!!!!! HELP me with my 26" Bafang Rear Wheel Build please !!!!!

[103Alex1]

Or this way ? It will tighten that bolt/nut when put under pressure when wheel powered.

As in the 2nd photo. After hole drilled, naturally

 

[bilabonic]

That's the disc side done (will cut off excess metal), i may also add a few stainless tacks between the two torque arms.

 

[Sacko]

Just caught up with this, looking good so far

Once the wheel is in, and true; it's all plain sailing. Should be good to go soon.

The battery foam/package you have made looks good too.

 

[bilabonic]

Bit of a butcher job on this side, there is a nice convenient 5mm threaded hole on the frame but the torque arm does not reach it (main part).

 

[103Alex1]

Bit of a butcher job on this side, there is a nice convenient 5mm threaded hole on the frame but the torque arm does not reach it (main part).

Looks fine - it's probably belt & braces having two anyway, although perhaps running that motor on higher voltage it's more important so better on the safe side if you have them anyway. I only used one running similar at 36V and it's plenty enough.

 

[bilabonic]

While i am waiting for my tyres can someone advise on what wires are for the brakes on the controller ?

I will be using the pressure switches linked earlier, two wire input, not sure if they are N/O or N/C ?

Are there two separate inputs on the controller ? Or are they just in series ??


ALSO where do i connect the yellow wire on throttle for indication ???

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 4366]

While i am waiting for my tyres can someone advise on what wires are for the brakes on the controller ?

I will be using the pressure switches linked earlier, two wire input, not sure if they are N/O or N/C ?

Are there two separate inputs on the controller ? Or are they just in series ??

ALSO where do i connect the yellow wire on throttle for indication ???

Cheers

The brake wires go to the brake connector (White 2-way with yellow and black wires). Switch closed - no power; switch open - power. The hydraulic switches are NO. Sometimes they give two connectors on the controller. If not, you can parallel the switches for either/or. Personally, I'd only fit one on the back brake to save a lot of hassle. Yellow wire goes to any battery +ve. It uses the throttle ground, so the throttle has to be connected for it to work.

 

[bilabonic]

These are what i have left on the controller, all the brakes i have are black/red wires and fit the blue and yellow socket on controller, is this the brake ?

Also what are the white pair and blue pair of shorting wires for ?

Single blue wire ?

Blue/black/green socket ?

Red/yellow/black socket ?



Cheers

 

[103Alex1]

On the switches if it's the KU123 and is same as mine, the hydraulic switch coupled to the Low Voltage Brake Wire connector (I only used one) - Blue / Yellow - so am presuming two would need to be connected in parallel to the same controller input wires ?

The HVBW controller input only had a 1-pin connector on it not 2, so not sure this is intended to work with this sort of switch.

The switches come with BionX DC male connectors on (I couldn't find any compatible females to use on the controller), so presume you need to splice directly into the controller wires - unless you use an alternative 2-way connector pair to substitute on both brake switch input and controller, or else a compatible connector coupling for the brake switch outputs which works with the LVBW connector on the controller (which is what I'm using on my rear brake switch).

 

[103Alex1]

These are what i have left on the controller, all the brakes i have are black/red wires and fit the blue and yellow socket on controller, is this the brake ?

Also what are the white pair and blue pair of shorting wires for ?

Single blue wire ?

Blue/black/green socket ?

Red/yellow/black socket ?



Cheers

Blue / yellow = Low voltage brake switch ... used with the Magura / BionX inline switch

Single blue with same connector as blue / yellow = high voltage brake switch

Red / Yellow / Black = for HWBS (used on cable brakes)

Blue/Black/Green - 3sp switch (only used if you've connected the PAS) ... I think ... it's odd as this has a different connector on than the one which came with my controller. The connector on yours is like the one on my throttle wires.

The white pair is speed limiter - connected = limited / disconnected = unrestricted

The 2 single blue wires with black connectors on are for the controller cruise control (i.e. the one which kicks in if the throttle is held in same position for several seconds). Connected is functional / disconnected is disabled.

