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I use Clark’s M4 on my MTB and I think they are very good. They don’t stick or fade at all and have good enough modulation for my needs.

On a normal 4 wire system the pedal sensor will have two hall sensors and the position of them relative to each other means there is a phase shift between the pulses on the blue and green wires that the controller interrogates and does its magic to operate the motor. You aren’t seeing any...

It’s probably easier to steal the whole bike than just the battery.

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Turn the pedal very slowly. There are a bunch of magnets on the pedal sensor and every time a magnet passes the hall sensor it should pulse between 0v to around 4v. Erratically sounds like you are moving the pedal too fast.

I don’t think putting silicon on the end of the connectors is a good idea either. They will stop the pins from self aligning when the two connectors are snapped together. The pins should have a little movement so they can make proper contact.

Are you sure you have plugged the 4 pin jst connector in the right way around and not forced it in upside down? It’s what you refer to as the block connector in the red circle.

Here is another on a Tektro hydraulic brake. This magnet has a hole so it can also be screwed in place if I drill and tap the lever. It’s all just hot glued at the moment. The kits come with sticky pads for the sensors and magnets, but if you don’t get them in the right place first time around...

Here is one that I’m currently working on for a cable brake set up, but it‘s the same for hydraulic brakes. In this case I made a small clamp for the sensor so it’s less likely to come loose. The magnets are just hot glued at the moment, so I can get the position right. The biggest issue is...

Yes you can but you will need to glue sensors and magnets in place. You can use hot glue for this but sometimes the magnets will disappear. A high strength adhesive is a more permanent solution, but more difficult to remove if you need to move the magnets, so it’s more important to get them in...

I always pull on the brake lever when tightening the two correct screws. This centres the caliper around the disc so the pads won’t rub.

On my MTB I found them a pain and disconnected them. On my Greaser I have one on the front brake and find it useful. On my Puch Maxi they will be absolutely essential, because I need brake lights and electronic braking.

I have the same problem.

Ok I will start a build thread on Speed Pedelecs when I’m in a better position to post something useful. It will be a month or two though, so don’t hold your breath. I’m currently debating with myself whether to use acrylic paint instead of cellulose. I haven’t sprayed acrylic before.

There is a lot of work involved. I have fabricated most of it and tested it, but I’m not ready to post anything yet. It’s a bit like Saneagles secret build. These things take ages to plan and build from scratch. I‘m currently painting stuff, but it’s not the best time of the year to lay down...

Interesting that a couple of Talaria’s and Surrons are being auctioned off at the direction of the Police. So it looks like they aren’t crushing everything. https://www.raw2k.co.uk/motorcycle-auctions These will probably get seized again and re-auctioned.

All of this malarky is the reason I decided to build an electric moped. I don’t want to ride at only 15mph, but I also want to ride legally.

18mm plywood is an ideal material for a e-bike build. I’m also using copious amounts of the stuff for my Maxi. Oh and some 5.5mm and a bit of 3.6mm as well.

My MTB has 8 gears and I use 3 of them, my Greaser has 7 gears and I use 1 of them and my Puch Maxi is going to lose the chain drive altogether.

Interesting that you put 9 speed cassette on your crank motors. I run a BBSHD and only use 3rd, 5th and 7th gear. The 11 tooth 8th gear tends to bog it down.