!!!!! HELP me with my 26" Bafang Rear Wheel Build please !!!!!

Hi All

 

After much reading and googling i have had my kit delivered this morning

 

Can not believe the weight of the wheel !!

 

Also there are NO INSTRUCTIONS at all ????

 

Anyway this is the kit i had -

 

1. BAFANG BPM 36V500W REAR DRIVING BIKE CONVERSION KIT - 26" / 201 RP - £112

Bafang BPM 36V500W Rear Driving Bike Conversion Kit - BMSBATTERY

 

2. 14-28 TEETH FREEWHEEL - - 7 SPEED - £5

14-28 Teeth Freewheel - BMSBATTERY

 

3. A PAIR OF EBIKE TORQUE ARM - 10

EBike Torque Arm

 

4. TWIST GRIP THROTTLE -£1

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=36928

 

6. HWBS - HIDDEN WIRE BRAKE SENSOR 1PCS - £4

HWBS - Hidden Wire Brake Sensor 1pcs - BMSBATTERY

 

 

Don't know where to start...lol

 

This is the 18" bike i am using -

 

Carrera Kraken Review - BikeRadar

 

First off i noticed there is no rim tape on the wheel ?

 

So going to get some 19mm of this -

 

VELOX BIKE WHEELS CLOTH RIM TAPE - (Sizes: 10, 13, 16, 19, 22 mm) | eBay

 

Also getting a set of these tyres - 26x 1.75"

 

Schwalbe Marathon Plus Smartguard Rigid Tyre All Sizes | eBay

 

What do you reckon ?

 

Cheers

Or these 2" ?

 

Schwalbe Marathon Plus ATB 26x2.00 Smartguard Wired Tyre (50-559) - TYS11100576 | eBay

I'll leave the kit fitting advice to those who've fitted the BPM kits.

 

If you're going to do some riding off-road with that ideal bike for it, the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre comes in other tread patterns more suitable for that than the road pattern you've linked to.

 

Crossover road and off-road version

 

Full off-road version

I'll leave the kit fitting advice to those who've fitted the BPM kits.

 

If you're going to do some riding off-road with that ideal bike for it, the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre comes in other tread patterns more suitable for that than the road pattern you've linked to.

 

Crossover road and off-road version

 

Full off-road version

 

I will only be commuting, so faster/slicker the better, i have another mountain bike for off road.

 

The rear Bafang wheel states 26" x 1.5 " do i get that size ?

 

The existing tyres are 26" x 1.75" ??

 

Cheers

Also had x3 twist grip throttles ? All are half twist.

 

Which one of these is best ? Read somewhere about water entering them with LED type ??

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/romanski/755F9601-105A-442C-AAE9-E2436EB7877B-6837-0000076A428D2490_zps09e78ee4.jpg

Just opened up the controller as others have suggested to check the value of the capacitors and as others have found the pcb is not situated in the slider/holder.

 

I am sure this is done on purpose, when fitted correctly there are connections virtually touching the case.

 

Anyone noticed this ?

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/romanski/c7eaf46f-9b0c-4c43-af47-9004cbdbf875_zps15939ee9.jpg

I had exactly the same. Take the board out and slide the PCB back onto the 'shelf'.

 

I also put some sheet inbetween the board and the case.

 

Out of the throttle, I used the top; but the LED one will probs do the same.

 

I have just bought 2 x Maxxis Hookworms 26". 2 for £50 delivered. I used the Schwalbe Big Apples and didn't really rate them.

 

I also use tyre liners, work really well.

 

Its real easy to fit, just mount one part at a time and ill guide you through the rest when needed.

That controller's bad. The pcb should be in the slot on the side opposite the FETs, but not in the FET side. You have to take out the three screws in the side to extract it.

 

The tyres should be OK. If you want best performance, Schwalbe City Jets 26 x 1.95 are good, but not puncture proof.

 

Your first job is to try-fit the back wheel. The anti-rotation washers go on the inside of the drop-outs. Check whether the rim's central. If not, you have to dish it. Even if you don''t need to dish it, you have to check and tighten the spokes. For that you need a 13G spoke key. The ones BMSBattery sell are pretty good. You can get similar ones on Ebay, but it's a bit of a lottery how good they fit. Just thought. Don't dish it 'til you've sorted the free-wheel. See below.

 

Next thing to think about is a cobalt drill to drill the torque arm. Either get a set (always useful) or at least 3mm and 5mm. They're fairly cheap on Ebay, but make sure you get 5% cobalt, not cobalt coated.

