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Sorry, what's UBE?

Don't want to put you off this bike, but the first gen version was prob. the single most problematic bike I have ever read about. 18 months or so ago, it seemed like every other post on here was from someone with an electrical problem with their Carrera Crossfire. Having said that, this is the...

It looks to be the positive charge wire, it's come off the bottom string of cells where the other thick red wire is attached. There is a blob of solder there with no wire attached.

You need to fit a torque arm on both sides of the motor spindle, they will help take the strain off your weakened dropouts. Check the diameter of the motor spindle, I would expect it to be 14mm. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144137460513?hash=item218f431b21:g:EewAAOSwyudghbVy

Post a clear photo of the inside of your battery. Someone should be able to telll you where to reconnect it.

It's a shame you don't have a multimeter to test output from charger. It's really part of any ebike owners tool kit. They can be had fairly cheaply...

OK, so sounds like there is a problem with your charger or you have another duff battery, which would seem unlikely. What was the problem with your 1st battery?

Patience my friend, it says within, so should be before. Don't rely on Chinese tracking info, it's often delayed.

I was asking if you used your charger to charge battery to full before your ride.

Did you charge the battery before you went for a ride. Check the fuse on your battery if there is one, or 2.

VFR's advice above pretty much sums up how to treat your ebike battery. There is nothing wrong with reading up on lithium cells, but as he says, alot of this refers to SINGLE cell care, not packs of multiple cells controlled with a BMS, which is what we deal with here. It's very true that the...

I recon he might get a bill for repairs to the barrier. The last time a rode a bike pissed, many years ago, I ended up covered in noodles and sweet and sour sauce, don't ask, but I wasn't doing 35mph. I do hope your mate makes a full recovery SW.

You would need to completely strip the casing to weld it, plus cost of welding, so a new case would be a better option. A full strip would show up any other damage.

I'm not familiar with using this motor, but here's my thoughts. It has obviously been designed to need that rear mount to spread the loads created by the torque loads on the casing, or it would not be there. Without it, the load is increased on the casing around the bottom bracket tube, making...

Have you read this thread? https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/programming-the-onebot-s6-ebike.37030/

Sounds like it could be a pedal assist sensor issue or poss. a loose connector or damaged wire. Ask them why they think it's the motor and if they have tested the phase coils and hall sensors. If they look at you blankly, then you need to look elsewhere. It's not easy to find shops that know...

Yes, I'm sure I've heard people on here being quoted the thick end of £1000 for a towbar with electric hookup. I would imagine there is some kind of ecu involved to defeat things like blown bulb sensors that are fitted to modern cars, but I guess you would not require that for a bike rack.

Blimey, maybe they could add a little army of androids to fit it as well :)I've never heard anyone wanting a switch on their PAS, but easy enough to do yourself by cutting into the 5v wire, usually the red one.

I suspect that part of the problem is if a towbar is fitted to your vehicle any subsequent owner could assume it is capable of towing anything, so even if you find a bar to fit, you will struggle to find a company willing to fit it, due to them being held responsible for potential damage to the...

Can you not just swich the system off, rather than unplugging the PAS? assuming you have a display of some sort.