!!!!! HELP me with my 26" Bafang Rear Wheel Build please !!!!!

[bilabonic]

According to your link on your first post you asked for a 201 rpm? they sent you a code 11???
I think they made a mistake and sent you a 328rpm. It really is down to luck of the draw with BMSBattery, you never know what you are going to get.
Code 11 will be pretty fast, 11t freewheel is what you need and you'll need to wire up the speed switch.

Which one is the speed switch ?

Is that the one with 3 wires and you short to outer two to find the fastest speed ?

I also have a pair of red wires with male/female ends as if you can short them ? Is this the speed limit to 15mph ??

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The red wires are for 48v. Disconnected is 48v. Connected is 36v. You should leave then disconnected for the low voltage control to protect your lipos.

You won't need to use the 3-speed switch , as you'll already be going as fast as the motor can efficiently manage.

 

[wurly]

I was suggesting wiring up a 3 speed switch to slow it down. if you want to ride flat out leave it disconnected but there will be times when you only want a small amount of assistance especially to match your pedalling speed.
The two white wires connect a resistor in the controller throttle circuit (speed limit) and connecting one of the other colours(blue i think) to black in the 3speed switch will alter the PWM effectively reducing throttle. I wired mine up using a combination of these colours to give me low med and full power.
Criuse control (two blue wires) is very useful, i use mine all the time. Adjust the throttle to where you need press a momo switch once and you have criuse. Don't use it unless you have brakes cutouts though :0)

 

[bilabonic]

I also notice most people just link the small red (sometimes orange) in the same supply plug, is this not the switched live for the controller ?

Would i be better off using this as a form off isolation ie on/off as i have no switch ?

Or just link it in with main live and disconnect batteries (only 2 plugs).

Not sure what to do with regards braking.

I will not be fitting those el cheapo brakes with in built sensor as i have hydraulic brakes.

I was supplied a 'king meter' branded type sensor that looks like you run a brake cable through it.

How does that work/sense cable movement ?

.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I also notice most people just link the small red (sometimes orange) in the same supply plug, is this not the switched live for the controller ?

Would i be better off using this as a form off isolation ie on/off as i have no switch ?

Or just link it in with main live and disconnect batteries (only 2 plugs).

Not sure what to do with regards braking.

I will not be fitting those el cheapo brakes with in built sensor as i have hydraulic brakes.

I was supplied a 'king meter' branded type sensor that looks like you run a brake cable through it.

How does that work/sense cable movement ?

.

There's a thin red wire that goes alongside the thick red and black wires from the controller to the three-way power connector. That wire has to be connected to the battery +ve for the controller to give power, so it works as a "standby" control if you put a switch on it. The controller still takes a small current when on standby, so don't use it as a permanent on/off switch or else you'll brick your lipos.

The easiest solution for the brakes is to swap the rear caliper for a cable one. I think Juicybike sell hydraulic brakes with switches as a spare part at about £100 each. You only need a switch on the back brake as a minimum.

The "hidden wire" brake sensors are a bit of a mystery. They're sealed so you can't see what's inside. All I can say is that you pass the cable through them, and they work perfectly.


For a main isolate switch, you could have a go at making one of these. You can buy the FETs from Ebay relatively cheaply, and the rest you can get from Maplin. You don't need a pcb. You can drill a piece of thin plywood and hard-wire the components on the back, or use a bit of Veroboard from Maplin.

 

[sal_park]

Hi All


Don't know where to start...lol

This is the 18" bike i am using -

Carrera Kraken Review - BikeRadar

Bit late, but you may find my thread here useful as I've just (last month) fitted this exact kit with the torque arms from BMS to an '18 Kraken (probably older than yours - it's a 2006 model).

hth

sp

 

[103Alex1]

I think Juicybike sell hydraulic brakes with switches as a spare part at about £100 each.

Cheaper to fit the Magura in-line switch to existing hydraulic brakes than buy new hydraulic brakes with built-in switch ?

BionX Press Switch for Magura brakes | enables motor cut-off even for hydraulic brakes

 

[bilabonic]

Bit late, but you may find my thread here useful as I've just (last month) fitted this exact kit with the torque arms from BMS to an '18 Kraken (probably older than yours - it's a 2006 model).

hth

sp

'First reason to remove the wheel: best to remove this packing piece before putting on the brake disc'

I have left this on.

