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Hi. This has me puzzled. I’ve got a KT 17A controller, LCD5 display, 8 magnet PAS, Swytch 250w hub. If I set max speed to 25 kph (legal limit) I get assistance up to 7(ish) mph. To get it to assist up to 15 mph I have to set max speed to 50kph. So something seems to be halving my max speed...

My favourite diode for this job. post edit - I see the last post says the 60A one - could well be a better choice, but I’ve not had a 30A fial.

In parallel. I isolate each pack with part of a MR30 shottky diode. Very little voltage drop (around a quarter of a volt). I can slap on a quick and easy swytch gen 3 pack for going down the shops, or add other packs to go further. The beauty of multiple packs is that I don’t get significant...

Yes, my bike has a Yose down-tube pack, a Swytch handlebar battery holder for a Swytch gen 3 pack, and a connector on the rear pannier to take some swytch gen 2 packs that I got off my brother! I can use all three simultaneously if I wish, to get me unheard of distances! It’s just my wife...

So the concensus is - bad/poor idea! Fair enough. I spend my life thinking up solutions for problems that don’t sometimes exist.

My wife has piddly Swytch battery packs whilst I have plenty of capacity in my Yose pack. I’m thinking of making up a jump lead that goes from the power output socket of my battery, and connects to her charge port on the Swytch battery - for when we are out and about. All I need to add is a...

On my KT controller for C1, I get the gist of settings 00, 01, and 02, and for the opposite waveform pulse, 05, 06, and 07. No one ever mentions setting 03 and 04, and yet I find 03 works the best for me. I should just be happy that it works, but I don’t like not understanding why I have a...

All my gigs are before it was easy to make a video. My defining moment was in a band called Rubber Duck in early 70’s, when Hendricks came along to the Revolution Club to hear us play!

A hashed-together solution in my world is a “Proof of Concept”. You make it professional if and when it works!

You’ll be sad if you sell your guitars Saneagle. My guitars are still beautiful works of art, and invoke so many “nearly made it big” memories - all those unpaid gigs, lugging tons of gear along to dingy clubs, and rubbing shoulders with those that did make it. I bet yours do the same for you...

I’m thinking that a better way, rather than regen, would be a more intuitive way of applying what power you do have from the battery when riding. Admittedly I’ve got fairly basic bikes but I do notice that the power kicks in when I don’t really need it, and doesn’t modulate the power for the...

The Chinese can (and often do) make the finest products of superb quality. We pay with petty money and get the quality we pay for.

After trying my friend’s, I always fancied a variax. The one I bought from ebay had a faulty sensor that turned into a nightmare - so it never got beyond that. Dropping to DADGAD at the touch of a button or getting banjo was pretty neat though. My only frustration with Line 6 generally is that...

I’ve used Line 6 since the ‘90’s with a Flextone original and a Flextone II amp wired in tandem, plus a Pod for home studio. I found the floorboard essential though. I always felt it a shame that Line 6 never really caught on with the big names - other than the doobies. I’m a big telecaster fan...

I’m pleased it worked for you - it all adds to our knowledge. The puzzle for me though is why then have separate connectors for putting power into the battery (the OD connections), to taking power out on the outer flat pins, if everything can be accomplished via the flat pins.

Final thoughts (I promise!). The Swytch charger is very good quality and is trustworthy. Maybe do what I have done and put a connector in the charging cable that allows you to have a voltmeter inline that’ll give you a good indication as to the charging progress. secondly, I use a 240v...

Using the “reverse O-D” IC5 type connector in the centre of the battery yellow connector (that you normally charge through) might be possible way forward for you, but again it probably will have protection circuitry. At £300+ a go, I wouldn’t be risking blowing your pack up just for a “nice to...

With nothing plugged into the battery pack the output of the battery pack isn’t presented to the outside world - for safety when carrying the battery in your backpack, etc. Shorting the two inner flat pins on the yellow plug turns on the output of the battery pack and presents the power to the...

Do the build yourself and get your local bike shop to true it for you (much cheaper). There are websites with spoke length calculators on them, and (as previously said) youtube gives you all the instruction you need.

No offence taken. You've given me a lot of help directly and indirectly in understanding pedelecs - thanks for that.