What a disaster, I was very near the test drive but had a puncture, I decided to replace the inturtube as it was old,in removing the rear motor I must of pulled the cable in the hub as now its showing an error 03 on the lcd3 display,can't believe it,so what should I do? Repair it or buy a 750w rear hub??
Hub motor identification
- Thread starter okmate
- Start date
It is unlikely that you pulled the cable from the hub, they are very tight fitting.
Check the condition of the motor connector pins to make sure you plugged it in correctly. And if the pins aren’t bent plug it back in and make sure it is seated correctly. There could be arrows on the connector showing the correct orientation and a line to show it’s plugged all of the way in. Then check the other end of the cable to make sure the halls plug is seating correctly.
If it is still showing error 03 after you have made sure the connections are good then you need to do some diagnostics using a multimeter to check the hall sensors are still working properly.
If you have managed to blow a hall sensor then they are easy and cheap to replace.
This is how to test your hall sensors:
Is the front motor working properly?
Check the condition of the motor connector pins to make sure you plugged it in correctly. And if the pins aren’t bent plug it back in and make sure it is seated correctly. There could be arrows on the connector showing the correct orientation and a line to show it’s plugged all of the way in. Then check the other end of the cable to make sure the halls plug is seating correctly.
If it is still showing error 03 after you have made sure the connections are good then you need to do some diagnostics using a multimeter to check the hall sensors are still working properly.
If you have managed to blow a hall sensor then they are easy and cheap to replace.
This is how to test your hall sensors:
Is the front motor working properly?
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What has been damaged? The connector or the cable?
Either way you can buy a new pair of cables with the same connectors. It’s way cheaper than replacing the motor.
And then you can have fun threading the new cable through the axle.
Can you share a photo of the damage?
Either way you can buy a new pair of cables with the same connectors. It’s way cheaper than replacing the motor.
And then you can have fun threading the new cable through the axle.
Can you share a photo of the damage?
It'd very difficult to repair the motor cable. I've done it a couple of times, but I don't usually both now. The problem is to get the new cable through the axle. It has to turn a right angle on the inner end, so you can't just push it through. You need to find some way of pulling or teasing it upwards this'll make more sense when you try it. Once you get it though, it's just a case of cutting the wires the correvt length and soldering them.
Do you need any particular tools to undo the motor? Can you purchase the cable in the UK?
Some motors are easier than others. From the photos you have posted yours looks easy.
You will need a freehub or cassette removal tool depending on whether you have a cassette or freehub. They are cheap either online or from Halfords.
And then an Allen key to remove the hub screws. It shouldn’t have really strong magnets so you should be able to remove the rotor without using a hub puller.
Replacement motor cables are readily available on line, but as Saneagle said, it’s quite difficult to thread the new cable through the axle, so that will need some patience.
There are plenty of on line videos showing people struggling to replace the cable.
You will need a freehub or cassette removal tool depending on whether you have a cassette or freehub. They are cheap either online or from Halfords.
And then an Allen key to remove the hub screws. It shouldn’t have really strong magnets so you should be able to remove the rotor without using a hub puller.
Replacement motor cables are readily available on line, but as Saneagle said, it’s quite difficult to thread the new cable through the axle, so that will need some patience.
There are plenty of on line videos showing people struggling to replace the cable.
Where the smaller wires going into the axle are damaged but the three larger phase wires appear OK, is going sensor-less an option rather than changing the cable? I ask this because I have a small direct drive (himo C20) motor with badly frayed cable.
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Lube the cable outer and the inner shaft with a very slippery almost friction free lube, the best lube will likely be in your fridge . Simple spread or butter will aid in pulling the cable through.
Budget bike from Halfrauds, say no more.
Probably assembled by a youth on the schools work experience who knew no better.
On the subject of motors, and forgive me if this isn’t the right place to ask , but ’m looking to replace my existing yosepower front hub, 26v, 36w, 26” rim Juliet connector with a hub of the same specs that I’ve found on Amazon and eBay.
My layman question is, is there any guarantee this will be compatible with the existing e-bike kit the original hub came with?
I could just take the hub from the existing wheel to power the quadcycle I am building, utilising a traditional trike back axle but I intend fitting the wheel onto a bike once my balance issues are sorted, whole idea of building the quadcycle In the 1st place.
Please make any electrical replies as simple as possible as mechanically I’m fairly competent but not so with electronics, hence I’m looking a simple hub swap over if possible.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
My layman question is, is there any guarantee this will be compatible with the existing e-bike kit the original hub came with?
I could just take the hub from the existing wheel to power the quadcycle I am building, utilising a traditional trike back axle but I intend fitting the wheel onto a bike once my balance issues are sorted, whole idea of building the quadcycle In the 1st place.
Please make any electrical replies as simple as possible as mechanically I’m fairly competent but not so with electronics, hence I’m looking a simple hub swap over if possible.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
Just be mindful some hubs have speed and hall sensors fitted others just hall sensors and some are sensorless, If not explicitly stated the number of connecting wires is a good indicator,
9 wires = 3xphase wires +5v ,ground(to supply sensors with power) , 3x hall sensor outputs and 1 x speed sensor output
8 wires would indicate no speed sensor, and 3 wires no sensors at all
sensorless hubs will have just the 3 phase wires to connect and will need a controller capable of driving a sensorless motor.
So just match up the number of connections and it should be plain sailing..
9 wires = 3xphase wires +5v ,ground(to supply sensors with power) , 3x hall sensor outputs and 1 x speed sensor output
8 wires would indicate no speed sensor, and 3 wires no sensors at all
sensorless hubs will have just the 3 phase wires to connect and will need a controller capable of driving a sensorless motor.
So just match up the number of connections and it should be plain sailing..
Nice explanation. You're a fast learner. I'd add jus one thing. You get the same 9-pin connector whether there's a speed sensor or not. You can only see the speed wire inside the motor or by measuring the output. Most motors come with the cable. If there are block connectors at the controller end, you can see whether the white wire is present or not on the 6-pin block connector.Just be mindful some hubs have speed and hall sensors fitted others just hall sensors and some are sensorless, If not explicitly stated the number of connecting wires is a good indicator,
9 wires = 3xphase wires +5v ,ground(to supply sensors with power) , 3x hall sensor outputs and 1 x speed sensor output
8 wires would indicate no speed sensor, and 3 wires no sensors at all
sensorless hubs will have just the 3 phase wires to connect and will need a controller capable of driving a sensorless motor.
So just match up the number of connections and it should be plain sailing..
Well it's coming along nicely, I've been out for a ride and she glides down the road really impressed, one problem I have is chain alignment, no matter how I set the gears it's not perfect, I can see from above due to the rear motor the rear cog alignment to the front is out,maybe I could fix this with a wider bottom bracket, what's your thoughts?
Attachments
In case you don't know, you can work both motors from one throttle and one pedal sensor. Connect one controller to them normally, then splice into the signal wires and run just those to the second controller, leaving the blacks and reds disconnected. That works if you have one battery for both controllers. If you have two separate batteries, you have to tie the grounds together for it to work
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