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Ouch. I’ve been cuffed! I don’t think I was guilty of either in this case though. The “erroneous” display sends and receives data across both UART lines and powers on ok, so I’ve not blown it up. What I will note in my diary, is not to buy a controller again without a matching display. I had...

I messaged Lily (Yose Power) about my error 9, and she advised to email their support team. I had purchased my various items such as the Yose battery pack, the slider with a Lishui controller, and the C500 display, from various suppliers on ebay, so I admit to not feeling as if I’d get help...

Has ebay come up with the goods? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384195108347?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=illlzdgktg2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=IB4nVD07Rea&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’m pretty sure Julets were never designed to have a diy option. I can recommend a squirt of a good silicon sealer (or adhesive) around the splice before shrink-sleeving it and leaving it to set. You can actually buy shrink-sleeve with built-in gunge that does make a waterproof seal with rubber.

That makes sense. I shall have a little play with the pas’s i’ve got. Get my compass out!

I’ll try the swytch pas first (with low expectation). Just waiting for my KT stuff to arrive. I’m puzzled why a magnet passing by a hall-effect can give such successful/unsuccessful results. Surely it’s just a string of 5v pulses - whatever the number of magnets there are. Maybe I’m about to...

So the chances are that C1 set to 3 will mean that the swytch pas (12 poles) will probably work - if the 12 pole that you bought is now working.

Thanks AGS - retired systems engineer - I come well armed with the essential tools and bits!

Hi Saneagle. Yes, I was never intending to go the Lishui way But I had it in my spares. It’s all good learning stuff though. I’ve at least discovered that the speed sensor on a swytch wheel is “open collector” - i.e. doesn’t give a high, but drags a high to ground. I’ve ordered SM connectors...

Thanks AGS - I’ll take a look.

Hi. Still (slowly) working on getting a swytch wheel to work with this Lishui 17A controller. Still dogged by the error 9. Everything performs ok (brakes, pas, throttle, etc.). The only thing that doesn’t yet work is the speed sensing. Either the controller is faulty or it just doesn’t like a...

The brake input was also at 3v, so have put a pull-up 3k resistor on that circuit. I’ve ordered a cheap throttle off of ebay, but in the meantime I'll pull that input low to see if error 9 goes.

Except for the smallish cost side of it, I’m enjoying the learning! I think I’ve sussed out what’s generally happening. My current view (that I’ll test for), is that all the Lishui controller inputs (PAS, throttle, speed sensor, and brakes) are floating inputs (around 3.3v). When powering up...

Added 3k pull-up resistor to the white “speed” wire. I now have a nice “high” and “low” on the wire, and measure 5v on the full rotation of the wheel, which goes low in one place. This still seems to me to be the opposite of what I’d expect (I’m expecting low for most of the rotation, going high...

If I measure the currently open-circuit white wire connecting to the controller I measure 3.3v to ground. To me, this appears to be an input to a logic-gate that hasn’t got a pull-up to 5v, and is “floating” - neither a logic high or low. The wheel appears to be functioning as “open collector”...

Well the swytch wheels I’ve got DO have a signal on the white “speed” wire, but it’s not what I was expecting. I firstly measured between 0v and the white wire and got nothing when the wheel was spun. I then put my meter between +5v and the white wire and got a reading of 4.7v at one point of...

That makes sense. I’ll do some testing on the weekend.

…could swytch be using a speed indication via other means - maybe by using one of the three Hall switches controlling the motor?

For the swytch setup you can have a choice of three displays, the Base display (no speed display), and the LED (mid-range) one or the OLED (top of the range) one - both have speed display. All three use the same hub offering. Also, all of them have a top-speed setting - which leads me to believe...

Thanks Saneagle. I’m imagining that the white wire is the output from a hall-effect transistor? Neither of my two swytch wheels persuade my display to give a speed reading, so if I get a pulse on the white wire then my problem must be the controller itself.