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The handle bar bracket contains just connections to translate the multi-pin connector that connects to the pack, to the individual connectors that go to the various parts of the bike. There is a lock mechanism to lock the pack into place, so I don't think your problem is there. The best advice...

Ah, so you have what people call the gen 2 setup. The battery takes up most of the space inside the case, and the controller (with the mosfets, etc. );sits down one side of the case. If something is getting hot then you’re not likely to feel it through the case.

It would help to know what Swytch version you have. Can you do a picture of your battery?

Thumbs down then, I think! People come here though looking for options, so it’s still worth a (short) thread.

This seems to be a neat bit of kit, that could be a solution for those with gen 2 Swytch setups that need a replacement (or better) battery...

I knew you’d take the mick eventually! As Ghost1952 says, it’s p ing down with rain, and it’s just thought exercise for me. I DO like these LiFe cells though. Anyway, the “old” ways should always be tested or we’ll never progress things. Ooooo, I’m now Esteemed!

You could charge them in strings of ten in series using your 42v charger, with BMS type connections across each battery (as per now). The batteries still take up the same area as they always do, just would benefit from a slightly different bms to balance them better.

There’s certainly some merit in all this, but as usual it takes someone with drive and money to move it forward to a marketable product. I guess for me it’s always going to be just a mental exercise.

I guess that’s why the Celcapz system suffers from cracking plastic - as AGS says. Not to say that an improved battery contact clamp couldn’t be thought up though.

And storing 40 or so non-linked cells would be far safer too.

Yes, I agree - too bulky to begin with. No laughing, but I have this concept in my mind, or keeping all my 18650 cells as naked, untouched cells. Then build a battery charger that charges a given quantity of these (maybe 40) up to the 4.2v safely when I wanted to use them. To use them, I would...

Hi. what’s the expert opinion on these kits for assembling a battery pack with no spot welding required? Certainly not a cheap solution...

Here’s what for me, was the final solution. A twin Schottky diode on the back of the swytch housing (nice and cool, and hidden pretty much). You can have any extra 36v battery attached, the normal swytch pack, or both together, with no fear of battery cross-feeding..

Simplest way is with this adapter sold on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135087147642?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xK9mEcvUQZu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=IB4nVD07Rea&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It just plugs onto the outer spade connectors of the swytch battery plug. great...

I can confirm too. I've got three bikes under my wing that were originally swytch - one a gen 2 and two a gen 3 (max). All are now running happily with a Lishui controller (C500 display) embedded in a Yose battery and slider (15.6Ahr), a Yose battery pack with a KT 17a controller with LCD5...

It all depends on how you want to die. I’m more petrified by the thought of a slow, painful, decline into senility. A heart attack whilst doing something meaningful doesn’t sound so bad.

Ah, But now I know that with a good quality BMS I have nothing much to fear if I do the same! I do use a 240v countdown timer though. At c. £15 from eBay, I can set charging times of 15, 30, 45 minutes, or 1h, 2h, 3h, etc. and forget about it too!

I guess I’ve been a drone in lots of people’s ears regarding this thread! I’ve always been rather pedantic in how I go about things. Now I understand a lot more I shall make note of the achieved voltage (rested briefly) when I charge, to then decide if I let it sit on the charger a little...

That makes it clear Saneagle - thanks for clarifying. So leaving it plugged in after the charge complete light comes on DOES do some good, and won’t do any harm - as long as you keep an eye on it. I saw your post on the power pack cases on ebay and have ordered one up to use these compromised...

OK, but this must be a function of the BMS allowing balancing to continue once a cell-group has reached 4.2v. The charger isn’t in control, the BMS is. Admittedly I’ve only had an evenings read of bms design though, but I still believe that the charge complete light only comes on when there is...