First eBike conversion, helped needed (photos shown)

[Chipstix]

Hi,

I have just joined the forum and this is my first post. Hello all!

I have decided to convert my hard tail mountain bike to an eBike. This is my bike, and I have purchased a Cyclotricity 1000W rear hub motor kit, with 12Ah Frame battery, throttle, display, controller and PAS sensor.

This is the bike



It is a 2012 Revolution Triad 1.0 by Edinburgh Bike Co-Op.

This is the spec
http://www.thebikelist.co.uk/revolution/triad-1-0-2011

I am happy with the install that I am planning (kit has been ordered, not arrived yet), but I am not clear on how to mount the PAS sensor, which is a feature that I really want to have. I knew it would not be a simple install when I bought the kit as I do not have a square taper crank, I have a hollow spine type crank. Please see detailed photos below.

I am looking for suggestions. I am happy to modify the sensor, the bike, use epoxy, dremmel etc and I have access to a machine shop through work (e.g. lathe) if needed.

Thanks in advance, Chris
















uploading images

 

[Ultrafunkula]

This is what you need

http://www.ciclotekstore.eu/b2c/producto/2201027/2/pas-sensor-for-hollotech

 

[Chipstix]

Looks interesting, but no supporting information about how it is fitted? Also I presume it would not be a compatible connector, or are they standard?

 

[Chipstix]

This looks a similar thing with a few more pictures...?

http://www.ebike-solutions.com/en/shop/electronic-accessories/cadence-sensors/hollowtech-ii-cadence-sensor-set.html

 

[Ultrafunkula]

Yep that's the sort of thing you need, it mounts on the right rather than the left, you may need to change the connector but they all come with instructions regarding wiring in

 

[Nealh]

No need to spend any more money wait until you get the kit then show us a pic of the sensor, some sensors are handed and some dual sided. Some sensors are fitted to S/S bracket ( Hollowtech type) that pinches up behind the BB outer bearing and the BB shell and will have the correct wire connector already.
On this one the magnet ring inner diameter has been enlarged with a hole saw so it comfortably sits over the bearings casing.

 

[Chipstix]

Thank you. Will do. I think it will be this one, see page 16/17

http://www.cyclotricity.com/support-files/Cyclotricity Kit Installation Guide 2nd edition.pdf

Apart from being in German, this video has helped me visualise it. Looks like a few special tools are needed to take this crank out!

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[Deleted member 4366]

You don't need anything special. The Cyclotricity one will fit and work. Mount it on the left side and put the magnet disc on backwards (flipped).

You have to remove the sensor from its bracket and fix it back onto the other side of the bracket so that the off-set in the bracket reaches forward instead of backwards. if the fixing holes aren't symmetrical, you have to drill some more:



Next, you have to remove the complete bottom bracket and chuck the spacers that are behind the bearing holders. You might have to thin down the magnet disc a bit, where there's some extra thickness near the centre. Dremmel out the whold to fit over the BB spindle. Here's the end result. I had to bend the bracket a bit to get the clearance between the disc and the sensor:

 

[Nealh]

The one you linked to on page 16/17 looks fine and will fit over the bearing thread and will pinch up to the BB shell when its screwed in. The magnet ring will need the centre carefully enlarged as per the one in my pic.
Nearly all bikes around the world use the standard English/British screw thread for the bottom bracket so whether internal bearing or external bearing type makes no difference.

 

[Chipstix]

Thanks very much guys this is exactly the info I needed

Also according to this thread my crank is self extracting....so no special tools if I understand correctly

http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12693960


Will report back when done!


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[Chipstix]

Hi all,

Well kit has arrived!

But first problem found

I gave cyclotricity the frame dimensions and they advised that the 12Ah frame battery would fit. Well it does, kind of!

