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Blue threadlocker might be better suited, just in case you ever need to adjust it in the future. Red will probably be a bit too permanent o_O

Maybe it's a bit loose in the thread hole and works its way out with use. If it can be totally removed, take it out, put some medium strength thread locker on it, then screw back in to desired hand position. Allow time for thread locker to set.

Don't quote me, but I think Bafang won't be doing that anytime soon. At least with the BBS series anyway. Fitting a BBS unit to a bike isn't one size fits all. It requires some degree of user programmability to match gearing to the unit. I certainly would have not fitted a BBS02, if it wasn't...

Add a torque arm for a bit of extra safety!

Samsung 25R's are good cells!

I think so. As Nealh mentioned, those PF cells will sag fairly badly under high current draw. I personally would not run a BBSHD with those cells. They work, but are likely to have a short life span. I learnt that mistake with my first BBS02 battery pack. It had Samsung 29E cells, which didn't...

They are still configurable using the programming software. The reason the 'B' version can't fit the BBS01 or BBS02 motor, is that a few years ago, Bafang changed the design of the controller casing.

Are you actually using a throttle, coz I would have thought with the start and end values being the same, the throttle wouldn't work?

'Keep Current' at 10% on the PAS page, will be killing the power once the bike is going. Not great for hill climbing, but if the terrain is totally flat, then good for battery economy.

Depends on how it's programmed. There's certain settings in the firmware that can certainly affect performance. Without scrutinizing the controller parameters, it would be difficult to say exactly why it's performing like that.

The problem is, that ideally you need to tighten the first nut to take out the play in the thrust bearings, then tighten the second nut to stop the first one from loosening. It's difficult to lock down the second nut, without overtightning the first nut and crushing the bearings. That's why I...

I use right angled needle nose pliers and thread locker.

Mmmmm, after doing a bit more research, I found this. Kinda puts me off, as it's inevitable that I'll get caught in a rain shower with the typical British weather :rolleyes:

I would like to switch from my usual dry lube to dip waxing the chain. Is anyone using, or have used, dip waxed chains? Which wax is recommended and does it really keep the crud off the chain for longer?

No idea, probably don't even sell them anymore, it's an 8 year old thread o_O

Either tyre is great for your type of riding, but I personally found the GT 365's to be a bit grippier on the greasy surfaces. Neither tyre will provide ultimate grip in very muddy conditions, but they do cope admirably. You'll notice a bigger difference between the two as the weather gets...

I've used those tyres before and I can highly recommend them. Top notch puncture protection! I now use the Marathon GT 365, which are better suited to my riding conditions. So maybe take a look at those too.

I agree, but I think the problem is that you can buy the pre-filled official Slime tubes, like mine, then are led into a false sense of security that they will be awesome :(

As much as I've raved about the combination of Slime inner tubes and Schwalbe Marathon tyres over the years, for a great anti-puncture combo. I'm sorry to say that, due to a horrible experience today, I will no longer be using Slime inner tubes. Instead I'll be sticking with a normal tube and...

How did you manage to bend the pins? The Higo connectors are pretty fool proof and I can't see how the pins would bend by connecting or disconnecting.