 

[vhfman]

I was going to get some of the Magura / BionX hydraulic brake switches, until I realized that my brakes are Avid and use Dot brake fluid. Not the mineral oil that the Magura brakes systems use.

I have read that others have had problems with the switch failing after a short period if used with brake systems using the Dot fluid.

Just something to look out for if your brake system is not using mineral oil; the 2 brake fluids are not compatible, the Dot fluid is corrosive on the wrong types of seals and parts.

I’ve had to improvise my brake cut-out using magnetic reed sensor switches.

I think the Dot fluid is used in Avid, Formula, Hope and Hayes systems, and the mineral oil is used in Magura and Shimano systems. I believe they are not interchangeable and you wreck your seals and brake system if you try.

Chris

 

[103Alex1]

Good thought. Looked it up in the manufacturer's operating instructions and it says that Clarks Skeletal brakes use DOT fluid - which cannot be used with the Magura Switch (needs mineral oil or will be wrecked and people have had experiences of this happening very quickly). So in that sense it seems they are not "same as Magura / Shimano" after all .

But I thought the problem was that you cannot put dot 3/4 in mineral oil systems not that you cannot put mineral oil in dot 3/4 systems. I understood that it was putting DOT fluid into systems designed for mineral oil that causes corrosion to internal seals which may lead to brake failure, not putting mineral oil into DOT systems.

EDIT :- found this which might help. As per usual - opinions differ, but some interesting experiential info there which might be helpful ... worst case seems to be that it could damage the seals especially in calipers used with DOT 3/4 ... most likely over a period of time, but could be faster in practice with systems previously exposed to DOT 3/4 :


http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/anyone-tried-mineral-oil-brake-system-recommended-use-dot-fluid-723804.html

Seems the path to combi-shifter retention on eBikes rarely does run smooth

 

[bilabonic]

'Blue/Black/Green - 3sp switch (only used if you've connected the PAS) ... I think ... it's odd as this has a different connector on than the one which came with my controller. The connector on yours is like the one on my throttle wires.
'
I have left the PAS sensor out of the pic as i knew what it was, so not sure what it's for ??

My brakes recommend DOT fluid but i will be using mineral, i am also certain the the fluid that was in the brakes was already mineral.

 

[103Alex1]

I have left the PAS sensor out of the pic as i knew what it was, so not sure what it's for ??

I've dug out the bag of wires I desoldered off my controller PCB board - they are all labelled up still with masking tape tags !

As follows :

PAS wire - this is a black/green/red with a small black connector on it

3sp switch - green / black / blue - with a white connector on it

So the one in your photo is the stock 3sp switch connector - if you use it.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Pretty good Alex apart from the 3 speed switch, which only works on the throttle. You can get a bit more speed at full throttle by connecting the black wire to one of the other twoo.

 

[103Alex1]

Pretty good Alex apart from the 3 speed switch, which only works on the throttle. You can get a bit more speed at full throttle by connecting the black wire to one of the other twoo.

Never did understand that 3-speed switch ! I remember plugging it in to the controller at the start to try it with the throttle connected but it didn't seem to generate the outputs expected as far as measured speed are concerned. Figured maybe it didn't really work with my controller / motor combo.

 

[bilabonic]

So whats the point of the 3-speed switch, will short out the connection later and see if speed increases.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The three-speed switch only affects full throttle operation. In the low position, it limits speed to about 15mph. In the high position, it can give a speed boost up to 20%, and in the middle position, it does nothing.

 

[bilabonic]

The three-speed switch only affects full throttle operation. In the low position, it limits speed to about 15mph. In the high position, it can give a speed boost up to 20%, and in the middle position, it does nothing.

I'll plug it in and short them out now, going to remove redundant wires at the controller board like alex did and seal it better with silicone/glue gun.

Would you recommend fitting of the cruise control or is it dangerous/waste of time ?

EDIT - Black-Blue Decreased speed, Black-Green No effect.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Did you check the effect of black-green at full-throttle?
I wouldn't recommend joining the cruise control blue wires. It's a great idea, but doesn't work very well in practice, and could be dangerous. I scared myself a few times when I tried it because it latches on whenever you use full throttle. It's difficult to engage at anything less, which is where you want it.