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Par for the course on many sites I'm afraid, which is why you should never take too much notice of feedback.

I don't think you will run the battery down to 37.4v even if the BMS allows this as the LVC in the controller will cut in around 40v.

It's worth noting that your battery will take 12+ hours to fully recharge with your current charger, so it might be worth taking a sandwich and maybe a sleeping bag with you on a long trip ;), but the advantage of a large battery is you charge less if your doing shorter trips, so in theory the...

As suggested to you before, you will get more help with setting up this controller on Endless Sphere where there are guys who play with this higher power stuff. Playing around with settings on these high power controllers without knowing what you are doing, you run the risk of frying it.

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threadloom/search?query=battery%20maintenance

Don't worry, I've been confused most of my life and you have 10 years on me :)I hope I have made things clearer for you. When you have the battery in front of you hopefully you will see the light.

The connectors on the battery will be the same as the 3 pin socket you have fitted to the case, so you will replace the discharge one already there and fit the one for charging. The discharge and charge leads will then fit from underneath the casing as they do now.

I still can't see the problem, if there is space for the 3 pin socket that is fitted already then there is enough clearance for the second one for the charging.

Sorry i don't get the problem, you have not mentioned a lid before, how does it fit with your existing battery?

As your bike only has 16" wheels, it's unlikely to do much more than the legal restricted speed. The motor/wheel size is the restricting factor, not any software restriction.

Do you need to charge that battery? It's not much use if it keeps cutting out.

I would try and remove the glue holding the jack connector to the box first. If you need to cut the wires, do so ONE at a time and insulate the battery side before you cut the second one, like they did on Danger UXB ;)

They should be fine, but make sure the thread is correct, test fit the bolt in the crank by hand before you fit the arm, don't force it with a spanner. I'm fairly sure all crank bolts are M8x1.0mm thread.

The 30Ah pack will be fine, but make sure it fits in your case. It measures 295x130x75mm. There will be VAT added to the £181 price on that battery, but there should be no further charges from customs. You could ask them to fit 3 pin socket to the charge wires also, which would save you work...

Yes it is, but often when fitted to an OEM bike, the software is written to the bike manufacturers spec. and some features, esp. derestriction are locked. You can fit a generic version, which may give full access to settings, but that's not always the case.

It's a power on/off switch/lock for the controller, the display shows battery voltage, neither would appear to be connected. You may need access to the BMS again, so maybe a single piece of tape over the area you have cut would be a good idea.

Both bikes are from decent companies with good reputations. If you can, test ride both and choose the one you prefer. I would expect both would suit your needs. If you plan on taking it on the train, it's prob. worth trying the folding mech. for preference, but again I would think they are very...

Looks like the throttle has been replaced on the bike at some point, the lock is part of this. As you have another switch, there is no need to use this one.

As your display looks like it's OEM supplied on a ready built bike, rather than part of a kit, you may not have access to all functions inc. speed adjustment. Here's the user manual. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1236503/Suzhou-Kunteng-Electronics-Co-Kt-Lcd5.html