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So what’s he going to do with the bike, send it back or sell it on eBay?

He was pushing along an X26 which is clearly advertised as 1000 watts, so I don’t understand what point he was making. As far as I’m aware it’s not illegal to sell a 1000 watt e-bike in the uk. It’s only illegal to ride it on public roads.

Does Engwe claim all of their bikes are uk legal? They have a variety of offerings. https://engwe-bikes-uk.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhbWHr4nghAMVmpFQBh1B1wqpEAAYASAAEgK68fD_BwE So I don’t think that it is anything that trading standards are going to get involved with. I have no...

It has a 3 pin connector, so it only has one hall sensor.

I think I know why your motor is running badly. Looking closely at this photo, the windings look cooked. See just below the pcb where the wires come out. Some of the windings are black with what looks like blobs of solder on top. If the insulation has turned black, then it no longer insulates...

Have you tested the speed hall sensor with a magnet to see if it still works? If it’s decoupling capacitor has blown then the hall sensor may also be damaged. Many motors don’t even come with decoupling capacitors on the hall board. Also C2 is probably the same value as C1, because it does...

Then you need to check to make sure the pas is giving the correct output signals to the controller using a multimeter. When you slowly turn the pedals the pas output should pulse between 0 and 5 volts every time a magnet passes the sensor. If the magnets are too far away from the sensor then...

Have you tried setting P3 = 0 and C1 = 0. Or you could try peddling backwards to see if pas kicks in. If that doesn’t work you will need to look at how you have installed the pas to see if you have installed it correctly.

I don’t think you have done the hall test properly. You need to slowly turn the rotor around the stator and see if the voltage switches between 4.2v and 0v on 3, 4 and 9. The halls should switch when a magnet passes by. Some halls are bipolar so they will stay switched until they see an...

Someone on Moped Army has kindly done a makeover on it for me to improve its looks.

Yeah, it rides very well. I’m pleased that the battery hasn’t ruined the CoG. It’s a heavy bugger though. Now weighs 75Kg, which is about the same weight as a Honda SS50. The turning circle is a bit of a joke, because I have fitted chopper forks but that doesn’t seem to affect the ride because...

Here is the moped outside parked next to the Greaser and Lotus. And here are a few photos of the moped parked by the river with the registration plate removed.

I made a bottom mount and a battery box that will house a 72V, 150A, 50AH battery. The birds nest wiring isn’t as scary as it looks and I labelled every cable to make it easy to connect up properly. The cockpit is pretty full, left to right: 1. Talaria rear hydraulic brake assembly 2...

Here is the auxiliary control panel for head light, tail light, brake light and indicators. It’s just a simple 72V to 12V converter and a bunch of relays. And this is the MQ CON 72100 Sabvoton controller with a 125A dc circuit breaker. It also has an alarm/immobiliser that works well. It...

2.75” x 19” rear tyre is the biggest that I could get to fit on this frame and swing arm. I also bolted on a SRAM 203mm brake disk. The swing arm didn’t have a caliper mount so I needed to make one using 5mm steel plate. I also made some 1.2mm shims to take up the slack for the axle. The swing...

Here is a new EBR 83cm front fork assembly compared to the original 53cm forks and a new pair of MKX 360mm shock absorbers compared to the 300mm originals. The long forks mean a 10cm extended front brake cable is needed. I also have an additional stabiliser, because the mudguard stabiliser is...

Hi all, I have had some requests to post a build thread, so I would like to share my build with you. It is based on a 1984 Puch Maxi S that I bought from a motorcycle auction in boxes with a registration document so it will be road legal. These mopeds are becoming difficult to find now...

C2 looks like it is on the under side of the circuit board. And as Saneagle said, it is for cleaning up the speed signal hall sensor. C1 does the same job for the three motor hall sensors. You can easily do a hall test now that you have opened up the motor.

How about swapping the blue and green wires over in the connector to see if the blue hall works that way around? If not then it will point towards a broken hall in the pas sensor.

From the photo, it looks to me like there is a slither of wire that is shorting blue to green inside the pas sensor. That could be a problem.