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Let's not think about new batteries just yet, there are several options you could take. I was just pointing out that the Erider one is not great value for money. Take a few steps back, you need to find the controller and establish it's current rating.

The batteries from Erider don't offer very good value, any battery that fits in the box and can supply the required current will work and give you better range. As flecc says, you will prob. have to change connectors to suit your bike/charger.

Yes.

Those jack plugs are very fiddily to solder esp. if the wire is quite thick like the wire on your charger. An easier option would be to leave the charger alone and connect a kettle socket to the wires on the battery. If you have some longer wire to hand you could put the socket under the seat...

Thanks guys, I was beginning to think I was typing in Chinese. I've worked on a couple of similar bikes recently and 1 a while back and they all seem to have shared charge/discharge ports with cheap 2 wire BMS's on the lithium packs. Because the OP has a Erider charger and the connector matches...

I sorry if i have caused you confusion, I can only comment on what I see in your photos, I'm just trying to advise you on the correct, safe way to charge your battery. I freely admit i am not the best when it comes to remote assistance/advise. Maybe someone else can advise in a clearer way you...

You could fit xt90s anti spark connectors. Beware of fake ones, they don't work. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232778144957?hash=item3632a89cbd:g:zAIAAOSwiHZbBDQE

That black wire is TWO wires, + and - and as I said, is the connector to charge the battery through the BMS. The battery you have is not from Erider, so the connector on your Erider charger does not match the connector on the battery. Erider batteries use the same wires/connector to charge the...

Sorry, but the 3 pin connector is the discharge port. If you are charging the battery through that, then you are bypassing the BMS, which is there to protect the battery. Post a photo of your charger, I have a feeling it's the old one for the lead acid batteries.

That's the charging connector.

The controller will prob. be under the seat, around that area. You don't need to pedal when you ride, but they are there to make the bike legal.

No, but you do for a 45amp one. You already have a sine wave controller :)

Nice to see someone has done some testing on the cells, looks like they are fairly close to stated capacity, although size of load can play a big part in capacity tests, esp. on cheap cells. As you are only pulling 4amp max. on each one, they shouldn't moan too much. Keep us up to date with real...

It will be interesting for some of us to hear how this battery works out for you as far as range and performance. Price is certainly very good for the spec. What motor are you running?

Don't feel too bad, most on here have made similar mistakes, it's how we learn. You have a decent controller, it's just not matched to your battery. Lowering the power will be the cheapest solution. What display do you have?

OK, so the battery you linked to can only supply 30amps con. which does not match the 45amps the controller can demand with high PAS and throttle, so is likely cutting power to the controller. Depending on the handle bar display you have, you may be able to lower the power in the C5 setting. You...

Post a link to the battery you've got, it needs to be able to supply 50amps con. to handle full throttle. If the PAS is still working, then nothing in the controller has blown, check the connector on your throttle. There have been problems reported on running KT controllers at 52v with standard...

Your display is an LCD screen and could well be reacting to the 42 degree heat. Living in the UK, I've not used my bike in such temps. so it's a bit of a guess, but unless it goes completely blank, the screen is still getting power, which means the controller is cutting power to the motor.

As the LCD1 remains on when bike cuts out, it's unlikely to be a battery problem. It's poss. the controller is cutting out due to thermal overload from a combination of high current demand on the hill and high air temp. Assuming the controller is in some sort of container, if poss. you could try...

Compatability issue with your chargers will prob. be down to the way the 3 pin charging plug is wired up which is often printed on the charger case. Both chargers are for a 36v battery, with 42v output voltage, so if wired correctly, will both charge either battery.