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I've read about that trick too. Good to see it works :)

Aha, new pads restored lever travel to normal :) The pad thickness was more like 0.5mm, so the pads were desperate to be changed anyway. I was expecting them to last 6 months like the other manufacturer's pads, so that's why I suspected air in the system at the start. It's surprising how much...

Don't know what the original pad material thickness was, but a visual check looks like about 1mm left. I wouldn't mind having a bash at a brake bleed, just for the experience, but I agree with Dave in saying " Don't try and fix what ain't broke "

Couple of easy things you can try: Make sure that the connector on the chainstay is pushed all the way home. If the previous owner has ever had the wheel off, then the connector may not have been refitted together properly. Clean the contacts on the bottom of the battery and also the 2 prongs...

It was more of a thank you for highlighting that there could be an adjustment I didn't know about :p As it happens, the Tektro HDC-300's don't have any form of reach adjustment. They are at the arse end of the Tektro range, but I have found them to be pretty good for cheapy brakes. Far better...

Thanks Dave, I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on :)

I'll have to take a peek tomorrow. I must admit I don't remember seeing any type of adjuster, but I may be wrong. They're basic Tektros!

I'll have to take a peek tomorrow. I must admit I don't remember seeing any type of adjuster, but I may be wrong. They're basic Tektros!

I'm hoping that the extra brake lever travel is due to worn pads, but if a new set doesn't improve it, then I may resort to a bleed.

Do any forum members refresh the fluid and bleed their hydraulic brakes. If so, what mileage do you tend to do it at and do you DIY or LBS?

Crikey :eek:

Any idea of how many amps these live rails are capable of supplying?

How much voltage/current is going through these live rails and wouldn't the rubber from the tyres insulate the rider from the electricity?

http://road.cc/content/news/228375-kent-cyclist-hospitalised-after-riding-across-live-rail

Yer totally right, I'll eat humble pie and bow out ;)

Maybe someone else can clarify this, but I don't think Bafang has rated them as 250w, it's just vendors detuning them and slapping a 250w sticker on them. It's a kind of pull the wool over the law's eyes thing I guess. As far as I know, the BBS01 is currently the only version that Bafang has...

I think we're all getting a bit confused with this BBSO1/BBS02 business. As far as I see it, the latest motors are as follows: BBS01 motor with 36v controller BBS02 motor with choice of 36v or 48v controller BBSHD with 48v controller If, for example, a vendor quotes a 36v BBS02 as a 250w...

The bottom line is, a BBS02 correctly programmed with a few parameter tweaks and a 15mph cut-off, will climb most hills at 15mph.

I have a feeling that the 250w marked BBS02's are actually 500w or 750w versions mechanically, but just software detuned (for want of another word). Therefore, there's a big scope for massively increasing torque, whilst keeping a 15mph cut-off. Whether this set-up is legal, I'm not sure.

A boatload of extra torque, meaning it will climb just about anything when combined with a 42T chainring. Definitely. I've been running a BBS02 25A (750w) for thousands of miles with no issues. Mine has been programmed for max performance too! The BBS01 would be fine in a commuting role, where...