Bafang reliability (my experience - OVERWHLMINGLY POSITIVE!)

Az.

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They also add features for those on here that believe adding amps is legal and create the “fastest legal ebike”,
That makes little sense as legal assisted speed limit is 25m/h

That Bosch have the gall to put a “legal” sticker on them and then claim the most outrageous torque from “250watts continuous “is the icing on the cake. Extracting the urine !
It is continuous rated power as specified by manufacturer to be precise or rated power for short. If you say continuous 250W, people can come to wrong conclusions and think motor is providing 250W all the time - which is not true.
 

Ghost1951

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to me there is no comparison between Bosch and Bafang for those that keep things, Bosch make throwaway stuff, Bafang sell spare parts.
That Bosch have the gall to put a “legal” sticker on them and then claim the most outrageous torque from “250watts continuous “is the icing on the cake. Extracting the urine !
A bit like the VW 'dieselgate' scandal. Do tests and then publish whatever lies you like.

As for OSF and replacing the original firmware, I would need a lot of convincing that I would not brick the thing.
 

saneagle

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I don’t know if that’s deliberate misinformation, ignorance or just a terminology difference.

I’ve been running my Baf bb’s like this for years, my shared path mode has no pas at all till I push “throttle”, then I get variable pas according to to torque given by my thumb with max of 125watts.The throttle does nothing without pedalling so completely passes your “Bobby Test” where they lift wheel and press trigger.
Of course original Bafang BB firmware doesn’t do this, nor does SOFTWARE allow you much. Clunky at best.

OSF is another story, changing the FIRMWARE gives you a whole lot more, google is your friend, search the sphere, at least two different OSF downloads that I know of.

I’m not a geek, I don’t write code, just use what others create.
They also add features for those on here that believe adding amps is legal and create the “fastest legal ebike”, an oxymoron if ever there was one. Temp cut out is one, instead of motor or controller cooking when they overdo it, it will reduce current before it goes bang. Keeping current limits at Bafangish specs make this unnecessary in my experience, but rider ability (correct gear etc) is not universal so hire bikes probably need it.

Shame OP deleted his post , to me there is no comparison between Bosch and Bafang for those that keep things, Bosch make throwaway stuff, Bafang sell spare parts.
That Bosch have the gall to put a “legal” sticker on them and then claim the most outrageous torque from “250watts continuous “is the icing on the cake. Extracting the urine !
If you've done this modification, why don't you share it? Which firmware did you use and which exact settings?
 

Saracen

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Aug 24, 2023
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Except he doesn't have BBS01. He has BBSHD.
I completely understand why professionals don't want to have anything to do with illegal conversions.
Why not legal ones, Summit cycles won't even change my brake pads

IMG_1617.JPG
 

guerney

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OSF is another story, changing the FIRMWARE gives you a whole lot more, google is your friend, search the sphere, at least two different OSF downloads that I know of.
There's one OSF firmware replacement project I am aware of for BBSHD and BBS02B - the same project also replaces TSDZ2 firmware, but there's nothing for the BBS01B...

https://github.com/danielnilsson9/bbs-fw

...to make this possible:

It's a shame you can't make the throttle dependent on pedalling in the settings, and I'm surprised that it wasn'tadded as a feature in the OSF. That's another one up to hub-motors with KT controllers. The throttle is really useful as an instant max power boost. It saves so much messing about.
However, don't you have to be able to turn the pedals to activate the PAS which enables the option of concurrent throttle? Provided you stop on a low gear, it's easy to get moving on my throttleless bike. After unanticipated stops on level road, I've managed to activate the PAS on my highest gear 52T>11T, by standing on the pedals. Mind you, I rarely stray from Level 9, which is 100% "Keep current" at 18A (648W), which is lot driving a 20" wheel. Of course I'd prefer a legal throttle, but Sunak has killed that hope off with his early resignation. I expect this DaFt consultation has now been kicked into the long grass. I think Labour is more likely to focus on public transport.

