New build.

[103Alex1]

Understood. Many thanks . Haven't bled brakes before and they would normally be bled on-bike (apparently) - just had a momentary vision of Monty Python moments with fluid spraying out all over kitchen, bike and me when cable cut . Must get some empty boxes cleared from garage to make space for adventures ahead so can retreat to safe territory and relax a bit more !

 

[Old_Dave]

just had a momentary vision of

Lol

Ok.. hint of the day, do not squeeze the brake lever when cutting the pipe, nor after the pipe is cut..
just have a small container such a best cup / mug / tupperware to catch the drips

This will avoid the new pebble dash effect in your kitchen

EDIT:- O'h and don't forget to wash out thoroughly whatever container you used, as brake fluid flavour is an acquired taste and generally not acceptable to to non mechanic members of the house hold.. much in the same way as the taste of diesel.

 

[Scimitar]

I like the Magura switch.

But it isn't £2 ;-)

You know what is though? A hydraulic brake -light switch from older cars if you go rooting around the breakers.

 

[amigafan2003]

You know what is though? A hydraulic brake -light switch from older cars if you go rooting around the breakers.

But you'd have to buy a t-peice as well and thread adaptors (as car brake lines are typically M10 and bike hydraulics are M6/M8 fine pitch)

 

[103Alex1]

Just about to order the Magura switch to fit on Shimano hydraulic disc brake cable. Found this on-line installation guide ... it does say on there that the pressure switch works as a closer and that the "console of the motor" (controller ?) would "eventually have to be reprogrammed to detect the signal".

http://www.bike-components.de/bedienungsanleitungen/2011/magura/felgenbremsen/druckschalter-mit-bion-x-stecker-fuer-alle-magura-bremsen.pdf

It's pretty pricey this thing so just want to be as sure as I can be that it will fit to my shimano brake cabling, won't otherwise mess up the braking function and that it's going to be able to be used with the controller I have (KU123). Are those more knowledgeable on such matters pretty confident this should work ? I've tried e-mailing the seller with compatibility query but they didn't reply.

 

[amigafan2003]

Nearly all controllers expect a normally open switch that closes when the brakes are pressed. You can test your controller by just joining the two brake sensor wires together and see if the motor stops.

Them saying "the pressure switch works as a closer" sounds like the switch you require.

If you email them about compatibility they'll say it's only compatible with BionX kits and Magura brakes.

If you order and it isn't suitable just state you're returning the item under Distance Selling Regulations.

 

[Old_Dave]

Attention: the pressure switch works as closer, i.e. a contact is closed when brake pressure is applied.

That will work fine.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It'll work OK with your controller.

There was a discussion on ES about them when a guy found that his stopped working. The cause was his hydraulic fluid. You have to have the right type, i.e. mineral oil, not the normal DOT 4 oil, so best to drain your whole system if you're not sure what it is.

 

[103Alex1]

It'll work OK with your controller.

There was a discussion on ES about them when a guy found that his stopped working. The cause was his hydraulic fluid. You have to have the right type, i.e. mineral oil, not the normal DOT 4 oil, so best to drain your whole system if you're not sure what it is.

OK. Thanks. In stock and ordered.

 

[103Alex1]

Bike is fitted with a three speed switch, position 1 is set to 16mph, which I used around peds when the prom is busy, speed 2 which I use to extend range or when there is a stiff headwind or it's really cold (doing 25mph in sub zero temps things get a bit nippy) and speed 3 is set to 115% - which is 25mph assuming neutral wind.

...

The bike is fitted with a "failsafe". If I'm more than 1m from the bike, the bike defaults to, and cannot be brought out of, speed setting 1 - or 16mph.

amigafan, can you give us a bit more info on how this actually works ? I seem to recall from somewhere that you adapted an immobilizer or something like that .. do you use a remote control or something ?

 

[amigafan2003]

I've taken VR from Hewlett Packard so as I don't need the bike to commute anymore I've decided to use a bit of the VR package and splash out on some new kit for the bike. So I've sold the Q100 wheel and Lyen Mini Monster controller and ordered the following from EM3ev:-

Upgraded EM3ev Mac Motor , 500/1000W
- Controller Type: 9 fet 30A (36-72V, IRFB4110)
- Motor Speed: 255rpm loaded (10T)
- Wheel Type: 700C Alex DH19 CNC
V3 Cycle Analyst Ebike Computer, CA-DPS
EB3 Program Cable EB3PRGM

That should be fun

I've also decided to build the battery into the frame like d8veh. I'll take some photos of the build when all the bits arrive.

