First eBike conversion, helped needed (photos shown)

[Deleted member 4366]

The gap between the magnets and the sensor will probably be OK. You can't test it with a meter because it needs to be powered. You need to chech that the disc is the right way up before you reassemble, which means that you have to power up the controller and check that the motor goes when you pedal.

I'm not sure that you have enough spline for the pedal. the Hollowtech ones just fit because you can remove spacers from both sides . What's holding the axle in, or does it slide from side to side? Did you take the spacer out of the other side?

 

[Chipstix]

Ok all clear on the magnet ring.

There is still a spacer on the other side which will buy me another mm or so.

I hope this is enough? Otherwise I could remove the sensor ring side bearing and have one mm turned off the back of it by a friend with a lathe?

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[Deleted member 4366]

When it's all done, there's a possibility that you might lose your inner chainring if the derailleur runs out of range. That's nothing to worry about because you won't need it when you have a motor to help.

 

[Chipstix]

firstly, I want to say thank you all for your continued support! Having never done more on a bicycle than change an inner tube, this is a learning curve for me! I'm more used to working on motorbikes (and car servicing)

Before spacer removed


after spacer removed, forgot to put the magnet disc on....

This was how much thread engagement without the magnet disc...

Then remembered the disc!

Seemed to screw down OK, and the crank arm wasn't wobbling, felt firm....

This is how deep it is screwed in....

The cover cap also went on OK, better than flush....(no pic)

As you predicted, the derailler is now slightly misalighed and the chain is rubbing, but I haven't adjusted it yet....

How do I adjust it to see if I can offset the whole movement by 2 mm or so to compensate for removing the spacer? I did manage to get the chain to run onto the largest ring just with the handlebar controls, so perhaps that is a good sign.

This is the controls end...


Thanks!

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[Deleted member 4366]

Front derailleur is the same as the back one. There's 2 screws that set the ends of adjustment.

• Let the shifterer right out; loosen the cable clamp screw;
• set the position of the derailleur with the end-stop screw;
• screw in any cable adjusters;
• pull the end of the cable until it's just under tension and clamp it with the screw;
• use the shifter to pull the chain onto the next ring and use the cable adjuster to bring the derailleur into the correct position;
• shift onto the next chainring and set the other end-stop screw to stop it going too far.

 

[Chipstix]

I think I have managed to adjust it reasonably well for now, will have another look at the end when everything else is done. I had to preload the derailer with the cable to get it to the right to start position.

I need to get in touch with cyclotricity again because I thought that the controller box would fit inside the pannier controller enclosure, but it is much too big. So this is a bit confusing...

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[Phil Fouracre]

Hi, just found this thread, haven't looked at this site for a while. I've fitted a couple of Cyclotricity front wheel kits, and a couple of rears on full suss mtbs, despite Cyclotricity saying that they weren't sure they would work!
Both were successful, although I had to do some mods, so I sympathise with your problems. If I'd seen it earlier I would have made a couple of suggestions that might have helped
I had the same problems with battery size, and not enough space in the frame, went for a Topeak seat post carrier dismantled it and fitted the battery on that, worked great.
Machined out the magnetic disc to fit over the shoulder of the pedal, and resined it in position, you might find that the gap between the sensor and disc is too great, mine's about 1mm.
Don't know which freewheel you have, but, I fitted the ones they supplied, which were 7 speed, didn't really appreciate the importance of loosing the two highest gears. Binned that after a very short time! And bought a couple of Sunrace 9 speed free wheels on the net, what a difference! Had to make spacers though, to allow freewheel to work correctly.
Hope you get everything working satisfactorily, got to agree that it is definitely 'a learning curve'! Fun though.

Almost forgot: had a bit of problem on first, front wheel kits, not knowing about torque arms, almost managed to spread the dropouts!! Nasty surprise - saved when I had a trawl around the net, found out all about them, and ended up buying them from Panda bikes, would never fit any motor without them. Put two on each motor, ott, but......!

 

[Chipstix]

I'm getting there with the help of the folks on this forum but it hasn't been plain sailing!

I agree the magnet disc looks a bit too far, will test it and may need a new bracket or other mod. Shame it's such a hassle for non square tapes cranks.

Freewheel spacer on the way...

Perplexed that controller way too big for controller enclosure !

Torque arms from cycleeeze on the way...

Getting there....