Its such a tight squeeze that

a) I will not be able to slide on/off the mount
b) I will not be able to bolt the mount to the frame using the bottle cage screws because of a)
c) I could mount it in some other way (e.g. one bolt, plus cable ties?), but would only be able to charge in situ, which would mean not at work [8miles away]

I need to call Cyclotricity in the morning,

Mulling it over I think I have the following options

1) Try to make it work as above
2) Swap for another battery, perhaps 9Ah is smaller though I lose 1/3 capacity
3) Change to a pannier battery, not as nice rather have the weight central
4) Get seat post battery but is only 7Ah
5) Convert a different bike! I also have a 2007 Specialized Rockhopper Comp. It is a bigger frame (17") but an inferior bike (cable vee brakes and lower grade forks)
6) Swap the frame on my bike to a larger frame

how to screenshot on windows

Feeling a bit gutted at the mo....

 

[Woosh]

if you can return the battery and get another battery, I recommend you do so.

You can use this type of downtube battery:

This one is 36V 12AH right side pull but I think you can get them now in 14AH:

This one is HL battery, capacity is 13AH, 15AH and 17AH:

for spare batteries, visit
http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?batteries

 

[Chipstix]

Mine is a 48V system. I bought the kit from ebikes direct so will discuss with them also


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[Chipstix]

Specific thread to discuss battery options started here

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/looking-for-options-for-48v-frame-battery-for-small-frame.27210/

 

[Chipstix]

Starting to lean towards the pannier rack battery option. It will be tail heavy bike but I think I might struggle to find a compatible frame for the swap. I have no idea what I would search for for compatibility with all the other components that would be transferred over....



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[Deleted member 4366]

Bike frames are pretty standard. At most you'd need a new headset and a bottom bracket spacer. What size frame do you need? I'll look on Ebay for you later if you want. You need the normal tools, like BB tool and crank puller to do the swap. Maybe a hammer and screwdriver to change the headset.

 

[Chipstix]

Thanks, mine is a small size 16 frame. Full spec is at the top of this thread. I guess I will need 17 or 17.5 to be safe. I'm not too concerned about tools or skill required as I have a bike building friend that has offered to help


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[Deleted member 4366]

The key things are that you need a rear disc mount, the cable stop behind the seat-tube to pull the front derailleur up, a 68mm or 73mm BB shell (which is more or less all threaded ones) and a large triangle. Oh yes, and one that will be posted. Ideally, you want one with the seat-pin in, seat-pin clamp and derailleur hanger, otherwise you have extra cost and complication. One with the complete headset is also useful, though your headset can be swapped over as long as the head tube is the same size (semi-integrated is your spec).

There's no cheap ones in that size that aren't collection only at the moment, so keep looking. There's this one at 20" which would be perfect if that was the size you wanted.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/carerra-mtb-frame-/152474115298?hash=item23802a5ce2:g:AhcAAOSwTM5YykEH

have a look anyway to see if one of the collect only ones is near you:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=50&_nkw=mtb+frame&rt=nc

 

[Chipstix]

Thanks Dave - I've decided I will park the frame swap for a future incarnation, perhaps when the battery needs replacing in the future.

For now, I have decided to swap my 12Ah 48V frame battery for the Cyclotricity 48V 12Ah Pannier rack battery which includes the pannier rack and I have checked with Cyclotricity that it will fit my bike. Having already bought the kit, this was my best option to exchange free of charge. The rack looks sturdy, will be able to positioned reasonably forward, houses the controller and will enable me to fit a fit an Ortlieb waterproof pannier bag to carry my work clothes etc.

I will however be following your excellent instructions above for modifying the PAS sensor.....

Cheers, Chris

 

[Chipstix]

Hi All, I've started the conversion. A few questions if I may?!
1) I removed the plastic spacer under the rear wheel brake bolts before transferring the brake disc, is this correct? May be unrelated but the rear wheel seems to be binding I presume on the brake disk as opposed to the free wheel?
2) in confused about the tabbed washers, is this arrangement correct?
3) it looks like the axle is seated low enough in the frame, do you agree?
4) main bolt cover has hole I presume for motor cable but mine runs between disc and frame, I presume this is ok ?

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