 

Don't waste your time with the pedal sensor. It'll be too fierce. Maybe later think about one of those £60 750w Conhismotor controllers with LCD display and variable PAS.

 

You might have trouble fitting those throttles. If you do, I've got the small thumb throttle that fits. I ordered a couple as spares with my last battery.

 

The 14T free-wheel will be too low. You might as well order a 11T one from Cyclezee now. It'll save a lot of messing about later. I think he has two types. The DNP one needs spacers, so you might be better off with the other one whatever it is. Ask to check the stack-height. The 7 speed BMSBattery one is 35mm and requires two washers as spacers. The DNP one is 39mm, so as well as needing a 6mm spacer, it'll be a tight squeeze to fit it between your drop-outs.

Which battery did you get?

^^ 44.4v 15ah Turnigy lipo (6 x 6s 5000)

I will only be commuting, so faster/slicker the better, i have another mountain bike for off road.

 

The rear Bafang wheel states 26" x 1.5 " do i get that size ?

 

The existing tyres are 26" x 1.75" ??

 

Cheers

 

Either will be ok, but since the stiff Marathon Plus tyres are on the uncomfortable side due to the thick protective inner layer, I'd prefer the larger width at a slightly lower pressure.

I run 2.1 26" Marathon Plus MTB tyres on that 1.5 rim from BMS. Tight, but no problem fitting it. You can comfortably go anything up to that or maybe even a little higher if you wanted to. So basically choose the tyre you want and it should be fine.

When i put the controller as it should be fitted the main live shorts to the casing !!!

 

I have put a few layers of insulation tape on bottom of the board to support it and insulate it.

 

Got cobalt bits from drilling copper in work.

 

The freewheel i have is as you say 14-28t and is indeed 35mm.

 

Bit confused as the best route to go with this, i understand the need for 11t at higher speeds.

 

Cyclezee supply DNP Freewheel 7 speed 11/32t ?

 

Unsure of the best route to go....Will have a play later.

 

Cheers guys.

The 11t is the way to go, and not too bad for £25.

 

At 30mph though, chances are you wont want to be pedaling much. I would try the cheap freewheel and see how you find it.

What numbers or info is written on the hub casing?

The other possibility is a 52T or 53T on the front, but that means messing about with your front derailleur, and makes a chain-guard tricky.

I remember having a 11-23t on my road bike, fast but could not get up hills.

 

Think i will get the 11t first as last, never knew they done them for mountain bikes.

 

Wurly the wheel is a code 11

 

Why is everyone getting 2" or 2.1" tyres ? Is there a reason for this ?? Weight perhaps ???

 

I am mainly from a road bike background and always rode 23c tyres. Less surface area the more efficient.

 

That's why i am considering the 1.75" marathons ?

Why is everyone getting 2" or 2.1" tyres ? Is there a reason for this ?? Weight perhaps ???

 

I am mainly from a road bike background and always rode 23c tyres. Less surface area the more efficient.

 

That's why i am considering the 1.75" marathons ?

 

As Schwalbe themselves point out, this isn't necessarily true. For a given pressure the narrow tyre has a longer contact patch, the wider tyre a shorter but wider contact patch, both equal in area. To make the narrow tyre more efficient through a smaller contact patch requires a higher pressure, adding to discomfort, and on the stiff Marathon Plus tyres that can mean a more uncomfortable ride from the unsprung rear of your bike.

Why is everyone getting 2" or 2.1" tyres ? Is there a reason for this ?? Weight perhaps ???

 

I am mainly from a road bike background and always rode 23c tyres. Less surface area the more efficient.

 

That's why i am considering the 1.75" marathons ?

 

Guess it's the different mindset - you're not going to beat any speed records on an eBike (even a 500W job) so the relative discomfort and need for higher tyre pressure in skinny tyres goes against the general tide of a comfortable ride at lower max speeds than a racing bike where you suffer in silence to be super-fast, something you give up the minute you fit a big motor and battery on your bike.

 

Edit : - crossed with flecc

 

You can run lower pressures on bigger tyres to get more ride comfort and definitely better setup for bad road conditions or using on off-road or semi-offroad routes. I run 1.75s on my 700C with good front suspension and it's fine locked out on lovely tarmac, but still relatively grot belting along rubbish road surfaces with grilles, potholes and the usual urban / semi-urban conditions at 15-20mph. The big fat MTB tyres on 26" MTB are far more comfortable ride, even in town.... albeit the MTB saddle and riding position ensure the comfort from the tyres is negated by the frame geometry. So bringing you about full-circle to make sure one way or another you don't get it all !

