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Actually I don’t think this idea would fly, because there are mosfets(?) for turning off the output pins that would get in the way of a reverse charge. Pin 1 in the photo is +ve output, and pin 6 -ve. The plastic “anvil” on the bottom edge of the battery is (in normal use) to hold the bottom...

I’m asking the battery experts here as I’m not one of them. Would it be stupid to force a charge (for a brief time only), by putting a charge on the two output flat pins whilst shorting out the inner two flat pins to turn the pack on. I’m not saying to charge it fully, but just a little charge...

It’s a Swytch Gen 3 pack. If you attempt to open it, I would love to see pictures when/if you do. Most of the body of the pack is rubber, and I would think the front face (with the swytch logo on it) prises out, but not sure.

Not quite. Ignoring the charge “O and D” connectors in the middle, the outer flat pins are the battery outputs, and the inner pair of flat pins are shorted together by the yellow connector plug to turn the pack on.

Nope. I don’t use a throttle, but if your controller is a Lishui then it probably will be ok. The swytch PAS is compatible with Lishui, and probably swytch things will be. With the KT controller I changed the PAS to a KT 8-pole, and everything else was changed except the hub.

Pleased it worked for you! Yes, I’d like it if there was a repository here for information that shouldn’t age and can be added to/corrected. On the VX220 forum (a few years ago now) we had a “Knowledge” section for that sort of thing (how to’s) Maybe we already have that, but I haven’t seen it...

Hi Rig the Jig. Just curious - you have a P1 of 96. Does your max speed work ok i.e. if you set max speed to 25kph, do you feel it cut out at around 15mph? On my swytch hubs, I had to double the P1 setting to 192 before the speed settings behaved themselves and we have similar controllers, so...

My needs are simple. I don’t do significant rides any more due to age, and really just pootle around the countryside with my wife. I sorted out our three bikes that were originally Swytch gen 3 and my brother and his wife originally had swytch gen 2. For two of the bikes, I bought the Lishui...

Read the numbers on the items. It’s likely to be the single one at the top of your board in the photo, but you’re looking for a number stamped on it something like 7805.

One wire of the three is constant 0v, one is constant 5v, the last is signal. If you can’t find 0v and 5v wires then something is fried I guess. Don’t rely on colour coding though.

There’s no way I can tell how they’ve wired the plug. The swytch pas is a 12-magnet pas - and this might not be. If you don’t buy a swytch pas then its down to your technical skills to get it to work. Is you’re existing PAS physically bad? It sounds like it’s trying to work, but is maybe dirty...

The link doesn’t work for me without changing countries on my amazon.

There’s a two pin yellow plug on the actual plastic battery box where you can measure this. That is the battery actual output. You’ll need to switch the pack on with the switch.

As you’ve posted pictures of an open battery pack, then if you can find a voltage meter, make sure that the pack charges up to a full 42v. If it doesn’t, then your cells are out of balance.

The problem with changing the PAS is that swytch PAS has a Julet connector, wired for a Lishui controller. You might be better off to try to locate a swytch pas from ebay. If you buy a different make then its possible to cut the three wires and splice it to the swytch connector, but you need...

It looks like the PAS is to blame. The red light isn’t a power indicator, it only lights up when it detects rotation of the magnets.

Just a thought. My brother had a very similar problem with his gen 2 swytch too. It turned out that his batteries in the battery pack was very much out of balance and the pack was shutting down. Your packs are also quite old.

What non-swytch people here are maybe unaware of is that when you swap between your three gen 2 packs, that you are also swapping the controller module and display. The only bits not being changed when you do this, are the handlebar bracket, the hub, and the pedal sensor (PAS). The fault...

Sorry, the battery state of charge lights are on the right.

When it all fails, how many LEDs are light up on the left-hand light column on the display? These show how much power is remaining in the pack.