Search results

The switch is off of ebay, and just cuts the signal wire from the PAS sensor. I’ve left the power to the sensor intact.

Not to everyone’s taste, but I’ve now got a handlebar switch that turns off the PAS sensor. I find that the motor kicks in when I just want to turn the pedals for stability, and also my help-needs are more subtle than a basic help setting on the display. This also allows me to jump easily...

Hi Solarbake. Have you opened a Swytch Max battery pack? I’m guessing the the front panel prises out of the hard rubber case surround?

I can see the sense in all the warnings of consequences if external balance wires get shorted out. Do the wires actually need to appear outside the cell pack? Can the pack case not feature chassis connector of some sort? Time was when banana sockets were used - but I’m not suggesting those in...

Bear with me, I’m trying to get to grips with posting a picture on the forum!

My wife took a little tumble while we were out riding (motorist not giving any room). Her spare Swytch pack was in her pannier and may have taken a hit, so I’m thinking that it needs more protection - although to be fair, the Swytch pack is looks very rugged. Just bought two padded zip-up cases...

Yes, if I were to rebuild a pack I think that I’d like some insight as to what was going on inside, and also the ability to influence the balance proactively. I can see reasoning both ways but personally I‘m rather a micro-manager with my things, so it would suit me to bring the sense wires out...

I’ll take a look. Not to buy - just understand what technologies are available - thanks.

Thanks both for your replies. Don’t fix what ain’t broken then! I accept that safety is uppermost, and simplicity is great.

I can’t help but feel we’re missing a trick here. RC model battery packs tend to be smaller and simpler but the sense wires from each cell come to the outside world. You know the state of each cell without busting the pack apart. I can see that having (say) 40 cells in a pack you wouldn’t want...

I use them once or twice a week, so not planning a long term store just yet. I charge them fully just before use, so I guess they generally should balance up ok if I store them for two or three days at 36 - 38v. Thanks all for the advice - gratefully received! This is a great forum.

So I’ve just been for a ride, and both my packs are 36v(ish). I was just going to give them 30 minutes on the charger to get them to around 38v, and store them. From what you say Saneagle, I’ll be wiser to charge them fully before putting them away - even though a 38v storage would be less...

Hi Peter. I use the Max battery packs. I’m not sure what cells are in there, but probably fewer sets in parallel as I have less capacity. Just wondering how good the BMS is at keeping them all balanced.

Hi all. I don’t like owning anything “technical” without knowing how it works. My Swytch batteries are maximum 42v fully-charged, 30v discharged. This leads me to believe I’ve got a chain (or multiple chains) of 10 cells in series. When I used to to RC models the battery packs had balancing...

Surprised to see that with a measured 38v at the output pins, that the battery status on the battery still showed all five LEDs lit. Swytch users - don’t believe those LEDs!

Didn’t wrap up my thinking well in my last post! My logic is that the battery is providing the power ok, the controller is running, and the leds are showing what looks like diagnostic information connected with wheel rotation. So Im thinking the controller doesn’t like the wheel for some reason...

Looking at the video, the leds makes me think the microprocessor in the controller is still running. You say the battery is well charged, but the display shows two pips up from empty. Makes me think that the controller is failing its startup routine, and showing some diagnostics?

Thanks all. It leads me on to a follow-up question. What gauge of wire! Thinking of 14 SWG silicone twin to go from front to back of the bike. That should be enough do you think?

Thanks Saneagle. Yes, they look the business. Are the XT60 connectors on eBay ok? That’s my usual place of purchase!

I’m at the stage where I would like to standardise on a specific connector for my various 36v packs (Swytch/Makita/whatever). Attributes I can think of, are high current, polarity sensitive, waterproof, and safe. I’m considering the Amass Deans T connector which is rated at 36A. Is that a good...