Refreshing and bleeding hydraulic brake fluid?
- Thread starter Fordulike
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D
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The only time I've ever done it is when I shortened a brake hose. Don't try and fix what ain't broke.
My motorbike is still running the original brake fluid and coolant since 1994 (23 years). Everything works perfectly.
My motorbike is still running the original brake fluid and coolant since 1994 (23 years). Everything works perfectly.
Never done it unless damage removes fluid. The hope brakes on my epic have been boiled in the Alps, and the Shimano s have never been touched. The people on Alps trips that faffed about with their brakes, wore out discs using the wrong pads or would go through pads in one descent. I've bought 2 sets in 17 years.
Sent from my Lenovo YT3-850F using Tapatalk
Sent from my Lenovo YT3-850F using Tapatalk
I change mine at least once a year, and I'm always stunned by the rank colour of it. The performance may or may not have deteriorated in that time, but as I like to stick to thorough maintenance regime, I never see it as an issue to carry out.
I also carried out a strip and rebuild on my Reverb Stealth seat post a couple of weeks ago, and the fluid in that was black! The improvement afterwards was quite significant.
I also carried out a strip and rebuild on my Reverb Stealth seat post a couple of weeks ago, and the fluid in that was black! The improvement afterwards was quite significant.
I'm hoping that the extra brake lever travel is due to worn pads, but if a new set doesn't improve it, then I may resort to a bleed.
D
Deleted member 4366
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I'll have to take a peek tomorrow. I must admit I don't remember seeing any type of adjuster, but I may be wrong. They're basic Tektros!
I'll have to take a peek tomorrow. I must admit I don't remember seeing any type of adjuster, but I may be wrong. They're basic Tektros!
D
Deleted member 4366
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Look behind the lever where the plunger is. Normally it's a cylinder with a threaded rod through it that you adjust with an allen key. It might be on the back of the lever.
I wouldn't be thanking Dave, I would be investigating the cause, not masking the issue.Thanks Dave, I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on
It was more of a thank you for highlighting that there could be an adjustment I didn't know about
As it happens, the Tektro HDC-300's don't have any form of reach adjustment. They are at the arse end of the Tektro range, but I have found them to be pretty good for cheapy brakes. Far better than the rim brakes I used to ride with.
I did change to a different manufacturer's pads a few months ago, so I'm wondering if they are a softer compound and wear faster than the previous ones I was using. I seem to remember getting 6 months out of the previous ones, but I have only had these on a couple of months.
I've got new pads arriving soon, so I'll fit them, assess if there's any change, then go from there.
Unless there is an airleak/fluid loss then most likely warn pads, a check on pad material left will tell you.
Don't know what the original pad material thickness was, but a visual check looks like about 1mm left.
I wouldn't mind having a bash at a brake bleed, just for the experience, but I agree with Dave in saying " Don't try and fix what ain't broke "
Aha, new pads restored lever travel to normal
The pad thickness was more like 0.5mm, so the pads were desperate to be changed anyway. I was expecting them to last 6 months like the other manufacturer's pads, so that's why I suspected air in the system at the start.
It's surprising how much extra lever travel there is, when the pads are down to their final breath, but I would expect higher end systems to adjust the lever travel far better with pad wear.
These pads are quieter and stop progressively better than the others, so it's a small price to pay for changing them more often.
I'm not making excuses, but I found I checked rim brake blocks more often than disc brake pads, due to the fact they are almost in your face when using the bike. There's a little more involved when checking pads, so I can see why riders may fit and forget, until there is an issue.
The pad thickness was more like 0.5mm, so the pads were desperate to be changed anyway. I was expecting them to last 6 months like the other manufacturer's pads, so that's why I suspected air in the system at the start.
It's surprising how much extra lever travel there is, when the pads are down to their final breath, but I would expect higher end systems to adjust the lever travel far better with pad wear.
These pads are quieter and stop progressively better than the others, so it's a small price to pay for changing them more often.
I'm not making excuses, but I found I checked rim brake blocks more often than disc brake pads, due to the fact they are almost in your face when using the bike. There's a little more involved when checking pads, so I can see why riders may fit and forget, until there is an issue.
I knew I wouldn't be using my bike for about 10 days recently and left it with elastic bands keeping the brake lever fully on.
There must have been a bit of air in the system and when I came to use them they were much more positive and not needing to travel quite as far.
The effect seems permanent so worth doing I think.
Dave.
There must have been a bit of air in the system and when I came to use them they were much more positive and not needing to travel quite as far.
The effect seems permanent so worth doing I think.
Dave.