 
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saneagle

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There's one OSF firmware replacement project I am aware of for BBSHD and BBS02B - the same project also replaces TSDZ2 firmware, but there's nothing for the BBS01B...

https://github.com/danielnilsson9/bbs-fw

...to make this possible:



However, don't you have to be able to turn the pedals to activate the PAS which enables the option of concurrent throttle? Provided you stop on a low gear, it's easy to get moving on my throttleless bike. After unanticipated stops on level road, I've managed to activate the PAS on my highest gear 52T>11T, by standing on the pedals. Mind you, I rarely stray from Level 9, which is 100% "Keep current" at 18A (648W), which is lot driving a 20" wheel. Of course I'd prefer a legal throttle, but Sunak has killed that hope off with his early resignation. I expect this DaFt consultation has now been kicked into the long grass. I think Labour is more likely to focus on public transport.

What do you mean by concurrent throttle? The only thing that matters for legal compliance is whether its operation is dependent on pedalling or independent. Do you have a throttle, and is it dependent?

Still waiting for Voltsnamps to give details of which firmware and settings give a legally compliant throttle operation.
 
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guerney

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What do you mean by concurrent throttle? The only thing that matters for legal compliance is whether its operation is dependent on pedalling or independent. Do you have a throttle, and is it dependent?
Nope, no throttle because there's no way to make it legal. The throttle operates independently of pedal assist, can't be made to operate concurrently exclusively with PAS on the BBS01B. There's no OSF fix for the BBS01B. Ideally, I want the non-pedalling throttle speed limited to UK legal 6km/h, until pedal assist, at which point the throttle's speed limit with pedalling is increased to the UK legal 25km/h speed limit. But as I said, I'm quite happy without a throttle.
 
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saneagle

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Nope, no throttle because there's no way to make it legal. The throttle operates independently of pedal assist, can't be made to operate concurrently exclusively with PAS on the BBS01B. There's no OSF fix. Ideally, I want the non-pedalling throttle speed limited to UK legal 6km/h, until pedal assist, at which point the throttle's speed limit with pedalling is increased to the UK legal 25km/h speed limit. But as I said, I'm quite happy without a throttle.
This was my belief, but Voltsnamps says that's misinformation. He will provide details to show how it can be done.
I don’t know if that’s deliberate misinformation, ignorance or just a terminology difference.
 

guerney

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This was my belief, but Voltsnamps says that's misinformation. He will provide details to show how it can be done.
That dude's probably got BBSHDs and BBS02Bs. OSF for those motors is relatively new:

 
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saneagle

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That dude's probably got BBSHDs and BBS02Bs. OSF for those motors is relatively new:

I've been through all that stuff and just about every forum post discussing it, but I don't find anywhere someone that says they have a legally operating throttle or anyone saying how to do it. We must await the info from Voltsnamps. He will explain.
 

Saracen

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You should have asked them.

It is easy to change brake pads. Watch some YouTube tutorials and do it yourself.

I did I wanted a full service, pads, cables, cassette, chain, brake bleed, they said "We do not work on any bike that has been converted"
 

Az.

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I did I wanted a full service, pads, cables, cassette, chain, brake bleed, they said "We do not work on any bike that has been converted"
Sorry to hear that. Strange policy they have.

You are a cycling enthusiast now Saracen. You must learn how to do some basic maintenance. Probably most of what you asked is not really needed. Mechanic will just take free money.

Why would you need cables changed?
 
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Saracen

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Sorry to hear that. Strange policy they have.

You are a cycling enthusiast now Saracen. You must learn how to do some basic maintenance. Probably most of what you asked is not really needed. Mechanic will just take free money.

Why would you need cables changed?

YOU are 100% right it is just my fear of taking something apart and buggering it up.

I did change the pads, again you are 100% right I must learn to do the chain I do occasionally do a 38 mile round trip to aberystwyth, so I will be buggered if it goes.

GOOD point, because I have always been told that when changing the cassette, you also change the chain and vice versa and to be safe change the cable also !

I am unable (autism) to follow youtube videos, so OK I will do it.
 
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matthewslack

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YOU are 100% right it is just my fear of taking something apart and buggering it up.

