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Just a tip, if you plan to buy a can of the spray. Don't spray it on the area you want to cover, it goes everywhere. Just spray the stuff into the can lid and apply with a quarter or half inch paint brush.

Have used ACF-50 for years on my electric bikes and cars. Awesome stuff for keeping rust at bay, but admittedly never used it on electronic components. I do believe it's electrically inert (does that sound correct?), so should be safe to spray on circuit boards etc.

Like you, I gave up extra sugar a while back and I try to eat meals that have nutritional value and not empty calories. In my case, I was fed up of just feeling blurgh all the time and felt I needed to combat the effects of old age. The surprising thing I found, was how super crap I felt for...

BMW E30 M3 on eBay A mate of mine had one of these back in the day, not sure if it was a Sport Evolution though. I do remember it being rather nippy and cornered like it was on rails. Seems like they've held their value quite well o_O That lottery win can't come soon enough :D

I can't see it myself. The DIY mid motor market is just too lucrative for Bafang to throw it all away. I can see them dropping down to one DIY model though. Maybe offering just the BBSHD in the future, still with user programmable UART protocols.

I think the likes of the DIY BBS01, BBS02 and BBSHD are safe for now, as Bafang would shoot themselves in the foot if they tried to control which batteries you could use with them. Also, these models need a degree of user programming, as they need to be tweaked to suit different donor bikes. As...

I don't know if this would be useful to anyone who owns the Bafang models in the description, or if it actually does any more than the simpler programming cable already does. But I spotted this on eBay and thought I'd post the link, as it may be something a forum member could use. Bafang BESST...

Wow, I think you just blew my mind o_O

I've done mine the other way round. Set 5 PAS levels with different speeds on each one and max current on all. It means I can crawl along on PAS 1 and have full current for torque. I guess that by having the speed set to 100 and PAS levels limiting current, it regulates speed because there's...

Agreed that they work out of the box, but I found I needed to do a lot of tweaking to get the bike right. The programming cable and software is a must if you want to perfect the BBS series. If it wasn't highly programmable, then I would have had to go for something else.

I've dabbled with the programming software and IMHO, I think the PAS sensor just acts like an on/off switch. Adjusting certain program parameters can give the bike the feel of a normal bike, but with assistance. Or it can be programmed to act like a moped. It'll never be able to feel totally...

I'm no expert, but I would say the power consumption on trickle is negligible.

I can't say for sure, but if it's anything like the BBS02, remove the circlip, pull off the PAS disc, unscrew the screws, pull out axle to reveal clutch thingy. When unscrewing the retaining screws, use a good quality screwdriver, as they are quite tight and you don't want to damage the screw...

I just used some bearing grease that I had lying around. No need to pack it on, just smear some on with your finger around the outside edge.

Totally agree with you there Bonzo Banana. The BBS02 and BBSHD drives punish the drivetrain, due to the massive amounts of torque they transmit, so a strong chain is paramount. Less chain wear over time preserves the chainring and cassette for longer too. I swear by KMC chains and use their...

If everything else is working ok, I would just add a bit of grease to the large final drive cog. My BBS02 tends to throw it off after a few thousand miles and becomes noisier. BTW, when I put some grease on my clutch pawls, there wasn't an ounce of lube on there. This makes me think, either...

Probably the pawls in the final drive one way clutch are sticking. I just did mine today, not coz it was sticking, but because it had become really noisy. Stripped down, put a smattering of grease on it and now it is whisper quiet. Mine's a BBS02, so internally slightly different, but just...

One of the better programming cables: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282891248569?hash=item41dda1e3b9:g:THEAAOSwJHdg6YmY Guide to programming: https://electricbike-blog.com/2015/06/26/a-hackers-guide-to-programming-the-bbs02/

Also, check there is no muck collected around that cog. Mine tends to skip a bit, if there's crud on the cog. You'll be surprised how much collects there :oops:

I don't know if other members have experienced the same problem as me, when using the less viscous greases on the final drive. It would always disappear from the large and smaller cog area, behind the final drive assembly where the PAS disc and shaft is located. It wouldn't last particularly...