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If you can't feel it leaking, pump it up and it'll get you home.

I'm not saying its hard with either, just that the easiest is disk. Here's the routine I use for removing a wheel from a bike with cable V-brakes. 1. Turn the bike over. 2. Release the skewer. 3. Attempt wheel removal. 4. Remember you didn't release the brakes. 5. Attempt to release the...

I think you do have the right to return it, as long as its in the same condition as you got it. Unfortunately, in order to test it you will have to ride it around, on the road/track/whatever. Then it won't be new.

At the risk of inviting the wrath of old Billy Bob (since he's made a staggering 34 posts it's his forum apparently, and he can decide how the conversation progresses!) Removing/replacing a wheel with disk brakes is easier than with rim brakes. There's no faffing about with...

You can fasten just about anything to any other thing with cable ties, it just might look a bit sh!te. (Sorry LP, none intended but your bike looks like it was covered in magnetic glue then trolley dashed through Halfords)

I think your biggest problem is the handlebar position. If you correct that you can lose all the lead weights.

I keep a Topeak mini 6 and Leatherman in my pocket at all times. The mini 6 has been excellent and is only about £8. http://www.topeak.com/products/Mini-Tools/Mini6 Mines been used day in day out for 2 years, still as good as new. In my bike bag I have a 6" adjustable. Bahco ones are my...

All rim brakes are not born equal. Most of the ones on cheap bikes are awful, where as the ones on your nice Trek will be as good as can be. In my opinion good rim brakes are acceptable up to about 20mph. Rim wear is the biggest problem for me, but I'm heavy and ride in a 'spirited' manner.

Sound advice, as ever. I'd just add that if you can't feel the air with your hands (perhaps 'cos they'm all rough n manly) then use your face. Much more sensitive. If you still can't feel the air escaping, put some air in it, it'll get you home but be flat in the morning.

Some crank drives incorporate a freewheel in the mechanism, allowing the chain wheel to turn while the pedals remain stationary.

It's also very good on the S06P. I too now shun the throttle for so many reasons.

Yes, it'll work with throttle. I think the sinewave one (S12S) is sensored only, and I have heard of times when it's not compatible with motors. The S12P will run senseless, and seems to be more compatible. Your BPM motor should be OK though, I just mention it in case you want to do something...

I guess it depends how you're counting. How do we know that the non native speakers in your link aren't just people who can say 'Manchester United'. I have a GCSE in French, and attempted to use it at the weekend (with tragic result I admit.) Would that count me as a non native speaker?

It's not though, because the Chinese languages have the most speakers by a long way, then Spanish. English is in third place.

I got one from BMS a few weeks back, it was the smaller one. I also got one from Panda, it was a little bigger.

It'll be fine.

Yes, I have built them for as low as £350, with a new battery, but that's because I got lucky with some used motors at £50 each, and the £/$ was much healthier. I also keep a permanent watch on local bikes, and often buy them cheap when they need fixing. But you can only do this if you have all...

No, sadly not. It only makes sense to do a conversion if any of the below are true: You like messing with stuff. You want something not available off the peg. You want something illegally fast. It doesn't make much financial sense to DIY. Have you looked at the likes of Kudos/Woosh?

....which is the point of the OP's question. Derailleurs are cheap. Very cheap. Probably £15 to £50 (all in) on cheap bikes, and perfectly functional. Shimano and Sturmey hubs cost more, and are less flexible. They require less maintenance, but add a significant additional cost. (About...

I think I have at some point or other, owned/used/setup all of the cheaper Shimano ones. They are much of a muchness. When clean and lubed they are all perfectly functional. I now strip, clean and rebuild mine every 1,000 mile or so. In my experience most problems that are (falsely)...