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With postage and import duty it'll be about £220

What you are asking for does not exist, that's why we have made these suggestions.

I think you miss understood what I have written. Please re-read. A bottle battery is a type of lithium battery. You need to budget about £200-250 for a 10ah 24v lithium battery. While that seems a lot, your lead acid setup will only last for 200 charge cycles (probably a lot less) before it...

I'd guess it's a problem with one of the hall sensors. You would be best to test them with a meter. Then, I would buy new controller that will run sensorless (like the KU65 or S06P from BMS battery)

Lithium batteries are comprised of 3.6v cells, usually 18650's which are cylindrical, 65mm x 18mm. They are arranged to give the correct voltage and capacity, in your case 24v. So, to replace your existing SLA's you can: 1. Custom build a pack to fit in your existing battery holder. Insat can...

No, not possible. You may he able to get the existing case custom fitted with new cells by Insat. http://www.bga-reworking.co.uk/e-bike-batteries.html Or, if you are handy buy a bottle battery and transfer the contents yourself. Alternatively, put a battery on the rear rack, or in the panniers.

You are correct, but from a practical standpoint the difference between 26" and 650b (27.5) is not enough to worry about. There will be about 0.5 mph between them, I'd be surprised if anyone could detect the torque difference.

If I were in your shoes, I'd have the Kraken and get the hub laced into a new rim.

Have a look at the Carrera Kraken. Halfords have them at about £330 at the mo, which is very good for a bike that includes hydraulic disks, 27 gears and a lockout fork (suntour XCR I think)

The spell checker is at your end, so its really up to you.

It's all done in the controller, which is usually a separate box.

A hub motor is a complex, 3 phase device. It will only work when each phase is fired in the correct sequence. This is performed by a micro controller. In order to fire the in correct sequence it needs to know the position of the motor. That's what the hall sensors are there for. Some...

...but in 20-200 charge cycles you will need new $99 batteries, at which point modifying the wiring and adding a lithium battery may be worthwhile.

A bad phase connection will cause this problem, as will a bad hall sensor/wiring.

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/628-24v12ah-bottle-ebike-battery-pack-with-charger-battery.html Here's an example. That would go twice as far as your present setup (c.25 miles) and should be good for 800 cycles.

Certainly OK if it's a private sale, and the new stickers don't infringe any copyright or attempt to pass it off as something it's not. I'm no expert on commercial IP, but if you own a physical thing, I would have thought you can do what you like to it, as long as you don't deceive anyone. For...

Yes, that's about right. You can expect only about 200 charge cycles if you treat them kindly, perhaps 20 if they are heavily drained.

I guess it depends if you have a new for old policy. Having not ever in 25 years made an household insurance claim, my attitude recently changed when I discovered that my wife has happily been paying the £900/year premium to Direct Line. (It should be closer £300). If they are happy to rip me...

I'd say 50% for SLA (sealed lead acid, as your pic), so you have 144Wh to play with with. Average power use is around 12Wh/mile, so those batteries will have a range of 12 miles. Obviously if you are light, fit or both the 12Wh/mile can be reduced significantly. (Or increased in reverse) If...

Nearly everything I have ever heard about 50C is bad news, and it's pretty much the same with Kalkhoff. I have formed an opinion that Kalkhoff was once a good brand, but have lost their way. I have concluded that 50C are just dodgy. I certainly wouldn't spend any money with either of them...