First eBike conversion, helped needed (photos shown)

[Chipstix]

The only instructions I can find on cyclotricity website aren't great and not for the rear hub motor kit? Also no printed instructions included...

Hummmmm....based on this article I may have the washer in the wrong place. Also, it seems to suggest that I should be considering a torque arm but there isn't one in the kit or mentioned

http://www.ebikeschool.com/install-hub-motor-washers/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Nealh]

Although the axle looks low enough in the drops outs it needs to go deeper as the AR washers tab also should sit in the drop out. You will need to fit torque arms as well, the single washer and AR can be used as a spacer so if needed either can go on the inside of the drop out.

 

[Chipstix]

Thanks...more questions...

1)So the tabbed torque washer should be 180deg rotated from where it is?

2) I guess I will have to file or dremmel the drops out to get the axle further down? I tapped them with rubber mallet so that is low as they'll go without modifying

3) Is the flat washer in the right place?

4) can you suggest a torque arm that would fit my arrangement shown?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Nealh]

1. Can be fitted as is or rotated 180, those AR washers aren't great and the Bafang ones are a lot better. The one on the hanger side is better on the inside then no need to go into the hanger any deeper. you may get away with out them sitting in at all and rely on a pair of TA's.
2. As they sit now you only need to take a bit out of the 2 bottom corners so they sit down tighter.
3. If you wish put it on the in side of the drop out, it may even centralise the wheel better.
4. On both sides there is M5 ? threaded eyelet which might be ideal to use a fixing point. Cycleezee sell then on Ebay either 12 or 14 mm so order the correct ones and you may be alright with just them.

 

[Chipstix]

When you say hanger side, do you mean do you derailer?

I removed the brake caliper and the wheel is still hanging up if I stop moving the pedals. I think it's rubbing on the smallest ring of the freewheel, so I think I should swap the flat washer to the inside of the drop out . Hopefully that will space out the frame slightly and get some clearance

I found the Cycleezee arms and have emailed them


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Nealh]

Yes derailleur hanger. If you wan to utilise the AR washers then the one on that side will be best on the inside and roated 180 deg , easier to dremmel with hanger removed.

 

[Chipstix]

Dremmelling done, sits deeper.
Also I swapped thicker AR washer to freewheel side inside dropout to give clearance, which seems to have given the space

I've heard back from cycleezee and about to buy a 12mm tq arm. It seems on one side could be sufficient but I decided to get one on each side as 1000w and aluminium frame.

Next issue, my freewheel doesn't seem to be freewheeling? I presume when stopping peddling it should click whilst rotating but instead the chain backs up....any ideas? I just screwed it in to the hub motor from the kit??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That looks like a 14mm axle. Did you measure it?

Normally, the anti-rotation washers go on the inside of your drop-out and the plain washer on the outside.

When you install a hub-motor you first have to sort out your axle spacing on the disc side because the disc needs to line up with the caliper and not touch the chain-stay. When you have that right, look at the other side. the only important thing is that the chain or cassette/freewheel doesn't touch the frame. You add or remove washers to suit.

14mm axles mever go deep enough into the axle even with filing. You need at least one good torque arm, properly anchored. Don't use a jubilee clip on a 2-piece one. They're OK for the one-piece type, but be warned: They often break.

 

[Chipstix]

Ok thanks. I measured with my steel rule. 10mm across flats, 12mm across threads.

Will check disc alignment

My other concern is that the brand new supplied freewheel doesn't seem to be freewheeling. It rotates fine under pedal turning but the chain goes slack when I stop rotating the pedal. All I did to fit it was hand tighten it onto the hub. Can't work out what's wrong with this bit…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Chipstix]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I think you need to measure that axle again. it's 14mm.

This is a 12mm one:

Your freewheel is probably touching the motor at the back. you need a freewheel spacer. It's the same as a bottom bracket spacer.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=10+amp+fuse+wire&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xfreewheel+spacer.TRS0&_nkw=freewheel+spacer&_sacat=0

 

[danielrlee]

I think you need to measure that axle again. it's 14mm.

This is a 12mm one:

This is something that has always puzzled me. My Crystalyte H3540 is specified as having a 14mm axle, is shown in the product schematic as a 14mm axle and looks just like the OP's. However, it measures only 12mm across the threads, takes 12mm washers and 12mm torque arms. I never did find an explanation for the discrepancy.

 

[Woosh]

I think the motor axle of a large DD motors is 14mm x 12mm.
The axle of all the geared hub motors are 12mm x 10mm

 

[Chipstix]

Thanks for making me check !

I don't own a vernier yet, been meaning to buy one. I did measure the existing torque washer and it looks like 14mm. I'll check with cyclotricity and perhaps buy a vernier today

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I think the motor axle of a large DD motors is 14mm x 12mm.
The axle of all the geared hub motors are 12mm x 10mm

14 x 10, not 14 x 12!

 

[Woosh]

d8veh is correct of course.

 

[Nealh]

Your freewheel is probably touching the motor at the back. you need a freewheel spacer. It's the same as a bottom bracket spacer.

Agree with D8veh freewheel is binding on the hub .

 

[Chipstix]

Spoke to Cyclotricity, looks like the freewheel spacer didn't make it into my kit, so their sending one out today for me.

And it is definitely a 14mm axle, thanks @d8veh!! Weird that I measured 12mm on the rule, much better idea to measure the included AR washer.

 

[Benjahmin]

This is exactly why I love my conversions, you learn so much about your bike in the process, then better able to fix it in the future.
Go for it Chipstix, enjoy the process.

 

[Chipstix]

I managed to get the crank off after I figured out that you have to undo the inner collar through accessing the hole in the outer cover. Then as it unscrews it polls the arm of the crank – obvious when you know how it works!

There was only one spacer to remove which is thinner than the sensor ring.

Swapping the sensor to the underside of the brackets was easy and didn't need any drilling.

I modified the magnet ring as per the instructions, The dremmel tool that I borrowed was great







free image host

2 concerns that I have:

1) Given that if put more thickness on the crank than I took off with the single spacer, will it be OK when I tighten it all down (i.e. thread engagement). I did thin the magnet wheel, but even just the sensor ring was thicker than the spacer so its all extra to what was there before
2) Is my sensor close enough to the magnets? I notice there are 3 pins on the connector, perhaps I could use a multimeter to see if a switch is closing when the wheel moves past? Might be able to bend it a bit, not sure...






image uploading