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You don't need so many gears on an ebike, but it is important to get the bottom and top gears right so that you can give enough assistance when climbing, and pedal comfortably at cruising speed.

It's already been done here: https://www.avdweb.nl/solar-bike/electronics/pedelec-legalisation-device

You shouldn't need to adjust anything unless something is not working right. If you search the forum, there are loads of explanations of the settings. All KT LCDs have the same setting parameters, so look for LCD3 settings.

You can't leave out the word "rated". Rated means what the design engineer decides and orders to be put on the label or listing. When the engineer does the rating, they have to take into account the durability of the motor as well as the temperature stability, so any self-respecting engineer...

Where do you live? Is it Armyn, W. Yorks?

If the numeric value doesn't change when you put different loads on the pedal, your torque sensor is not working.

Does it have a speed sensor in it, and have you set the LCD to one magnet in the speed sensor setting?

Can't you measure it with a ruler? I think that's what most of us would do.

If you need a direct replacement without soldering, we need to see the connector on the other end of the wire and how long the wire is. You should ask a friend/relative who has some DIY skills to sort this out if you can't do it yourself.

It doesn't really matter what it's called. It has standard Chinese parts, so everything is replaceable or upgradeable if you don't like it how it is. The plastic battery cases don't seem to be available anymore, but you can squeeze a normal silver fish cell-pack in there, or you can get it...

For 15 mph modal speed, you need around 260 rpm for big wheels, 330 rpm for 20" and 400 rpm for 16".

I showed you how to figure it out when they don't tell you. You can ask Woosh about the max speed of their motors. you need to compare that with your desired modal riding speed. As I said, ideal is 1.3 times your desired modal speed.

If it worked after you installed it, it's not likely that any settings need to be changed. Most likely you haven't pushed in the 9-pin motor connector far enough. It has to be in all the way to the line, not just in tight.

Have a look at the motor connector under the left side chainstay. Some have the wires too tight, which pulls the connector apart and breaks contact. This causes the elctrical system to shut down.

I can guarantee that if you drink a pint a day, you'll never catch covid, so 100% protection, but why waste it, when it would be much better on your chain contributing to a healthy lifestyle? Regarding environmental impact, yes, it has a big positive impact because when your chain goes rusty...

Hypoid 90 gear oil. Put a few drops on your chain every now and again to protect it from moisture.

You need to trace where the orange goes to, then you can see what other wires are on that connector.

Use logic. If the halls are stuck on 5v, you can reasonably deduce that they're shagged. If they're all suck on 0v, there's probably another reason, like no 5v supply.

Your charger doesn't have a kettle plug from the mains. Instead, it's hard wired with no detatchable lead. Most chargers have a detachable mains lead, but not yours, so nothing to worry about.

Each motor has it's own inherent top speed, which is designed into it. You can't make a motor go faster by giving it more power. The motor's actual speed depends on the volts applied to it, so the same motor will go 30% faster with 48v than with 36v, which is not necessarily a good thing...