I did change the pads, again you are 100% right I must learn to do the chain I do occasionally do a 38 mile round trip to aberystwyth, so I will be buggered if it goes.

GOOD point, because I have always been told that when changing the cassette, you also change the chain and vice versa and to be safe change the cable also !

I am unable (autism) to follow youtube videos, so OK I will do it.
You can see what's involved in changing the chain by buying a new one and looking at what arrives. Practice putting the quick link together, and separating it, and that's one big step under your control.

One step at a time, practise first, that's how I muddle along.
 

Az.

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YOU are 100% right it is just my fear of taking something apart and buggering it up.
You have two bikes. In unlikely scenario when something go wrong, you can use one and take another to mechanic later.

I must learn to do the chain I do occasionally do a 38 mile round trip to aberystwyth, so I will be buggered if it goes.
It is easy when you have right tools. What you need is a quick link with you all the time. Anticipate what can go wrong on a trip like that and take stuff with you to quick fix common faults. Spare inner tube, quick link, pump etc.

GOOD point, because I have always been told that when changing the cassette, you also change the chain and vice versa and to be safe change the cable also !
No, you don't always change chain and cassette together.
What cable are you talking about? I have never changed any cables during routine maintenance.

I am unable (autism) to follow youtube videos, so OK I will do it.
Watch few. It helps.
Or better check if there is a bike charity nearby. They organize courses and teach bike maintenance.

You can buy rubbish cheap bike and train on it.
 

Nealh

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He's fallen in to the mid drive trap of believing all drive components need changing every 100 miles or once a week :p .

One thing us proper hub drive users don't think of until at least 5k of riding and then it is only the brake pads that need changing, as it is said no one or few opt to try a proper decent hub with a 44/48v batteyr and a KT set up.

With hub drive one has no worries of chain snapping or gear teeth wear and no need to bother adding bits or trying to water proof motors to prevent controllers or motors frying.
 
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Saracen

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You have two bikes. In unlikely scenario when something go wrong, you can use one and take another to mechanic later.

Done that, one is in for repair now under guarantee

It is easy when you have right tools. What you need is a quick link with you all the time. Anticipate what can go wrong on a trip like that and take stuff with you to quick fix common faults. Spare inner tube, quick link, pump etc.

As for punctures that is one thing I am 100% OK on :)

No, you don't always change chain and cassette together.
What cable are you talking about? I have never changed any cables during routine maintenance.

Gear cable, I was told better to replace as they are cheap

Watch few. It helps.
Or better check if there is a bike charity nearby. They organize courses and teach bike maintenance.

You can buy rubbish cheap bike and train on it.

Not a bad idea :)
 

Ghost1951

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On the Bafang crank drive reliability thing, I had to curtail my planned ride with the GF this morning when my motor started creaking. I knew what it was pretty quickly after checking the tightness of the nearside pedal arm. That was fine and tightening it didn't improve the creaking noise. It was the big castellated nut that holds the Bafang motor in the bottom bracket. So, we shortened our ride and went back to her place where I re-tightened it with a hammer and blunt cold chisel. I managed to get a quarter turn on it with about six hits. Going nowhere now - for a while at least. Even done up tight, they don't stay tight for more than about 800 miles. This is the second time I have had to intervene with this. No biggie, as long as you have a decent sized hammer with you on the road....
 

guerney

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On the Bafang crank drive reliability thing, I had to curtail my planned ride with the GF this morning when my motor started creaking. I knew what it was pretty quickly after checking the tightness of the nearside pedal arm. That was fine and tightening it didn't improve the creaking noise. It was the big castellated nut that holds the Bafang motor in the bottom bracket. So, we shortened our ride and went back to her place where I re-tightened it with a hammer and blunt cold chisel. I managed to get a quarter turn on it with about six hits. Going nowhere now - for a while at least. Even done up tight, they don't stay tight for more than about 800 miles. This is the second time I have had to intervene with this. No biggie, as long as you have a decent sized hammer with you on the road....
I got progressively more brutal with the tightening of that nut combo, to the point where it hasn't needed tightening for over three years. Both nuts have to be tightened, the one underneath tightened most.