe I need to be investigating there. From my first Yose trike rides the motor kicked in automatically when needed as it does on my two wheeler, simply no odometer display from the Yose motor.

 

[Nealh]

Those 12 pole LHS all in sensors can be problamatic, one has to make sure sensor fits firmly on the BB SQ taper axle shaft and is a very secure tight fit . There has to be a gap between sensor outer face and the pedal crank arm .

We always recomend 8 o 10 pole PAS sensors which give no issues.

 

[thelarkbox]

You probably have a bit of a frustrating delay over the w/end with the support from yose, If you have the patience, skill, and suitable tools to connect probe/clips to the fragile connecting pins in the julet waterproof connector its fairly simple to test the pas sensor with a 5v power supply (usb powerbank?) and a multimeter.

pinout pic from this ad page

controller position and style prohibits 'easy' access to the controller pcb and the pas sensor input when supplied with power from the battery..

So probably best advice atm imho would be to sit tight and let the support procedure progress. If as it seems you have been supplied with a faulty element in your kit bundle im fairly confident once they have identified the component a replacement will be dispatched.

 

[Johnx26]

You probably have a bit of a frustrating delay over the w/end with the support from yose, If you have the patience, skill, and suitable tools to connect probe/clips to the fragile connecting pins in the julet waterproof connector its fairly simple to test the pas sensor with a 5v power supply (usb powerbank?) and a multimeter.

pinout pic from this ad page

controller position and style prohibits 'easy' access to the controller pcb and the pas sensor input when supplied with power from the battery..

So probably best advice atm imho would be to sit tight and let the support procedure progress. If as it seems you have been supplied with a faulty element in your kit bundle im fairly confident once they have identified the component a replacement will be dispatched.

Thanks for that. I am not going to rush things. The pas cut in is very similar to my 2 wheeler so I am beginning to suspect the problem is elsewhere. The cumbersome Scout trike is a folder, so I have been double checking that the motor cable is not being compromised. I can get the motor to run on the throttle lever but not fast enough to record speed (i am testing with trike vertical in my van) Hopefully I can get out for a decent test ride in the morning.

 

[Cadence]

This may not be related to your problem, but make sure setting4.2.1 is set to 1 and not 6 (1 magnet only in the motor). It is very easy to inadvertently change this when you enter the advanced settings if you don't hold both "set" and "down" at exactly the same time. I had speed readings way too low until I discovered this.

 

[Johnx26]

This may not be related to your problem, but make sure setting4.2.1 is set to 1 and not 6 (1 magnet only in the motor). It is very easy to inadvertently change this when you enter the advanced settings if you don't hold both "set" and "down" at exactly the same time. I had speed readings way too low until I discovered this.

Good point, thanks. It must be a couple of months when I did the set up. I will go through them again.

 

[Johnx26]

Success!!!!!!
Many thanks Cadence, that was indeed the problem, the advanced settings. I had set it to 6, resetting to 1 and also the next window to rnb and the odometer works! I had a nice ride around the Calke Tramway Trail this morning including a quarter mile on the road. Quite a milestone and over winter I can work on moving the downtube type battery currently across the rear seat stays to a better position where it doesn't catch my heels. Many thanks for all the help.