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sjpt might have been referring to just the standard touring Marathon Plus, which is more of a commuter tyre. The ones I used were the MTB version: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-plus-mtb The good thing with the tread design, is that you can inflate the tyres to a higher...

Take a look at the Schwalbe Marathon GT 365 tyres. I originally ran Landcruisers, changed to Marathon Plus and now run the GT 365's. By far, the GT 365's are the best of the bunch, for traction on damp surfaces and all out rainy weather. They are really good on both tarmac and loose surfaces...

This is a picture of my final drive. I packed the grease in there and fitted the plastic cover back on. You'll probably find yours has little to no grease in there.

You could be correct in your suspicions. If it really was so hot that you couldn't leave your hand on the casing, then that has overheated the unit badly. The easiest thing to do is grease up the final drive gear, just in case it's a lack of grease. If it's not that, then I would suspect the...

Hi, firstly, welcome to the forum. Secondly, could you elaborate more on which motor you have, mid drive or hub. Model identification will help. Also, any other info can help forum members identify your problem. Battery type, capacity etc, display model number.

Whilst we're on the subject of Bafang BBS gear, can I just point you to a thread which shows other useful BBS stuff: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/after-market-bbsxx-crank-drive-gear.32691/

If I were you, I wouldn't risk messing about with .el files (if that's how you flashed the controller). I would be taking screenshots, manually inputting figures and 'write' flashing into the Bafang 3 page software. Time consuming, but safer!

Think it'll be a case of using the normal Bafang sofware, next time you have the bike, to browse the settings and see if anything is amiss.

Yeah, weird one, coz even if the update had reflashed the throttle setting to the lowest speed limit, that is still 15 km/h. There's no actual settings on the user Bafang software to enable a push mode. Be interesting to see if you figure this one out. Please post back if/when you do ;)

Can you post a screenshot of the 'throttle' page from the software?

Sorry, my bad :confused:

I can see how the relationship puts less stress on the actual chainring teeth in a bigger diameter chainring, but I can't get my head around how it would put less stress on the motor. I would have thought the motor internals would have to produce more torque with the 46T, than the 42T, to...

I am definitely not questioning your expertise, or trying to cause an argument, but I assumed the following. Because a 46T chainring is larger in diameter, then to create the same amount of torque at the same point on the outer tooth edge as the 42T, the motor has to work harder. Hence the...

I might be wrong, but it's my understanding that the improved chainline benefits only apply to the 42T (Bling Ring), as it wraps around the motor housing. A spider and chainring could create chainline problems. As for quality of the Bling Ring, I have reprogrammed my BBS02's controller, which...

You'll probably find the Bling Ring will improve your chainline somewhat. Plus, the 42T will put less stress on the BBS01's internal gears, and give you more torque for hillclimbing through the gears. I run one on my BBS02 and wouldn't fit a kit without one!

Anyone question :rolleyes: Is there a direct correlation between the battery current limit and the motor phase current. I.e. is it directly proportional to the value set in the' battery current limit' box, on the controller software page? I'm specifically referring to the Bafang BBSxx...

Ok, so controllers still require these shunt resistors to function. I guess that the controllers I remember from years ago, had a shunt resistor that was a bit more obvious, i.e. a piece of coat hanger looking wire between two circuit board tracks. I think I'm starting to get my head around...

I hope this isn't going too far off topic, but how does a programmable controller adjust the current limiting. I can understand the old school controllers, which use shunts, but not so much software based? Humour me :D

Upgraded fets.

I'm sure this is what had happened for some time before the controller gave out. After installing the replacement controller and reprogramming to exactly the same configs as my previous one, except the max current which I dropped to 20 amps, I took it for a ride. It's far more lively than...