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Heres a pic of the battery...excuse the polarity issue with my makeshift tap...poor form I know... http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/u561/Planemo1/20170209_200540_zpsa5ukfn7w.jpg

Difficult to say re weight, I wouldn't say I could notice much difference in either but then my wifes battery is in an aluminium case - it kind of slides into the rear rack like a casette. The bike itself is a generic (cheap) full suss with the kit added to it. I think the kit originally came...

Oh!? I only went on what the sticker said on the battery casing - Li-ion battery - EM-3610M - 36v 10AH. The fact it uses the same spec charger as my OD one - 36v 2ah made me think the cells were still the usual voltage. I have never checked voltages on this battery - never had to. It's simply...

OK thanks have just changed it to .2a and will do the same for the other 4 cells. It's taken around 350mah to get cell 6 to 3.39v, will see how it goes...

As as note, I have only just realised that this battery is Li-Ion with the flat, foil wrapped cells like a mobile phone, not the 18650 type cell. Don't know if that makes any difference with the problem I have, just thought I would mention it.

Ah thanks for the ribbon explanation Neal, I saw your post after I did my last. I had already gone direct to the PCB at the end of the pack of 3 batteries in that bank and it is charging just cell 6 now. Although the stock charger runs at 2a, I am only using .5a on the IMAX just to be careful...

Everything after the 1.7v cell seems to be out as well according to the figures: Cell 7: 2.6v Cell 8: 3.3v Cell 9: 3.1v Cell 10: 3.3v I am going to bring them all up to 3.8/3.9v as per the first 5 cells, then plug in the stock charger and see what happens....wish me luck!

OK have found two points accross which I find 1.7v. Going to give it a go with the IMAX, although clearly the cell may well be beyond saving :(

OK battery apart and stripped down. All looks OK. I can get to the ribbon plug, I get: 3.8v 7.6v 11.4v 15.2v 19.1v 20.8v! 23.4v 26.7v 29.8v 32.3v Looks like that one cell might be the problem? Worth trying to put some charge in it with my IMAX? Only problem is I'm not sure where to tap the +...

Thanks Neal, I was worried that this would be the only option. I am in the process of pulling the pack apart as I type, time is not on my side with this. All wiring looks OK so far, I do have an IMAX type charger which I use for my RC stuff so I would possibly have the option of using it to try...

Hi, yes I have tried it both ways, lots of times! I know what you mean though, sometimes the charger wont trip into charge mode depending on the order in which things are connected but unfortunately it's not having it no matter what I do :(

Gents, Im in a bit of a pickle, we had planned to go away for a family cycling holiday on Saturday but the Wifes battery is not charging! This will be a problem as she uses her ebike due to a knee injury. Her bike has not been used for a few months due to weather and when I have gone to charge...

Thought I would also give one of these new lights a go. I already had a Bangood light which uses the same battery pack but the light unit is a bit bigger. It threw out an awful lot of light as well, but as my son needed a light I thought I would order the 'new best one', see which I preferred...

I just bought 2 land cruiser plus' from CR, came today. £12.50 each and free postage!

D8veh, thanks for your help with this, very kind. I would agree with you, I think we can rule out the battery and PAS. I didnt think about the LCD panel having to be manually turned back on if it suffered a power interruption and I can confirm that I have never had to do this. In fact the panel...

Yes, perfect. I actually cleaned up the socket on the controller the other day with switch cleaner as its design does tend to store dust and dirt if using the bike without a battery (as I do sometimes). Its spotless and all the male and female pins on the controller and battery are in excellent...

Ok I have a minor issue with my OD kit which has been happening for some time now. I have not posted anything about it previously as I have been trying to get some good feedback to assist with diagnosis but I have not managed to get very far with this. Every now and then, and only ever when on...

I would say 100mm to 150mm will be too much of a jump for the frame geometry to deal with. The resultant change can sometimes ruin handling. Around 20mm jimp is OK though. Quite a few people fit 140mm forks to replace 120mm. For info, I recently bought some used 120mm 26" straight steerer Reba...

Dont forget that 'cycling' navigation isnt available in Google maps whilst offline, even if you have downloaded maps. Its a bit of a pain to be honest. You have to use the 'driving' option which tries to put you on dual carriageways and allsorts. Its the main reason I have considered buying a...

The Genius 910 is a cracking bike, and it may be that the chainstay pivot being above the crank line is what makes it deal with bob so well. ACF50 is brilliant, used to use it religiously all over the engine compartment of my jetski in saltwater rivers. Nothing else works as well to...