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I thought all Radrunners had 750w Bafang G060 motors that are labelled differently for different markets.

Superb use for the bike.

Does it really matter which colours you use so long as you get the right connections to the controller? The fella in this video made a new harness, but if you want red, black, blue, yellow and green wires you can always buy a new harness, or maybe thread in some 6 core alarm cable To replace...

That one will definitely not work. It has cyc specific firmware.

Well if they only draw 3.32mA then you can mount 150 of them on the front of your bike.

Interesting that you measured 12 volts. The Bafang workbook specifications on all their mid drive motors says 6 volts, 3 watts, so 500 mA max. https://www.bafang-e.com/Uploaded/Labels/202307070823093077.pdf

Probably best to stick with the lights that were supplied with the bike then. Upgraded lights may make it go kaboom.

Good effort, but you need to be careful that the additional load of the rear light doesn’t overload the light output from the controller. Some e-bike controllers are notorious for blowing their lighting circuits by adding additional lights. But you may have got way with it in your case. Also I...

Are you going to mount the motor on a telescopic fork? And if so what kind of dropout does it have?

I think you should understand the advantages and disadvantages of front wheel versus rear wheel drive before making your decision.

I can’t tell from the photos what controller this kit is using, but many controllers are dual voltage ie 36/48 volt.

Woosh are similar to Kirby. They will both supply you with a full kit from the UK. Both of them are regular posters on here and have a good reputation.

UK suppliers import everything from China. You have to pay their mark up, but they have done all of the leg work for you and you get warranty that means something to lessen your risk. Also they keep stock so delivery is quicker.

Woosh kits are similarly priced. https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits If you want to save money you can buy all of the parts from China. Delivery will be longer and you will need to understand what you are ordering and how to assemble the thing properly. Here is a link to Topbike kit where a few...

Those Kirby front wheel kits are a great alternative to the Swytch kit for a fuss free quick installation. Also if you have hydraulic brakes you can’t use the supplied brake levers with the motor cut off switches. It’s debatable if you need them anyway at 250 watts, but some people find them...

This photo shows the rubbing on the casing. The wire on the right has rubbed through to the core in one place.

D is labelled S on the pcb for the speed hall sensor, it’s not a transistor. A, B and C are the motor hall sensor outputs. They are the important ones to check.

The solder joints on that pcb have been reworked since it left the factory because all of the flux would have been cleaned off during manufacturing. I can see several potential issues from the photos apart from C2, which still looks in one piece. But it may have been overheated when it was...

Don’t buy an expensive e-bike if you are going to leave it at the station because it won’t be there when you get back.

Yes I see now. Some pas have 2 hall sensors with one wire, so the controller can tell if you are peddling backwards.