First eBike conversion, helped needed (photos shown)

[Chipstix]

Hi there, thanks that explanation is helpful. In fact I am generally using PAS3 and only PAS4 when the road is very flat and smooth. Also by significantly changing the gearing, I am now adding a good amount of effort myself through pedalling . My comments above where when I was simply testing out the limitations of the bike, I think the state of charge was already somewhat depleted, and I was experiencing the cut out when pulling away from work just playing with the maximum power output. Also, I've actually never use the thumb throttle, I pull away peddling, with the pedal assist kicking in. I'm not quite sure at what point in this discussion I got the reputation of the battery abuser! Because I am an engineer by profession, I am experimenting with my new toy

I only really have a few hopes firstly that I'll be to do a round trip on one charge (15miles), secondly that I will be able to travel about 20 mph, as the case for buying this a bike was to get to work in a certain amount of time. Finally, that the battery health will survive for at least a year given that this is probably about 50 roundtrips, I hope it will last longer than that


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[Chipstix]

Yes, a few of my friends have suggested it's in the area of a motorbike! Attached is a picture of my other 'powered two wheeler'. This one certainly is a motorbike however a bit more restricted in where I can actually ride it [emoji3]


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[Woosh]

. I'm not quite sure at what point in this discussion I got the reputation of the battery abuser!

FWIW, I don't think you are.

 

[Chipstix]

The 1.5C calculation guideline is helpful. It feels like I should have been sold a higher capacity battery for my 1000w kit, e.g. 16Ah battery

This is the warranty information, perhaps I should consider paying £100 to extend it to 2 years…it includes range drop to under 6 miles

http://cyclotricity.com/tcs-and-warranty/


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[Woosh]

it includes range drop to under 6 miles

I read the T&Cs, the 6 miles is for when you use it in pedal assist mode.
You battery is supposed to be good for about 45 miles on legal pedal assist.
6 miles range means that your battery would have lost 85% of its original capacity before you can claim for the battery.

 

[Chipstix]

I read the T&Cs, the 6 miles is for when you use it in pedal assist mode.
You battery is supposed to be good for about 45 miles on legal pedal assist.
6 miles range means that your battery would have lost 85% of its original capacity before you can claim for the battery.

I am using it in pedal assist mode. I do not use the thumb throttle. As I also keep stating, I have purchased a 1000w kit and therefore I firmly believe that the one year warranty should apply to a reasonable battery condition after one year of use in the unrestricted condition that I have purchased the kit. Cyclotricity told me that unrestricted it will only do around 15-17 miles (btw when I asked before purchase I was told 30 miles was the 1000w range but never mind), which gets me to work and back, if I were to 'kill' the battery it's easy to imagine it having a range of less than 7.5 miles. If this were to happen I wouldn't even make it to work. At this point I would be pursuing a warranty claim, as I clearly specified my needs before purchasing and the equipment would not be fit for purpose. Anyway as I said needs more testing - my last journey was 25 minutes but felt too fast and urgent, I couldn't even look at the beautiful countryside as I was concentrating so hard on the road surface in some sections avoiding farm track potholes

I wonder if I can restrict the controller to 500 W, I'll have to ask. I guess that would be different from just setting PAS3


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[Deleted member 4366]

I wonder if I can restrict the controller to 500 W, I'll have to ask. I guess that would be different from just setting PAS3

Your controller uses current control, so each PAS level is a different power level. If you don't want to use full power, don't switch it to level 5 and don't use the throttle. The throttle is a speed controller, so you get full power when you open it, which over-rides the PAS setting.

 

[Woosh]

Chipstix only needs to have a better battery, something like 12S5P with Samsung 30Q will do it.

 

[Chipstix]

Chipstix only needs to have a better battery, something like 12S5P with Samsung 30Q will do it.

And how much would that cost out of interest? I'm paying £35 x 12 months for the full kit above. Only paid the first month so far.


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[Woosh]

it's about £50 more than your 48V 12AH battery with Samsung 29E cells.
It is just a theoretical solution if I were to supply the battery with a 1000W kit.
NealH has his battery done with Samsung 30Q - he may give his view here later.

You can find out a lot more about the difference between 29E and 30Q cells in this thread by NealH:
http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/bga-reworking-for-batteries.27494/
Basically, Samsung 29E has 7A maximum continuous discharge (I only pull 5 x 4A max out of 10S5P on my Big Bears), the Samsung 30Q has 15A maximum continuous discharge. The 30Q has 14 milliohms internal resistance, the 29E 30 milliohms.
Your controller can pull 30A continuously on throttle or assist 5.
I suggest an array of 12S5P on 30Q, you can pull 30A (5 x 6A) easily from a maximum 75A (5 x 15A) without much sag. To fit your case, you may scale down to 12S4P (48 cells), you can still comfortably pull 30A out of 60A max.

 

[Nealh]

I have no batteries with the 30Q's must be confusing me with Redcup and his Greenway with new 30Q battery.

I'm currently waiting for my Boston cell pack which Jimmy is making up for my Swizzbee and also my 18650 kits from Fruzend which I will probably go with GA cells.