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I run a couple of 24v motors at 36v. Both SWX type. They spin faster, as they are wound to go at about 15mph at 24v. Unloaded they will spin 50% faster, around 22mph. In the real world though, they only get to about 19 (ish). You don't get much more torque though, as the extra power is all given...

Once you get the right hangar setting up the derailleur is easy. Basically, disconnect cable, set low/high stops, 're-connect cable, adjust tension until it moves. Lots of vids on YouTube, will post a link in a bit.

You will need some form of stand to set it up properly. You need to be able to lift the back wheel up, and operate the pedals and change the gears. I normally use a bit of wood in the vice.

Hangers are usually bike specific. What's wrong with one you have?

You can mix and match derailleurs, but if I were in your shoes I'd stick with a shimano. Unless you want something special, the cheaper shimano stuff will be fine and last 1000's of miles. Just get one that's compatible with the number of gears you have. Likewise, chains should pretty much all...

I assume he means the lug on the anti rotation washer. Normally this would be fitted in to the open end of the drop out.

Most of those eBay 1kw hub motors are direct drive. Fast, but with little torque. From your description you need high torque. I suggest 36v/15ah (540wh) battery, 15-20a controller, geared hub motor (Bafang BPM or CST are good examples). You don't need a 48v x 20ah (960wh) monster battery...

Sorry, forgot to ask how fast you want to go....

I agree with D8veh, those are heavy. What are you trying to accomplish exactly? Do you need lots of power, lots of range, both? How much do you weigh, how much do you want to pedal? What terrain?

Let's assume you have 3 x 12v, 12ah SLAs, wired in series. That gives you about 6ah at 36v of usable power. On a pedal assisted 250w bike, I'd expect to get about 12-15 miles. On an un-assisted moped, about 5 miles if your lucky. ...but we don't know what batteries you have, so its a guess.

You might be able to dish it enough with current spokes, but I agree with above: it should really be in the middle from the supplier.

Don't think it's either, but I will confirm... Edit: yes, looks like a stuck clutch. I'd assumed that a stuck clutch would be more obvious than that. Makes hardly any difference.

This discussion reminds me about something curious tha happened the other day. I have wired my lights into the main loom on my cruiser. It has a n old, geared Q100, and an old, no name controller. The battery was disconnected, and I wheeled it up the drive. The lights came on, so my old...

As far as I'm aware the police don't bother to prosecute those breaking the first law of thermodynamics.

Second hand steel framed mountain bikes are available on EBay, and good ones are nearly indestructible. My current favourite is anything from GT. Also, most quality aluminium MTB frames from the likes of Trek, Spec, GT (and others) will stand up to a lot of abuse. I've not broken any of...

What model is the controller? Many of them will run sensorless. Edit: just noticed that this is a S06S controller, which is the sensorless version. I've never tried one, but since BMS say its compatible with the Q100 and sell it as a kit, then I would assume this to be the case. I would just...

Controller will cost between £25-35 ish by the time its delivered. Edit: I'm guessing it's a 15a one, from the part number which includes 3615.

I just mean that if you have the wires disconnected, ensure they aren't touching each other. I suppose there's also a slim chance that you have a damaged cable where you took the wheel out.

You can feel notchiness if any of the phase wires are shorted together. Just a thought.

I guarantee you that battery would only satisfy cwah for an afternoon. The next day he'd be straight back on here with a new set of challenges: 1. Does anyone know the drag coefficient for a folding bike travelling at the speed of sound? 2. I want to carry three people. Do you think it's legal...