Hi all , i have just been out to the shed to get the bike ready for the start of commuting back and fore to work , while on the bike servicing stand i switche dit all on and turne dthe padal , everything worke dfone , went back to it a few minutes later tried again but no assist , battery is full display poweres up and works as should but no assist when pedals are turned , it is a lishui lsw06 controller , and ideas where i could buy a new one or what controller to buy which is the same size as it fits inside the frame , bike is an apache matta E7 2021, Thanks in advance
New controller required
- Thread starter pricer592
- Start date
How can a block of connectors come apart? Was that before or after you tested it running?
What you're saying doesn't really make sense. is there more to the story that you're not telling us?
Whats at each end of the connectors that came apart? if caught and snagged the sensor may have been dislodged?
So, let's see if I have this right?
You were in the shed testing the bike and it was working.
You went away, then came back and a 'block of connectors' had come apart and the bike wasn't working.
Even though you've put the block of connectors back together the bike is still not working.
I have several questions,
What caused the block of connectors to come apart?
How do you know you have reconnected them correctly?
Has there been any magic smoke released or is there a smell of burning/roasted electronics?
Have you tried disconnecting the brake switches?
Have you tried disconnecting the throttle?
Why do you assume it's the controller that's faulty?
You were in the shed testing the bike and it was working.
You went away, then came back and a 'block of connectors' had come apart and the bike wasn't working.
Even though you've put the block of connectors back together the bike is still not working.
I have several questions,
What caused the block of connectors to come apart?
How do you know you have reconnected them correctly?
Has there been any magic smoke released or is there a smell of burning/roasted electronics?
Have you tried disconnecting the brake switches?
Have you tried disconnecting the throttle?
Why do you assume it's the controller that's faulty?
1 block Connector was separated , (may have caught a cable not sure ) only 1 othe connector that it would fit
No smoke and No smell of Burning
No brake switches or throttle on this bike
Assume it’s the controller as the lcd is working and battery is full , no unusual
Noises from hub
No smoke and No smell of Burning
No brake switches or throttle on this bike
Assume it’s the controller as the lcd is working and battery is full , no unusual
Noises from hub
Controllers are extremely hard to break. The only normal ways to do it are by connecting the battery the wrong way round, holding the motor still while you make the controller give power or physically connect a wire with battery voltage on it to something that shouldn't.
You're not helping us at all - no pictures and no details. It makes me think that there's something you're not telling us.
Let's dig some more.
No brake sensors or throttle - OK, so that rules them out.
Unfortunately the name and number of the bike means nothing. What is needed is a picture of the display, picture/details of the controller and a picture of the whole bike.
What is the voltage measurement of the battery fully charged?
That block connector you show, it just came apart did it, or did the wires pull out?
Lots of questions I know, but forensic fault finding at distance is particularly tricky. We are reliant on what you tell us you see and we have to try to rule out supposition and assumption.
No brake sensors or throttle - OK, so that rules them out.
Unfortunately the name and number of the bike means nothing. What is needed is a picture of the display, picture/details of the controller and a picture of the whole bike.
What is the voltage measurement of the battery fully charged?
That block connector you show, it just came apart did it, or did the wires pull out?
Lots of questions I know, but forensic fault finding at distance is particularly tricky. We are reliant on what you tell us you see and we have to try to rule out supposition and assumption.
with no brake sensors or throttle fitted that only leaves the pas sensor to connect with 3 wires.
if snagged (see above) check and perhaps post pics of your pas sensor, has the magnet ring moved?
if snagged (see above) check and perhaps post pics of your pas sensor, has the magnet ring moved?
Pictures attached for info
Battery voltage at present is 41.3v
And the connector was disconnected no pulled out wires
Attachments
A very strange occurence to happen so something obviously has happend in a very short time space.
A clear pic of the controller with all of the wire connectors laid out please.
Carry out a simple test on your bike stand , the bike needs no power. Simply turn the motor wheel C/W , does it turn and freewheel easily without hardly any resistance ?
If resistance is felt disconnect the motor /controller phases , does the motor wheel now freewheel easily ?
If the answer is yes then either a controller mosfet have suddenly failed or there is a phase connection fault.
The PAS is an itegrated V12l type so it really can't go wrong unless it has been knocked or the wiring damaged.
What type of connector does the PAS have moulded or block type where one can see the wires colours ?
A clear pic of the controller with all of the wire connectors laid out please.
Carry out a simple test on your bike stand , the bike needs no power. Simply turn the motor wheel C/W , does it turn and freewheel easily without hardly any resistance ?
If resistance is felt disconnect the motor /controller phases , does the motor wheel now freewheel easily ?
If the answer is yes then either a controller mosfet have suddenly failed or there is a phase connection fault.
The PAS is an itegrated V12l type so it really can't go wrong unless it has been knocked or the wiring damaged.
What type of connector does the PAS have moulded or block type where one can see the wires colours ?
In the pic the connector looks correct, however one can see one end has silicone to hold the wires tight and the the not so. Diligence would say to check that the end with no silicone , make sure none of the pins have backed out of the connector and all are pushed fully in and connecting securely with the opposite pin out.
Disconnect the connector and make sure none are bent or have snapped off ?
Just to make it clear, you have turn the wheel BACKWARDS for that test.
There's something weird going on. The connector has 4 wires, but the display shows speed and has an on/off button, which would normally require 5 wires. The wires are normally red, black, blue, yellow and green. The photo shows blue missing on one side and yellow on the other. More details are required for an explanation of that.
Double check the three phase bullet connectors , it mght be possible that one has been tugged and not giving a correct connection. Bullets are knoe to be troublesome at times , it is also worth gently crimping the female side very slightly to ensure a nice snug tight connection with the male side.
Blue to yellow?
If that had normal wiring, the controller wouldn't switch on, but he said walk assist works.
When walk assist works, the problem is between the pedal sensor, the controller and the controller settings. That's why I think there's more to the story, though the pedal sensor doesn't look in good shape. Is that a connector for a 4-wire pedal sensor? I've seen that before on a three wire controller, where one wire wasn't connected internally.
The first thing I'd do is test the pedal sensor signal on its connector, which is always the place to start when walk assist works but not pedal assist.