 

[Nealh]

An other option if the disc is to far from the sensor is to get some small 3mm dia x 2 mm magnets off ebay and just add more to the disc.
When my bbs wheel spd sensor fitting snaped I managed to do a temp fix but the gap was too great so an extra magnet on the wheel magnet bridged the gap.

 

[Phil Fouracre]

Made new brackets for ours, with lateral adjustment, probably the easiest way to go. Then you've got very fine adjustment - I reckon magnets would be OK, but, with a much bigger gap to fill?

 

[Chipstix]

Made new brackets for ours, with lateral adjustment, probably the easiest way to go. Then you've got very fine adjustment - I reckon magnets would be OK, but, with a much bigger gap to fill?

Sounds like a good idea..... don't suppose you have a spare one left by any chance?! ;-)

 

[Chipstix]

I spoke to Ian @ Cyclotricity....

the gap I have may be OK, but its at the limit, I'll have to test it.

Ian suggested for me to replace the 2mm spacer on the driven side as there should be ample thread/spline engagement with the 1mm spacer on the non-driven side being swapped for the PAS sensor run and magnet disc. This will resolve the front mech derailer alignment issue.

He also confirmed that the new 48V 1000W controllers don't fit in the pannier rack, so it will go in the seat post bag and connect into the rack.

Hopefully the freewheel spacer and torque arms will arrive today and I can progress things a little this evening....

 

[Phil Fouracre]

Sorry no spare! Afraid I made it sound more hi tech than it was! Just took the sensor off of the supplied mounting ring and bent a strip of thin aluminium into an L shape. Drilled the bottom of it to fit sensor and laid the back along the bottom of the frame, below the crank. Two zip ties, and job done

 

[Chipstix]

Well some progress tonight, good news and less good news....

Good news: bent the PAS sensor bracket, and I think it will be a good gap distance now, I think it should be close enough.

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Less good news, still waiting for my freewheel spacer to turn up, but in the meantime removed the wheel, and tried to remove the freewheel but of course I can't because I unwind it and it ratchets around. I really wish Cyclotricity had either a) assembled it or b) included the spacer with clear instructions!

It looks like a need a tool to remove it, unless anyone has a tip?!

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[Deleted member 4366]

You already have the freewheel spacer. You removed two from your bottom bracket.

You need a freewheel tool with a hole in it bigger than 14mm. Most have small holes. I have them for £3 plus postage if you get stuck.

 

[Chipstix]

Thanks d8veh, the tool arrived today and it was just the job!


I've now got the wheel mounted and it freewheels, I have sorted out the spacers and after lots of trial and error, the torque arm is also fitted on one side (I will copy to the other side)

Next problem, at one point I operated the rear brake lever by accident when the caliper was not fitted. I can get the caliper onto the disc, but it is dragging badly. I need to separate it somehow?

I have a caliper piston push back kit for cars and motorbikes but it may be too big. I have tried with plastic wedge/bar, and with flat head screwdriver, but may need to take out the pads? Any tips?!

.....

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It might go back a lot easier if you remove the reservoir fill screw or cover so that the oil can move back up the tube.

 

[aardvark5]

Just found this thread and I have two Cyclotricity kits.
After about a month I stopped using PAS & computer because the throttle has a 'sweet spot' on it where you can put it on a little bit but it won't move the bike but as soon as you move the motor kicks in.
After 4 years I know exactly where to put the throttle so I disabled PAS & computer.
I also took the brake sensors off because they weren't needed, as soon as you stop pedaling the motor stops.

 

[Chipstix]

I managed to get the pads out and push the pistons right back (I believe), I followed the Avid Juicy 3 manual to recentre the pads. (Pump and hold lever with caliper side bolts loosened then tighten down whilst holding the lever. And repeated several times.

I checked and the disc is not warped.

It's better but still dragging. I wonder if the plain washer inside the dropout has moved the disc enough that it's rubbing one pad? Perhaps it will correct itself through wear?!

I suppose I could add washers to shim the caliper 1mm from the frame mount...

Having said all that it's a different wheel so who knows if the disc is in a different lateral position than before ??

It ended up a bit better thank this vid. Maybe 2 seconds freewheeling before stopping...

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[Deleted member 4366]

You should always do your motor spacing on the disc side first. Remove the two screws that hold the caliper to the adapter so that you can see where the threaded holes line up with the slots, then add/remove washers until the holes are in the middle of the slot.. In my experience, you normally need to add one standard 12mm plain washer between the motor and the anti-rotation washer.