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As I thought, red lead in wrong hole. Needs to be in t'other hole. Range is set correct.

Too blurred to tell. Its very important that the leads are in the right holes....I think they might be wrong, in which case you'll get a flash and a pop.

You are lucky. Normally that will cause all the magic blue smoke to escape. Glad you fixed it!

Where are you, in case anyone's near? First job, put meter on volts DC, 200v range, and see what coming out of battery terminals.

With you on that. I'm even toying with the idea of using the steel part as a rack on its own (for an easily removed battery).

You are forgetting that E-bike power is governed by an overriding and universal physical law: Power cannot exceed 250W. It acts a bit like the speed of light, a restriction which cannot be exceeded. It's easy to prove mathematically: 25 x 40 = 250 (Smiley face, winking)

I've done it. The upside of a backpack battery is off road handling. Because you have control of the battery weight with your body. If you are going to do it, you need to leave the controller on the bike, and move battery into backpack. Anderson power pole (two pins) are easy to connect up...

Are there any other cables coming out of the battery? Kettle lead is usually just for charger.

Thanks d8veh and Shemozzle, but I'm really after something that I can retro fit (don't want to take the motor apart) I will have a look and see what RS have got.

No, just 3 pin is all I'm after.

I posed a similar question to a police officer friend of mine. He confirmed that no one would be in trouble for riding a bicycle drunk. A few weeks later, another friend had more than was good for him and crashed his bike through a hedge. Ambulance and police attended the scene, they patched...

Hi all, I'm looking to add a connector on to the phase wires, close to the hub to make wheel removal easier. It needs to be water resistant (ish) and capable of 15-20 amps. What have others used?

Ah, I didn't read that. Respect to you, you seem to know what you want to achieve but I've got to ask, why would you spend £1000 on a bike with plastic crank arms? In F1 racing it's often said that 'The cheapest part to change is the driver'. In DIY ebikes the cheapest part to change is the bike.

Your donor bike has plastic crank arms? If that's the case then I respectfully suggest that's it's not up to the job as an ebike, as the brakes will also be very poor.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but 3 years is about the right time for one of these batteries to give up.

£250 is a reasonable price for a UK landed battery. You may be able to get one cheaper, but not by much. There's a chance its repairable, but it's a slim chance. Where are you based? How much did you pay for the bike? I think I'd be asking for a refund.

GT85 is really good for cleaning car interiors - all the plastic dashboard bits.

My experience with mech disk is that they need a lot of adjustment, and new pads (£15 a set) every 500 miles or so. In that time they will need to be adjusted every 100 Miles, involving re-alligning the calliper, adjusting the cable, and all sorts of nonsense. V-brakes however, pads last 2000+...

I have had many puncture free miles with Fat Frank's (like Big Apples), and DMR motos.

A few months back I posted a pic of one of my bikes with a seat post mounted battery. There were a few comments about alloy racks cracking and breaking, and suggestions that I should use a steel one. Mine hasn't cracked (not used much) but I'm looking for steel replacement. Anyone bought one...