 

[bilabonic]

Ok, so I've aquired a Trek FX 7.5 on the cycle2work scheme and in a bid to encourage me to cylce to work more (9 miles each way) I've been researching electric kits to do this bike justice.

This is what I've ordered:-

Tongxin 190rpm hub with disc mount.
Lyen mini monster controller.
Thumb throttle + cruise control from Lyen.
Torque arm and dropout washers from ebikesca.

I will be ordering one of the 36v15ah lipo shrink wrap batteries from BMS battery on pay day.

All in the above should weigh in at 5.5kg - nice and light weight and should give me 25miles range, easily enough for my commute without a charge at work.

First to arrive was the motor which I acquired via ebay. I then ordered some Halo DB black spokes and a Mavic A-319 rim to lace it into.

Spokes in place.

It's been years since I built a wheel (worked at a bike shop when I was 15yrs to 19yrs old).

3hrs later and I'm quite happy with that - proof of the pudding will be riding it though!

That's it for now - waiting for delivery of the bike later this week then I can start looking at how to mount the controller and fitting the throttle/cruise control etc and start working out my cable runs.

More photos to follow as the build progresses.

What's the advantage of the Tongxin 190rpm hub with disc mount instead of a BMS CST or BPM motor ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

In the early days of hub-motors, many were rough and lossy. The Tongxin stood out because it had rollers rather than gears, which made it smoother and less rolling resistance, but it couldn't make high torque because the rollers slip, which can also cause more severe consequential damage. It became a favourite for people that wanted a light-weight low power bike. Now the competitors have moved on. Modern geared hub-motors no longer have any significant drag. The Dapu motor in the Oxygen and Wisper bikes are incredibly smooth and quiet, but don't have any of the disadvantages of the Tongxin. Even the humble Bafangs and other similar are pretty good these days. If you want light-weight, the Q100 has stollen a lot of Tongxin sales because it can run reliably at much higher power, and it has very little drag because the whole motor including the gears disengages during free-wheeling.

So, IMHO, the Tongxin has had its day. That's not to say it's a bad motor. It's just that it's lost the advantages that it had.

The Bafang CST and BPMs are completely different to the Tongxin. They're real brutes and can give four times the power. They weigh twice as much. They're just the motor for you if, like me, you've eaten a few pies too many, or if you're lazy, or if you want to sustain a higher speed than 15mph.

 

[cwah]

yup bigger motor such as BPM or Mac are really good if you're lazy.

My 8T mac on my brompton can eat a 60 degree slope better than this car:
[video=youtube;ixnV2UgyD5w]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixnV2UgyD5w[/video]

 

[jerrysimon]

So, IMHO, the Tongxin has had its day.

I still think the smaller narrow width Tongxin/Keyde motors have a market for small wheeled/folding bikes. But I agree if weight is not an issue I would use another motor. The roller bearings do of course also make them quieter if stealth is required.

It will be interesting to see as time goes on and iif motors get even smaller whether they have a place in light weight road bikes i.e. Cytronex style.

Jerry

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's a Q75 now from BMSBattery. It's tiny at 1.2 kg. If they made a back one with a cassette spline. it would make a very nice 2 wheel drive for ultimate stealth with reasonable climbing power.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/564-q75-front-driving-hub-motor-with-s06p-controller.html

 

[cwah]

Although a Q75 on the brompton would still be a challenge with non standard rear dropout and derailleur

 

[Geebee]

The other advantage of the Tongxin is that it is a "geared" drive that is basically silent, I like that on a bike and especially on a recumbent trike where your head can be very close to the wheel.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The other advantage of the Tongxin is that it is a "geared" drive that is basically silent, I like that on a bike and especially on a recumbent trike where your head can be very close to the wheel.

The reputation of the Tongxin is years out of date. Whether you're talking about smoothness, quietness or size, things have moved on, but the Tongxin hasn't. What I'm saying is that the Tongxin is still suitable for limited applications, but you can probably find a better motor for every one of them.

 

[cwah]

has the cute100 improved over the years??