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Well, you should have really mentioned that first :p In that case, you're in uncharted territory. You'll have to try it and tell us if it works :D

Controllers have no way of actually measuring phase current (which is what I presume you mean by "motor" current) unlike battery current - it's all an estimation based on linear interpollation. You might think the controller is limiting phase amps to 20a but in reality, especially on a low...

Anything over 650w and the clutch slipped and the motor got to hot. Is your battery 45v fully charged? Or is it 50.2v (12s lipo)? If it's 50v, then that's approx 13amps peak. I'm suprised your tongxin is still going @ 20amps - that's 900watts @ 45v. How long have you been running it...

I do use ride trackers but I ensure the ride doesn't start or end until I'm 400m from my house and the same at the other end (usually work). Just common sense. Same with facebook - one of my friends posted "last day at work then off with the family for a weeks holiday to Spain". Grats on...

Same here - Halls all tested ok. Ran on a sensorless controller but rugh - but I thin the Cutes are like that sensorless anyway. No big deal - already had a spare so simple 20 min job to swap the innards. Still debating building a BPM into a front wheel ;-)

I've been known to fake "exertion" - i.e. pretend to be out of breath, hot, sweaty etc on occasion :-)

Now, are you wondering I needed to take this motor apart? Hmm, I might have to drop the wattage on the next motor. Although I not sure it's failure was entirely caused by wattage. It happened a day after I took a "short cut" across some seemingly looking smooth grass, only to find it was...

It's funny you've made this thread as I've just made myself a tool for this very purpose! My cover seemed rather tight so drill 1/2" steel stock. On of the holes is slighty off but I'm not drilling it again! Remove two screws. I like to remove the centre lock nut as well. Insert...

Fastest passenger steam train in the UK = 126mph, the Mallard. Fastest passenger train on the same line = 162mph, Intercity 225. So only a 29% improvement.

I saw more ebikes on my holiday in Bulgaria than I've ever seen in the UK. As for general car - very upmarket, including alot of sportcars (Lambos, Ferraris etc) - but then I was stayign in an area where 90% of the hotels are owned by the Russin maffia ;-)

Ok, so a Samsung S3 2100mah battery is 36g in weight. You'd need 14.28 batteries to equal the voltage/capacity of the Lipos mentioned in my post - so 14.28 *0.036 - 514 grams - 286g less than the lipos. However, the Samsung battery is only rated for a max discharge of 1c. To equal the 70c...

I can already start my Westfield with a couple of paralled 3s lipo packs. Weight of 2 3s 5ah packs = 800g Weight of 12v 44ah lead acid battery = 12.7kg

Looks really slow to me! I've found that as my speed increases, the incidence of left hooking and close overtakes decreases - drivers just stay behind. I then just have to concentrate on my sixth sense indicating whether that car sat at the side road is about to pull out on me.

Evidently not. I'm sure if she'd have realised how dangerous it was she wouldn't have got into that situation.

Yes - don't buy an electric scooter. If you want to carry more gear get one of these and add a good front motor kit instead.

Are you anywhere near Blackpool? I'll happily take a look at it for you.

I had one of them but the wiring was terrible - if you get the chance unscrew it and take a look at where the wires join the circuit board and resolder them. I've now got one of these instead - can use the same battery pack.

The Q11 motors are direct drive - have a think if that's what you really want.

Nonsense. In the grand scheme of things cycling isn't really any more dangerous than walking. http://cyclinginfo.co.uk/blog/323/cycling/how-dangerous-is-cycling/

-4c and about -12c in the windchill - which feels even colder @ 25mph ;-)