ERider moped Help

[billyboya]

You do my test on the 20v scale and vfr's test on the 200v scale as the voltage reading is different. My way one gets individual 3 figure readings of less then 5v, with vfr's way you are using the main pack B- so you get a rising accumulated reading each time so need to use the 200v scale.

so you mean test those 14 pins what vfr said but use the 20v mark on meter. which like I said above I only tried 1st 3 pins and they just say 1. nothing else was I correct then. also does this battery seem ok then to you all

 

[vfr400]

OK, we have everything now. The battery is OK, thankfully. The charger is a bit on the low side. It should be 54.6v, but your meter might not be very accurate, so nothing to worry about. The only important thing would be to get the correct connector and charge through the jack socket; however, the batterry looks underratd to me, which is probably the cause of all your problems. It says 15A on the BMS. I would guess that you need at least 20A, plus it doesn't look very big. You need one twice the size.

 

[Nealh]

so you mean test those 14 pins what vfr said but use the 20v mark on meter. which like I said above I only tried 1st 3 pins and they just say 1. nothing else was I correct then. also does this battery seem ok then to you all

No the two ways of taking readings are different, when you get time sit down and read carefully again and digest what I have written. If you are trying to understand that what I have written then you have to forget every thing that you have done and read so far and start as if you know nothing, once understood and tested then both the way I suggest (a little more tricky but not much) and vfr's way both get voltage readings but in a different way and readings of different scale readings.

vfr's way is for accumulative voltage count so 4,8 12 ,16 etc ,etc, to a final max voltage reading whether it is 2 4,36 or 48v ect,etc.
My way is for individual single cell readings of each cell group of any particular battery, so each time you will only see a voltage reading in the range of 0v- 4.2v.

I use both ways my self, it all depends on what I am doing with the battery and what I want to see.

As vrf has said the readings you have done are fine and indicate no major imbalance or battery issue.

 

[flecc]

however, the batterry looks underratd to me, which is probably the cause of all your problems. It says 15A on the BMS. I would guess that you need at least 20A, plus it doesn't look very big. You need one twice the size.

Even the supplied ones on these E-riders are underrated. As standard the Model 15 with pedals the OP has was supplied with a 48 v 10 Ah lithium battery at first, later with a 48v 12Ah one. Both far smaller than is sensible.

E-rider only fit larger batteries to the moped versions without pedals, a 20 Ah to the Model 18 and a 24 Ah to the Model 21.
.

 

[billyboya]

OK, we have everything now. The battery is OK, thankfully. The charger is a bit on the low side. It should be 54.6v, but your meter might not be very accurate, so nothing to worry about. The only important thing would be to get the correct connector and charge through the jack socket; however, the batterry looks underratd to me, which is probably the cause of all your problems. It says 15A on the BMS. I would guess that you need at least 20A, plus it doesn't look very big. You need one twice the size.

Well maybe later on I will invest in a bigger battery, but to be honest I wont be going on very long journey's its just to pop to shops etc I have now tried another tester I have and it now reads 54.5 on the charger so better now. I think I had it on correct setting by the images below. so do you now think once I start charging battery by that dc jack plug it will be ok now as yesterday it went about 1 mile then seemed to have a fault kept cutting off. but battery had plenty power when i got home and tested it

also would anyone here know what these 2 images of a key slot one on handle bars and another at rear tyre are for as I dont have keys for those. I think that blue tab at rear wheel is to turn on/off alarm not sure

 

[Nealh]

Billy you need to find the metal controller box and confirm the current rating of it and then make sure a new battery exceeds the current rating. At 15a as stated on the BMS it is likely to be under rated in amps/current to supply what controller asks for power wise, the BMS will have current over ride so will deliver more then 15a but only for a max of 30 seconds then it will cut out as a safety feature.
Also as has been said charge only via the charge jack so you need to buy a new charger or change the lead on your one.

 

[billyboya]

I also just like to say many many thanks to all you guys as you all are and have been so helpful I can remember when I bought my electric bike which had 2 x 12v SLA batteries on it and you all helped me replace with a lithium one and its still going today, But I will be selling it once I get this moped working 100%

 

[billyboya]

Billy you need to find the metal controller box and confirm the current rating of it and then make sure a new battery exceeds the current rating. At 15a as stated on the BMS it is likely to be under rated in amps/current to supply what controller asks for power wise, the BMS will have current over ride so will deliver more then 15a but only for a max of 30 seconds then it will cut out as a safety feature.
Also as has been said charge only via the charge jack so you need to buy a new charger or change the lead on your one.

Yes someone also said about the Controller, but I wont have a clue where that is located on the ERider model 15 maybe I should contact ERider again and ask. yes once the dc jack plug arrives from Ebay I ordered I will only then charge battery in that plug not the 3 pin no more. what I find strange is why has the 3pin connector been charging battery ok if its a discharge port. probably would I suppose,

 

[flecc]

Billy you need to find the metal controller box and confirm the current rating of it and then make sure a new battery exceeds the current rating. At 15a as stated on the BMS it is likely to be under rated in amps/current to supply what controller asks for power wise, the BMS will have current over ride so will deliver more then 15a but only for a max of 30 seconds then it will cut out as a safety feature.
Also as has been said charge only via the charge jack so you need to buy a new charger or change the lead on your one.

