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Out of interest, are you using a throttle or PAS only?

I'm on 25 amps at mo. Have tried lower values, but I notice the drop in performance. Not to say you will notice much difference between 22 and 25 though. Depends on how the bike is used I suppose. I like the extra torque for powering over rough and undulating ground.

My bad, sorry :(

I might be wrong, as I don't use the walk assist that often. But I think the walk assist mode runs the chainring at a set speed. So, theoretically you could drop into a lower gear to slow the walk speed. Anyone willing to test this theory, as I'm not using my bike this weekend.

Welcome to Soundwave's world. No offence Soundwave :p

If the thread is damaged, as Peter says, a replacement axle shaft is an option. You can buy just the axle, but as you mentioned you are a novice, a complete axle/gear assembly may be the way to go. Replacing just the axle can be a PITA. You can buy from Green Bike Kit, but may find UK vendors...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-torque-wrench-1-2-x-18/6879v https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-1-2-drive-hex-bit-socket-rail-6-pieces/5207v Might seem a little expensive, but worth every penny in my opinion. You can use the torque wrench on your bike, as well as a car.

I would highly recommend buying a torque wrench and hex socket set. I had problems with loose crank arms when I was tightening by guesswork. Now I use a torque wrench to tighten to 40 N-m and have never had a problem since.

The app doesn't control the charge cut-off level, but EM3EV did originally offer a charger with a 90% cut-off switch. Dunno if these chargers are still available. I never charge the battery when I'm out of the house, so I check the app every now and again, so to stop it at the 90 -95% level...

@djneils98 I've used Eclipse a few times and they are good. Nice to buy from a UK based company. Also, not sure if it comes included in their kits, but you'll need an installation tool. This locks the motor to the bottom bracket properly, otherwise the motor units work loose due to the torque...

To be honest, the difference will be negligible. You'd get much greater results by using a programming cable to boost power.

The internal nylon gear has a clutch too, so it disengages the motor from the chainring when you pedal without power. So basically, any pedaling resistance comes from the large final drive cog, the smaller pinion cog and of course your bike's drivetrain. My BBS02 final drive is lubricated with...

Mine does that on the BBS02, but it's due to the fact that my feet aren't on the pedals and the clutch/axle has a tiny bit of stickiness. Enough to turn the pedals and bang ankles when walking, but not enough to turn pedals when riding and feet are on the pedals. I do sometimes use this to my...

A Most mid drives by their inherent design, allow the motor to drive the chainring without spinning the pedals. As Nealh quite rightly mentions, it would be dangerous if they didn't.

I tried one of those open jaw spanners when I first fitted my kit. The trouble is, with the version I got anyway, is that it's too thick where the jaw joins the handle. This meant it could only be used it certain positions to tighten the lockring. A right pain in the arse. Nowadays, I use one...

Clutch and freewheel. Don't worry, your shins are safe :)

You probably twist the throttle to full, which exerts a massive amount of torque at standstill.

Check that the bottom bracket lockrings are tight, otherwise the motor will shift about and bang on the bike frame. The motor unit naturally wants to twist under power, so those lockrings need to be tight. Also, the fixing bracket that attaches to the motor unit, needs to have the side with the...

Ignoring the banging noises, which I assume is just camera banging about, and concentrating on the ticking. Sounds normal to me. If you just use PAS and pedal at the same speed as the chainring, then the noise should disappear. As I mentioned before, it's probably just the final drive clutch...

There is an internal one way clutch, loctated within the final drive cog/axle assembly. This prevents the pedals from being mechanically attached to the motor, whilst the motor is spinning. This would be dangerous, as the pedals would spin when the motor is on and potentially cause rider injury...