Edited April 22, 201313 yr by 103Alex1

I remember having a 11-23t on my road bike, fast but could not get up hills.

 

You didn't have 1500w of battery power helping you. With a 14T top gear, you'll be in top all the time, and you simply won't be able to pedal fast enough to keep up with the motor. It'll make more sense as soon as you start riding it.

 

A bit of a result getting the code 11. That should give about 25mph without pedalling with 12S lipos.

According to your link on your first post you asked for a 201 rpm? they sent you a code 11???

I think they made a mistake and sent you a 328rpm. It really is down to luck of the draw with BMSBattery, you never know what you are going to get.

Code 11 will be pretty fast, 11t freewheel is what you need and you'll need to wire up the speed switch.

According to your link on your first post you asked for a 201 rpm? they sent you a code 11???

I think they made a mistake and sent you a 328rpm. It really is down to luck of the draw with BMSBattery, you never know what you are going to get.

Code 11 will be pretty fast, 11t freewheel is what you need and you'll need to wire up the speed switch.

 

Which one is the speed switch ?

 

Is that the one with 3 wires and you short to outer two to find the fastest speed ?

 

I also have a pair of red wires with male/female ends as if you can short them ? Is this the speed limit to 15mph ??

 

Cheers

The red wires are for 48v. Disconnected is 48v. Connected is 36v. You should leave then disconnected for the low voltage control to protect your lipos.

 

You won't need to use the 3-speed switch , as you'll already be going as fast as the motor can efficiently manage.

I was suggesting wiring up a 3 speed switch to slow it down. if you want to ride flat out leave it disconnected but there will be times when you only want a small amount of assistance especially to match your pedalling speed.

The two white wires connect a resistor in the controller throttle circuit (speed limit) and connecting one of the other colours(blue i think) to black in the 3speed switch will alter the PWM effectively reducing throttle. I wired mine up using a combination of these colours to give me low med and full power.

Criuse control (two blue wires) is very useful, i use mine all the time. Adjust the throttle to where you need press a momo switch once and you have criuse. Don't use it unless you have brakes cutouts though :0)

I also notice most people just link the small red (sometimes orange) in the same supply plug, is this not the switched live for the controller ?

 

Would i be better off using this as a form off isolation ie on/off as i have no switch ?

 

Or just link it in with main live and disconnect batteries (only 2 plugs).

 

Not sure what to do with regards braking.

 

I will not be fitting those el cheapo brakes with in built sensor as i have hydraulic brakes.

 

I was supplied a 'king meter' branded type sensor that looks like you run a brake cable through it.

 

How does that work/sense cable movement ?

 

.

I also notice most people just link the small red (sometimes orange) in the same supply plug, is this not the switched live for the controller ?

 

Would i be better off using this as a form off isolation ie on/off as i have no switch ?

 

Or just link it in with main live and disconnect batteries (only 2 plugs).

 

Not sure what to do with regards braking.

 

I will not be fitting those el cheapo brakes with in built sensor as i have hydraulic brakes.

 

I was supplied a 'king meter' branded type sensor that looks like you run a brake cable through it.

 

How does that work/sense cable movement ?

 

.

There's a thin red wire that goes alongside the thick red and black wires from the controller to the three-way power connector. That wire has to be connected to the battery +ve for the controller to give power, so it works as a "standby" control if you put a switch on it. The controller still takes a small current when on standby, so don't use it as a permanent on/off switch or else you'll brick your lipos.

 

The easiest solution for the brakes is to swap the rear caliper for a cable one. I think Juicybike sell hydraulic brakes with switches as a spare part at about £100 each. You only need a switch on the back brake as a minimum.

 

The "hidden wire" brake sensors are a bit of a mystery. They're sealed so you can't see what's inside. All I can say is that you pass the cable through them, and they work perfectly.

 

 

For a main isolate switch, you could have a go at making one of these. You can buy the FETs from Ebay relatively cheaply, and the rest you can get from Maplin. You don't need a pcb. You can drill a piece of thin plywood and hard-wire the components on the back, or use a bit of Veroboard from Maplin.

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/d8veh/General%20bike/Simple20soft20start20ebike20power20switch20schematic20-20small1.jpg

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/d8veh/General%20bike/20120627_204707.jpg