The current battery for Billy's bike is this one, as you can see at 12 Ah very underrated for that model.

They used to be only 10 Ah!
.

 

[vfr400]

If it's like the ones I used to fix, you have to drop the panel at the bottom, then you'll find the controller attached to the frame.

The key-slots are obviously for a key. It looks like one locks the back brake and the other switches off the power. How do you switch off the power at the moment?

 

[vfr400]

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[billyboya]

If it's like the ones I used to fix, you have to drop the panel at the bottom, then you'll find the controller attached to the frame.

The key-slots are obviously for a key. It looks like one locks the back brake and the other switches off the power. How do you switch off the power at the moment?

When you say Panel do you mean where the battery case is fitted to access controller box.

Wow so that key slot is to lock back brakes. I get loads stuff from AliExpress that's where I bought my lithium battery for my electric bike thanks to you guys. so its only £14 but I wont have a clue how to fit that. prob my brother would help. I thought it was maybe for the alarm on the moped. But isn't it possible to purchase keys for those 2 key slots i said from ERider but then They prob need to know more info I don't know what that one on right handle bar is for.

When I turn off power on bike. obviously I push key in fob turn to left to lock steering. then under the seat is this white box I just turn that off and power is disabled


so once I replace that 3 pin plug with a dc Jack plug and charge battery from the jack plug do you think then battery will be ok on moped as it kept cutting out other day. then went altogether so had to push it home. but battery was fine when i did get home.

Just got a reply from ERider regarding the controller, they said

Either under the seat well or sometimes behind the access panel below the front of the seat and above the footrest

 

[vfr400]

I think the battery is insufficient for the job. That will be confirmed when you check the controller. The panel to remove is the one running along the bottom of the bike with the pedals sticking through it. You might have to remove other panels first if they overlap it.

 

[Nealh]

so once I replace that 3 pin plug with a dc Jack plug and charge battery from the jack plug do you think then battery will be ok on moped as it kept cutting out other day. then went altogether so had to push it home. but battery was fine when i did get home.

No you won't stop the cutting out as has been mentioned . it is highly likely the controller current rating is way above that of the battery in use. The battery is rated as 15a continuous use, when you locate the controller it will likely be rated at 20 - 25a. The battery BMS at the moment senses that over current is occurring so that is why you are getting cut outs, you can't stop the cut outs without a new battery with a higher continuous current rating or paralleling another battery with your one at the moment, doing so is another story and probably best not get in to that.

 

[billyboya]

I think the battery is insufficient for the job. That will be confirmed when you check the controller. The panel to remove is the one running along the bottom of the bike with the pedals sticking through it. You might have to remove other panels first if they overlap it.

Ok many thanks will give it a try soon

 

[billyboya]

No you won't stop the cutting out as has been mentioned . it is highly likely the controller current rating is way above that of the battery in use. The battery is rated as 15a continuous use, when you locate the controller it will likely be rated at 20 - 25a. The battery BMS at the moment senses that over current is occurring so that is why you are getting cut outs, you can't stop the cut outs without a new battery with a higher continuous current rating or paralleling another battery with your one at the moment, doing so is another story and probably best not get in to that.

So really then I would need to buy a new battery from ERider which I think is £320 I paid £350 for the moped but I suppose like flecc said there isn’t many bikes at approx £700 it just annoys me. That I didn’t check battery at 1st at sellers house. But how could I have done that. Also I don’t expect he knew either. It’s a pity I can’t find same battery but much cheaper I know AliExpress do batteries but I think I would need a 48v. 20Ah one

 

[flecc]

So really then I would need to buy a new battery from ERider which I think is £320

That new one for your model 15 from E-rider won't improve it since its only 12 Ah, so best don't consider buying it.

Although they list their model 18 as having a 20 Ah battery, the replacement they have for that is only 16 Ah, costs £380 and looks very different and might not fit. So again a dead end.

You need a different supplier for a 48 v 20Ah battery, but you'll have to organise the connectors and make sure what you buy will fit in your box.
.

 

[wheeliepete]

The batteries from Erider don't offer very good value, any battery that fits in the box and can supply the required current will work and give you better range. As flecc says, you will prob. have to change connectors to suit your bike/charger.

 

[billyboya]

That new one for your model 15 from E-rider won't improve it since its only 12 Ah, so best don't consider buying it.

Although they list their model 18 as having a 20 Ah battery, the replacement they have for that is only 16 Ah, costs £380 and looks very different and might not fit. So again a dead end.

You need a different supplier for a 48 v 20Ah battery, but you'll have to organise the connectors and make sure what you buy will fit in your box.
.

You got any cheap places lol

 

[billyboya]

The batteries from Erider don't offer very good value, any battery that fits in the box and can supply the required current will work and give you better range. As flecc says, you will prob. have to change connectors to suit your bike/charger.

So where do I get a new battery from then. AliExpress was last place I got one. But now it seems they are charging tons of shipping extra. Also what do I now do with the battery I have now