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I have to say that I am fond of old english bikes. They seem to last forever. Below are pictures of my Claud Butler 'odyssey'. I am not sure of the age, possibly mid 90s. It came originally with 27 inch wheels but is now fitted with 700c wheels. I did have problems with rear rim wear, especially...

I have looked and measured the effect of this in detail for my own case. (using bathroom scales and wide books as spacers). My total weight rider + bike = 105Kg. On level ground, front=40Kg, rear = 65Kg. At 1 in 10 or 10%, front=52, rear= 53Kg. (4.25 inch rise at 42 inch wheelbase approx) At...

Its the deceleration that causes the major weight transfer from the back to the front during braking. But if you use your brakes to just control your steady speed going down a hill, there is no deceleration and hence no weight transfer (other than that caused by the tilt downwards/angle also...

You could try flushing out the faulty blue gear clutch with a light 3 in 1 type oil to see if it works again and to see if grease is the problem.

I wonder would you be better going easy on the grease, especially around the small blue gear needle bearing type clutch as well as possibly the larger sprag clutch bearing. Just a thought. I have 4000Km on mine, Turbo all the time with throttle. The motor has never been opened or greased.

Just some theory and ballpark figures. Assuming you and your bike total weigh 100kg, you are talking a potential mechanical energy figure of about 33Wh or perhaps about 20-25Wh electrical if we are allowed to assume 70 to 80% motor/controller efficiency. If you come down that hill in five...

The controller is rated at 7 amps but will carry a maximum of 15 Amps which is common enough for 250W rated motors. I think its fairly usual to 'rate' the controllers at about half the maximum current, e.g. My 22Amp (max) controller is rated at 11 amps, my 20A max is rated at 10A etc.

There is a good reason for this advice. I have converted about 10 bike so far and in many cases, some modification to the frames/rerouting of cables etc were necessary that I would not like to be doing with a brand new bike. For example, the Carrera Vengeance I converted (rear hub motor) had...

Where the smaller wires going into the axle are damaged but the three larger phase wires appear OK, is going sensor-less an option rather than changing the cable? I ask this because I have a small direct drive (himo C20) motor with badly frayed cable.

The penalties are not that high (although scooters can be confiscated) so I suspect many will continue using what they already have e.g Exceeding the maximum design speed €50, Exceeding the maximum continuous rated power of the electric motor, or combination of electric motors €50, Exceeding the...

On the bikes I am familiar with (Pendleton, KT controller, TSDZ2, YOSE ), the walk assist was rather limited, about 80w max I think and it cuts out when under pressure of say 45 degree banks. The most satisfactory solution for me is the fully enabled throttle which works well as a walk assist...

I agree but when they come new out of the shop with the cable facing up, what do you do?

Its not unusual to see the cable facing up on front motor wheels e.g Halfords budget bike as below. It does look more tidy imo (although mine faces down)

You need a long cable as it runs from the top of the high head tube down to the bottom bracket and then back up the extra seat tube cavity and then out to the rear rack. Any extra slack can be curled up at the rear rack stays. Measure it as it looks awful if the cable is not long enough.

This has happened to me with TSDZ2 . In my case, the VLCD show 99 Km/hr for a very short while and the Km clock up quickly as if I was doing hundreds of Km/hr. I think in my case, the wheel magnet alignment is the problem. I specifically bought the mid drive so I could take off the two wheels...

This remind me of the traditional idea of the 'Dead Mans Handle' fitted to trains etc. I think lawnmowers since the 80's has to have similar setup that cuts of engine although some people have a loop of wire to tie them back. Back to the bike, think of someone getting their fingers caught in the...

This is something I played around with a bit. Some observations/comments. I notice many of the older hybrids seem to have lower bottom bracket heights to begin with. MTBs on the other hand are often over an inch higher. One of the great advantages of disk brakes is that you can relatively easily...

A quick and wild guess/possibility but I am not familiar with that motor, is that there is some problem/difference with speed sensor wire or magnet (should be fourth hall sensor /usually one magnet fitted to sidecover?)

The difference between a nominal 27.5 inch wheel rim (584mm) and a nominal 26 inch wheel rim (559 mm) is only an inch (25mm) in diameter or a half inch on the radius. So I think you will get away with fitting the 26 inch wheel, particularly on the rear with disc brakes. Here is what I would do...

Hi. I have a mxus xf15R (rear freewheel) and they are a little noisy I think by design. They use a 5:1 straight cut planetary gears which I think are by design noisy compared to helical gears. Other than that, its a good motor. There are other complaints on line about this if you google 'mxus...