 

[bilabonic]

Gutted, Cyclezee have not got the 11t in stock.

Which wires do i use for the hall sensors coming from motor.

I was supplied a plug and 3 male pins but it does not fit anything on the controller ?

 

[bilabonic]

Gutted, Cyclezee have not got the 11t in stock.

Which wires do i use for the hall sensors coming from motor.

I was supplied a plug and 3 male pins but it does not fit anything on the controller ?

Oh, looks like they just plug in here -



Not sure what the plug supplied is for.....

 

[Sacko]

There is a plastic casing for the pins. Im sure it is in the small cardboard box, with a little bag of pieces in there.

 

[Sacko]

I bought my DNP freewheel from here.

Schraubkranz 7-fach 11-30 Zähne-aefw30117c1

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There is a plastic casing for the pins. Im sure it is in the small cardboard box, with a little bag of pieces in there.

Normally in the little bag with the wheel-nuts.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I bought my DNP freewheel from here.

Schraubkranz 7-fach 11-30 Zähne-aefw30117c1

The 14.9 Euros shipping is a bit of a bummer. When I ordered from them I ordered two and the free-wheel tool that made it relatively less. Even their free-wheel tool is relatively expensive, but at least you know it fits.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Just found them here at what looks like only $32 inc. shipping:
ComCycle USA

another 8 spd here:
DNP Epoch 8 Speed 8S Bicycle Freewheel Cog 11-32T Cassette For MTB Fold Bike | eBay

 

[shemozzle999]

Sunrace 9 speed $26 delivered

Free Shipping multi speed bicycle freewheel,9 Speed,11 32T,Ultralight Freewheel on Aliexpress.com

 

[bilabonic]

Cheaper to fit the Magura in-line switch to existing hydraulic brakes than buy new hydraulic brakes with built-in switch ?

BionX Press Switch for Magura brakes | enables motor cut-off even for hydraulic brakes

Anybody used these ?

Presume they are some sort of pressure switch.

 

[103Alex1]

Yes I fitted one to my Trek. They are a simple inline pressure switch, yes. You just need to replace the Bionx connector with one which can couple to your controller. I used it because I have combined XT shifters/brake levers and hydraulic disc brakes, so it was the only real option as I didn't want to lose my decent brakes and replace shifters for both. It turned out to be a good one.

There's a whole thread on it here :

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/13829-magura-hydraulic-brake-cut-off-switch.html

It's pretty straightforward with the benefit of hindsight - I'd never worked on brakes before fitting it so there's a lot of newbie questions in there . Also I'd cut off the connector and splice in any longer cabling / wires further away from the switch as it's fiddly to work up there. Gives you more flexibility in the cable routing without putting a strain on the connections doing it that way.

 

[bilabonic]

Yes I fitted one to my Trek. They are a simple inline pressure switch, yes. You just need to replace the Bionx connector with one which can couple to your controller. I used it because I have combined XT shifters/brake levers and hydraulic disc brakes, so it was the only real option as I didn't want to lose my decent brakes and replace shifters for both. It turned out to be a good one.

There's a whole thread on it here :

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/13829-magura-hydraulic-brake-cut-off-switch.html

It's pretty straightforward with the benefit of hindsight - I'd never worked on brakes before fitting it so there's a lot of newbie questions in there . Also I'd cut off the connector and splice in any longer cabling / wires further away from the switch as it's fiddly to work up there. Gives you more flexibility in the cable routing without putting a strain on the connections doing it that way.

Jeez mate, you had some trouble there !!!

I have Clarke Skeletal Brakes (same as shimano/magura) and have ordered two sensors.



Also found this on bleeding/refilling, looks like you just top up at top res and pump through -

Clarks Cycle Systems

Also quoted from your thread -

'position the pressure switch so that the cable faces downwards". But I think that must just mean when you're bleeding the system to stop air bubbles getting trapped at the aperture in the switch'

I think that means the CABLE face down to prevent water ingress (even though sealed units).

Cheers

 

[Sacko]

I never ran a brake cut off. If it went WOT, my brakes could over power it if need be.