Search results

Have you tried fitting it on the chain side? The manual says the controller will work with a 12 magnet pas, but people have had issues.

C1 changes the pas direction. If your display is set to 0, or 1 or 2, change it to 5 or 6 or 7 and vice versa. 0 and 5 are usually the highest settings 2 and 7 are usually the standard settings 1 and 6 are usually the middle settings

I will build the battery and I will be using decent cells from Fogstar. And I’m thinking about using Vruzend cell holders, but undecided yet. It depends how much room I have when I build the battery box. It will be trapezoid shaped to fill the frame space, with a dummy fuel tank on top to house...

I‘m going to treat it to a QS205 V3 3T hub motor with a custom swing arm, coupled to a 100A Sabvoton controller, running at 7.5 kW. It’s gonna be mega.

All of the same stuff is going on my Puch Maxi when I get around to converting it. It’s gonna have a big motor though and a huge battery.

I tried making one from a milk carton. Then went to Halfords and bought this instead. Now I can use the Halfords one as a template. https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/mudguards/halfords-quick-fit-front-mudguard-534336.html?stockInventory=undefined

Mine. It’s waterproof. Wuxing parts are good quality. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364272889999 Must use relays though, otherwise the wiring could become overloaded. I use this for lights, indicators and brake light. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255804229862 I have 36v to 72v horn and I have...

Here you go. They even work as hazard warning lights.

These are the indicators, 12v 4W halogen bulbs. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385668156448 And this is the 8W flasher unit...

This will do the job if you can find somewhere to put it. https://torquetech.co.uk/collections/dc-dc-converters/products/dc-36v-48v-60v-72v-12v-10a-weatherproof-voltage-converter-electric-vehicle?variant=10154891935791

Lucky escape.

Looks like bad news. I have read that people overloading the lighting circuit only blow up the output resistor on controllers that have a piggy backed lighting pcb. But yours looks like it’s more terminal.

The dc to dc converter needs to be run directly off the battery. I fitted a double pole marine switch, so the controller and dc to dc converter don’t drain the battery when the bike isn’t being used. I also fitted an inline fuse on the output of the converter to protect it in case of a short...

No it’s an early frame (2015), so you could choose to use either bottom bracket. Newer bikes now come with only one bottom bracket. https://michaelblast.co.uk/product-category/greaser-250w/

Which KT controller is it and do you have a link to the manual? 500mA seems an awful lot from a KT controller.

My KT controller only has the ability to supply 70mA safely on the lights output, it is a most peculiar circuit and looks like an afterthought. This is enough to run one light. But I wouldn’t risk running a pair from it. There is a 51 ohm resistor on the output that will blow if too much...

I dunno what it is. I just found a pile of parts in the garage, bolted them all together and ended up with this.

My indicators.

Engwe M20 with 2 batteries would be my choice, although not legal. It’s cheap and cheerful and easy to repair. Plenty of new ones for sale on eBay for around £1300.

It will probably get stolen if you leave it locked up at the train station all day.