Air suspension fork recommendations

danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,394
723
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk
I'm looking to replace a siezed coil spring fork on my h/t MTB and fancy a decent upgrade. My knowledge on suspension forks is pretty limited though. Are there any bargains to look out for? My requirements are:

26" wheel
Straight 1 1/8 inch steerer
Air sprung
Lock out (not remote)
Around 120mm travel

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
 

danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,394
723
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk
Thanks.

I was looking at the Reba previously and apparently the service interval is lots longer than the Fox, so I'm swaying towards that at present.

The price of decent forks is shocking and it probably makes financial sense to buy another bike. As a 2 year work in progress, the current MTB is setup just how I like it, so I'd hate to start again, so to speak.

What's your thought on used shocks vs new?
 

soundwave

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 23, 2015
16,918
6,516
used forks are easy enough to service as it is just seals and some fox oil is all you need but mine are fine after over 2 years of use.

my m8s rear shock has just failed so needs all new seals put in it as now so far gone will hardly keep any air in it at all now.

it lasted 6 years tho ;)

 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I've bought a few sets of used air forks. Never had a problem with any of them. Rear air shox are worse: Eventually they start leaking. Maybe the higher pressure has something to do with it.
 

danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,394
723
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk
Cheers guys, that's the decision made then. I'm now on the lookout for a used 26" Reba with min 200mm straight steerer. Nothing on ebay at present, but I'll keep my eyes peeled.
 

soundwave

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 23, 2015
16,918
6,516
you could but remember it will lift the handle bars higher with more travel, just look at dh bikes.

 
  • Informative
Reactions: VictoryV

Planemo

Pedelecer
Jun 30, 2015
201
81
I would say 100mm to 150mm will be too much of a jump for the frame geometry to deal with. The resultant change can sometimes ruin handling. Around 20mm jimp is OK though. Quite a few people fit 140mm forks to replace 120mm.

For info, I recently bought some used 120mm 26" straight steerer Reba RL Dual Airs. They are in excellent condition and the seller said they had recently been serviced. On fitting, I found they felt harsh on small bumps so investigated further. It transpires they have far more stiction that I am happy with for what was quite an expensive fork when new. They even have more stiction than my outgoing (and very old) Marzocchi EXR Comps which were only £80 new. The damping and smoothness of travel is far better on the DL's however, but to get the things moving in the first place is not good IMO and small bump compliance is worse than the EXR's. I just did a Heath Robinson test on the RL's by attaching a digital weight gauge (used for weighing suitcases) and repeated tests showed I needed 50 to 60lb on the bars before the forks moved. Once moving the force required does reduce but the problem remains at any point in the travel. This is very poor IMO, and I am running much lower pressure than reccomended on both the positive and negative chambers (around 70psi). Further, the tests were done with damping on minimum.

I have to make it clear that the RL's were secondhand forks so something may be amiss. I haven't tried a new set to compare it with but going on the condition of them I don't see any reason why they should be in a bad way internally. I won't know for sure until I pull them apart for a full service but since buying them I have read reports of excessive stiction being caused by some internal bushes. One company (TFTuned) actually states on their service schedule 'bushes re-sized'. I quote from their website:

"Pike, Reba & Revelation - FAQs
The small-bump ride is very harsh from new. What could be the problem?
If you have a Dual Air or Air U-Turn fork, first ensure that the negative pressure is equal to, or up to 10psi more than, the positive pressure. If it’s still harsh, your fork lowers may have tight bushings. These will never free up during use and will need to be re-sized. During service, we always re-size bushings where necessary to get a smooth function. If your fork becomes harsh over time, there is probably dirt inside and it’s time for a service."

Just something to bear in mind. That said, you will find many excellent reports for Rebas so they are not a 'bad' fork by any means. It may be that only a few have problems.
 

danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,394
723
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk
I still haven't pulled the trigger on a new fork yet, largely because used forks nearly always have their steerer tube cut shorter than I need. This is leading me to think of alternative solutions.

Excuse my lack of knowledge, but I've never messed around with suspension or steering components before. Would a shorter than desirable steerer (long enough to safely clamp a stem though), combined with an angled stem give the same end result as a longer steerer paired with a flat stem?

Thanks

EDIT: What I'm really trying to achieve is to replace my existing suspension fork without changing the geometry of my current setup. Another question...... If I were to replace a fork with 100mm travel, with a 120mm travel fork that also has a 20mm shorter steerer tube, would the bike end up with the handlebar at the same height?
 
Last edited:

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
61
West Sx RH
New forks usually need the steerer cutting down to suit your existing, used forks should have the steerer length quoted or if not you have to ask. if you have riser head spacers you can add or remove some but would change the height position. Best to measure your head tube length and if buying used wait for something that comes up, quite easy to measure steerer within 5mm with forks still on bike but better with them off.
 

danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,394
723
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk

danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,394
723
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk
New forks usually need the steerer cutting down to suit your existing, used forks should have the steerer length quoted or if not you have to ask. if you have riser head spacers you can add or remove some but would change the height position. Best to measure your head tube length and if buying used wait for something that comes up, quite easy to measure steerer within 5mm with forks still on bike but better with them off.
Thanks. I am already aware of the points you raise. As mentioned earlier on in the thread, I'm holding out for a minimum 200mm steerer (most forks seem to get cut a lot shorter) hence the desire to find another way around the problem.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
That had crossed my mind previously, but I'd rather not put my trust in one not to fail while I'm bombing along at close to 40mph.
Stronger than an adjustable stem, I'd have thought. I know people that have them doubled up, which is still no problem:

 

anotherkiwi

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2015
7,845
5,786
The European Union
Stronger than an adjustable stem, I'd have thought. I know people that have them doubled up, which is still no problem:

The return of the green monster! I love the look of that bike! And double height stem riser, you never cease to impress me sir!
 

Alan Quay

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 4, 2012
2,351
1,076
Devon
Stronger than an adjustable stem, I'd have thought. I know people that have them doubled up, which is still no problem:

Second this. I have cheapo one on my off-road bike, and over the Xmas holiday I gave it a few good thumpings at a trail centre. Probably covered 20 miles over a few sessions without any problem.

While I'm no Danny MacAskill, as a tester I feel I make up for this with poor technique and excess mass.


Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: VictoryV